Hey guys,

First off, I've worked on plenty of cars over the years but rarely any 4 wheelers other than this one. Thanks for your patience with my questions!

I have a 1997 Polaris Xplorer 300. It had sat for around 3 years without running. I rebuilt the carb and was able to play with and drive it for probably around 20-30 hours until it spontaneously died one day. I pulled it back and let it sit a while. Since then, I've had little to no luck getting it running. It will fire after around 60 seconds of electric starting (the pull start cable broke). If/when it fires at best I can get it running for maybe 2 minutes at a time. Even then, it's very sporadic at best and eventually putters out. I've tweaked on the carb and double checked everything there and don't see it to be the issue. Compression has been checked and yielded around 115PSI (probably a bit more if I could test via pull starting since the starter sucks) so I don't think compression is an issue. I changed the plug and still the same results. Then I decided to check for spark. Removing the plug and letting it arc to the head yields only sparking SOMETIMES. Often times it won't spark at all. I even used a spark plug tester (the one that mount the plug and you plug the wire into it) and the results are the same. I'm assuming that when it finally runs, it's because the spark is just enough to make it start. It smells very rich as well which would make sense if the cylinder is being loaded with fuel from not burning off.

To my question (IF YOU ARE STILL WITH ME, THANKS!):

1) I've read over and over about removing the CDI box from the equation by unplugging the black wire from it. WHERE THE HECK IS THAT CDI BOX ON A 1997 XPLORER? I never once in over 20 something threads saw that answer for this model.

2) Where is the plug wire going to in case I want to swap that out as a cheap check?

Things to note:

-I did replace the ignition switch on it a while back as my youngest son lost the key (he is 3 and likes to play ride it). I'm not sure if perhaps that wiring in of the next ignition switch could be causing a short where the thing thinks the key is essentially not in the on position (HOWEVER THERE IS NO LAPSE IN THE GREEN NEUTRAL LIGHT BEING ON SO I WOULDN'T THINK THAT'S THE CASE).

 

You have to pull the front rack and front panel to get to the cdi. It's usually below the terminal board in between the regulator and reverse limiter module. Looks like this one.. Plus never hurts to have a service manual that can help you in so many repairs and service..http://visit.tradebit.com/visit.php/...75/264163234/9

 

OK good deal and thanks very much for your reply. I actually have that manual which has helped on a lot of things but it is not very specific with location of some components on specific models as it's intended to cover all the models they made over those 3 year models. Anyhow, I'll pull the front rack off tonight and report back the results.

Do you have a PayPal account BTW? I've literally seen and read so many of your posts I'd like to buy you a beer whether you are able to help me here or not.

Thanks!

-Josh

 

Wouldn't be ethical on a free forum like this even though a good Shiner Bock every now and then sounds good though I'm not much of a beer drinker.. Plus if I did take gifts,pay offs,etc then I'd be no better than that crook Hillary..

 

LOL I hear that. BTW I'm located in College Station, Texas which means I love some Shiner as well. So from one Texan to another thanks again!