strange problem
#13
I've already done this. When I torqued the nut it was a gnatsass to far for the cotter pin, I backed it a tiny bit, could that do it. I know that's a no-no but it seemed like the other way would be way to much.
#14
That's what you're supposed to do if you torque the nut to 14 foot pounds and the cotter pin doesn't line up. Just back off the nut until it does. Ohm out the gray and brown wire for the awd coil on this side. Should show a resistance of around 25 ohms or so. If it ohms out ok,power is going to the gray wire,then yes tear it back down and inspect the face of the coil sleeve and the inner strut pole. These are the two places the armature plate rides against. If either are damaged/ground down or out of alignment with each other,the armature may not get a good magnetic pull.
#16
Re-did the grounds just to make sure, took right side apart, changed bearings cause of a little pitting probly been ok, seated races good. It now stays locked in 4wd. I think the atv gods are messing with me. Tomorrow re-check torque, I'm getting pretty fast at taking it apart lol.
#20
Seems every year the manuals say a little different on hub nut torque. Some manuals show a variance with 144 inch pounds(12ft pounds) being max. Later models show a first stage torque of 165 inch pounds(around 14 ft pounds) then a second stage torque of 124 inch pounds(10 ft pounds). I said to heck with it and did it my way. I always just preloaded the bearings to 15 foot pounds,backed off 1/2 turn and split the difference between 165 and 124 inch pounds. Around 12 ft pounds.



I posted 14 foot pounds,but meant 12 foot pounds on the hub nut.