Hi,

I bought the above as a project. Got it to run well, finally. When running the battery isn't charging. Behind the battery is that little "bag" thing with a red and black coming out of it. Looks like it has battery type connectors on the ends. It's not hooked up to the battery so is started it and tested them for voltage. Nothing coming out of these mystery wires. The stator is good and all electrics work, lights etc.

Suggestions?
Thanks, Mark

 

Only extra type wiring that I've remember is an auxiliary plug behind the battery,in front of the tail lights. Previous owner may have just disconnected things,plus there is a sealed 20 circuit breaker in a plastic pouch up from the battery that's the main power for the lights,electric starter and dash lights. Plus I'd pull the font panel and check that all the regulator wires are plugged in. Located right behind the radiator and bad area for vibration and wires have been known to have come unplugged. If the lights,starter are working then the breaker is ok( item#2), regulator is item#34.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse If regulator wires are plugged in,you can check that there is resistance between the yellow and yellow/red stator wires leading to the regulator and that neither wire shorts to ground. If this checks out most of the time the regulator is faulty and reason for battery not charging.Oem replacements are expensive on this model,but aftermarket regulators are reasonable.Voltage Regulator Rectifier for Polaris Sportsman 325 1999 2000 400 2001 2002 | eBay

 

Thanks! It's a job and a half to get at the regulator. I'd be ok to run it and check for voltage on the yellow and red/yellow? All the wires are plugged in now. What is that bag thing located on the left rear? Like I mentioned it has a red and a black coming out of it and it appears to be intended to hook up to the battery.

 

Brain dead on the bag with the black and red wires as brown is the main ground wire that Polaris used. Sounds like something the previous owner had or was intending on hooking up to power something else.Especially since it wasn't hooked up. Actually better to just test resistance between the yellows and and also make sure neither wire shorts to ground. If they check out,replace the regulator. 9 out of 10 times regulators were the problem on shorting out,not the stator charge coil.

 

Ok, thanks. It's got a winch which I was hoping not to pull off but guess I've gotta go there. I just had the stator cover off. All looks well in there. Thanks for your help.

 

Need a little more help. With the machine running, I disconnected the stator wires, at the regulator. It would make sense that I would get voltage on the multi meter there directly proportional to engine speed. I get nothing. Resistance tests at .8. Stator is failed most likely?

 

Stator red to green,1.6 ohms. Blk/R to green 446 ohms,Blk/R to red 450 ohms, (pick up coil)white to white/red 97 ohms, yellow to yellow red .13 ohms. All resistance specs are +/- 20%.

 

Would I get a voltage reading with the engine running and metering on the yellow and yellow/red?

 

Charging System "Break Even" Test
CAUTION: Do not connect or disconnect the battery cable or ammeter with the engine running. Damage will
occur to light bulbs and speed limiter.
CAUTION: Never use the electric starter with the ammeter connected, or damage to the meter may result. Do
not run test for extended period of time. Do not run test with high amperage accessories.
The "break even" point of the charging system is the point at which the alternator overcomes all system loads
(lights, etc.) and begins to charge the battery. Depending on battery condition and system load, the break even
point may vary slightly. The battery should be fully charged before performing this test.
Connect an ammeter set to DC amps in series between the negative battery cable and terminal. Connect a
tachometer according to manufacturer's instructions. With engine off and the key and kill switch in the ON position,
the ammeter should read negative amps (battery discharge). Reverse meter leads if a positive reading is
indicated. Shift transmission into neutral. Start engine with recoil only. Increase engine RPM while observing
ammeter and tachometer. Note RPM at which the battery starts to charge (ammeter indication is positive). With
lights and other electrical load off, this should occur at approximately 1500 RPM or lower on both 150 and 200
watt alternators. Turn the lights on and lock parking brake to keep brake light on. Repeat test, observing ammeter
and tachometer. With lights on, charging should occur at or below 3000 RPM on 150 watt alternators and 2000
RPM on 200 watt alternators.
Alternator Output Test (AC amp)
This test measures AC amperage from the alternator.
Maximum alternator output will be indicated on the meter. It is not necessary to increase engine RPM above idle.
Place the red lead on the tester in the 1 OA jack. Turn the selector dial to the AC amps (A,,-,) position. Connect
the meter leads to the Yellow and Yellow/Red wires leading from the alternator. Start the engine and let it idle.
Reading should be a minimum of 5A at idle.

 

I unplugged the voltage regulator and now can't remember which wires go where. I have Red, Brown, Yellow, Red/'Yellow from the regulator. This is on a 2001 500HO. Can you help?