HI Old Polaris Tech,
Well the saga continues. So it looks like the the TBAP sensor didnt fix the problem but it did make things a little more interesting. It is no longer throwing up codes 41 and 45 which it has been doing. After about an hour of running it still hasnt put up the codes. This is something that it did right away before replacing the sensor. I do feel now that the sensor was bad.

Now my attention is focused on the TPS sensor. Am i going in the right direction? I read a post of your back from what i believe was about 5 years ago and you mentioned that you have seen the tps bad/needing adjustment without putting up a code. The most logical thing to me seems to start checking it out. Can you give me some more guidance? How would you proceed? Am I even on the right track?

Just to recap:
Fuel pump replaced
fuel filter replaced
TBAP harness replaced
All wiring from harness to termination replaced and/or checked for continuity
TBAP sensor replaced
No cracks in the rummber boots at throttle body
Spark Plugs replaced
No codes being indicated
idles really rough around 1000 rpms, occassionally dies

 

HI Old Polaris Tech,
Well the saga continues. So it looks like the the TBAP sensor didnt fix the problem but it did make things a little more interesting. It is no longer throwing up codes 41 and 45 which it has been doing. After about an hour of running it still hasnt put up the codes. This is something that it did right away before replacing the sensor. I do feel now that the sensor was bad.

Now my attention is focused on the TPS sensor. Am i going in the right direction? I read a post of your back from what i believe was about 5 years ago and you mentioned that you have seen the tps bad/needing adjustment without putting up a code. The most logical thing to me seems to start checking it out. Can you give me some more guidance? How would you proceed? Am I even on the right track?

Just to recap:
Fuel pump replaced
fuel filter replaced
TBAP harness replaced
All wiring from harness to termination replaced and/or checked for continuity
TBAP sensor replaced
No cracks in the rummber boots at throttle body
Spark Plugs replaced
No codes being indicated
idles really rough around 1000 rpms, occassionally dies

 

Don't touch the tps setting without having the correct harness kit. Throttle cable has to be loosened,many cases best to remove from the butterfly,special idle adjuster screw has to be loosened with a "D" driver to where it's not touching the butterfly,then tps screws are loosened and tps moved to base line vdc and screws tightened. Sometimes takes a bit to get this spot on as tightning the two screws will often cause the vdc to jump and has to be adjusted again. Once set,you adjust to final vdc setting with the idle adjust screw. I've seen too many people screw up tps sensor springs trying to adjust these by "ear" Polaris or Arctic Cat TPS Adjustment Tool or Test Pigtail | eBay In a lot of cases cheaper to let the dealer set the tps.
Plus the tps wiring can do the same as the tbap and cause problems. Kits for them are on otb also.

 

Okay old poalris Tech,
I went ahead and took my sportsman to the dealership to have them adjust the TPS sensor and I am glad I did. they had it done in a day and didnt really cost me too much. I was prepared for the worst. I have put about 60 miles on it since the adjustment and it runs just as it should. Its nice to have my garage back in order. thank you for all of your input.

Now that I have finally had some time to put a few miles on it, I noticed that it has a very strong odor of fuel. I wasn't sure at first if it was leaking or just normal when after about the 50th mile I noticed that the fuel was coming out of the tank tube and leaking to the top of the motor. any ideas where to start with this one? It seems like there is a fair amount coming out and the fuel economy on my quad doesn't seem the greatest.

My questions: what should I do to address the leaking fuel?
What kind of fuel economy can I expect from my sportsman?

 

That's what I keep telling people on hard to solve problems. Cheaper/easier in the long run to pay an hr shop labor to let the dealer handle these type problems rather than pull your hair out..On the fuel leaking I'd check the fuel line from the pump,to the fuel filter and the line running back to the fuel rail for any leaks.It's one continuous loop. Plus don't over look the tank vent and follow it to where it terminates in/under the pod area. Know you don't want to hear it,but it might be best to remove the plastic for a good look.

 

You were absolutely right about going to the dealership. It only cost 120 for the adjustment. I would have had to order the pigtail, tried to adjust it myself etc...and I would still have been working on it late into the night with that terrible feeling in my stomach wondering if this would fix it and if it was being done right.

Okay, on the fuel, its definitely coming from the tank vent tube. I can see it coming out. How do I fix that?

 

Go from the tank vent nipple onward. If it's leaking at the nipple you can replace it,use pipe dope, teflon tape or jb weld if its leaking at the threads.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse You can get these nipples at most hard ware stores if needed. Same for the vent line.