Aftermarket carb???
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new to forum
My problem is lack of power an spits back threw carb this is a 1999 polaris ranger 6x6 500 this is what i have done replaced fuel filter before pump an added one after pump all new fuel lines drained tank cleaned spotless inside replaced crank case filter valves were .012 adjusted to .006 book says,took carb apart cleaned nothing new bought rebuild kit replaced all parts that came with kit venture doesnt come in kit just needle rubber has no holes or cracks but has ripples in it all uniform all around venture has scratches on exit side moves freely its better but still spits back full trottle .fustrated cant afford new mikuni so ordered aftermarket from ebay M.J.Zee hoping this does it
#14
Spitting back through the carb on this model may not carb or fuel related.If the carb you ordered doesn't solve the backfiring recheck the cam lobes. Make sure the exhaust cam lobe isn't ground down even if you adjusted the valves correctly. The 99 was in the model year of faulty cams on the 500.Symptoms were that many would idle ok,but back fire and bog down when throttle was applied.Here's an example on a bad cam lobe on a Scrambler 500 that a member had. Bad Cam Pic - ATVConnection.com ATV Enthusiast Community One other thing that could have faulted is the limiter module. Pull the black wire from it and see if that helps. Item #24
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Usually no problem on the rocker block dowels falling out. Easier if you have the cam sprocket alignment pin dead center of the head,mark the spot for reassembly,remove the cam sprocket and chain,let them fall down.Remove the tensioner.Pull the thermostat cover out of the way to get to the cam cover. Slide the old cam out,new one in. Make sure the compression detent lever and spring are working right. Pull up the chain and cam sprocket and make sure the alignment pin is on your mark WITHOUT moving the crankshaft.You can move the chain around if need be on the lower crank sprocket to get in alignment.Install the 3 cam sprocket bolts,rocker blocks and torque blocks to 10 ft pounds.Set the tensioner inward and install. Adjust/check valves at this point to make sure they're at .006 intake and exhaust. Use the recoil and pull over slowly,tensioner will adjust. After draining oil from the tank and sump make sure you remove the oil screen in the tank and clean off any metal shavings.Throw in 2 quarts of oil and a new filter. Pinch off the upper tank vent line and crank the engine up for a couple minutes.Kill it and release the pliers from the vent line. You may or may not hear a hiss of air,but the oil pump will be primed.Hopefully this will get you back on the road.Don't worry about the cam chain plated links as you won't need to align them up if you go this route on installing the cam and timing. They're only there if you have the engine torn down and for initial timing. Once the engine is turned over the plated links wont line up on the sprocket dots anyway. Be sure to replace the the exhaust rocker arm also as it will usually be worn also.Plenty of them on ebay.http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CAMSHAFT...VUvb1D&vxp=mtr You have to leave the radiator cap off to bleed any trapped air when you removed the thermostat and cover. Let the fan cycle on and off several times and add coolant to the radiator as it goes down.May take a little while to do this with the long Ranger coolant hoses. May help on bleeding air pockets by jacking up the drivers side a little. Once done top off the radiator, replace the cap and top off the recovery bottle.
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