waaaaiiiittt...i bled the hand brake at the rear then went straight to the pedal...are you saying i should bleed the fronts before the pedal even tho i have a firm hand brake?...btw, i took the caliper off and did a switch with the seals, just switched the sides of the caliper it was on and i have a little bit of pedal now...like 1/4 inch lol...

 

and i guess i dont understand, if its taking in air, wouldnt it also leak when i step on the pedal or lever or both at the same time....frustrating, i dont want to buy a caliper if its just a stuck air bubble..grrr

 

All you're trying to do is bleed the system just like they do on a car. Go to the farthest point which is the rear caliper,then to the front right,then left front(closest to the master cylinder) to remove any possible trapped air in lines. Then you can concentrate on the rear(emergency) brake and bleed it's line at the caliper.A mity vac is best on this and a lot quicker,but an extra pair of hands can help also. You can pump te pedal brake if you wish,then bleed. Do this several times until you have a firm pedal. If you can't get a firm pedal then the seals could be sucking air in this small master cylinder. Most people don't ever use the rear brake and when it comes time to need it they don't have it because the seals are shot. Same thing on the main master cylinder itself. The seals don't last forever. That's why they offer piston/seal rebuild kits.Item#6.Dirt Cheap Yamaha, Polaris, Suzuki & Kawasaki OEM Parts & Accessories – Cycle Parts Warehouse Same thing for the small master cylinder seals and rear caliper seals and o-rings. At times it's best to rebuild a brake system front to back rather than fighting with it section by section.

 

so youre saying air from the hand brake can affect the pedal, even tho its split?

 

If there is a seal or o-ring problem in the rear caliper or even through the small master cylinder seals if they're shot,yes it can. And at times the seals in the hand brake. I've never liked this set up in the beginning where three brake lines feed through a single square block plus the rear caliper has two fluid chambers. The old fashioned rear mechanical brakes were a lot better. Even though they still had a hydraulic line from the front master cylinder,the emergency pedal brake was strictly mechanical and could be adjusted to account for pad wear. Plus you could lock up the rear wheels on most machines just with the rear brake. On yours I'd say at least rebuild or replace the rear master cylinder and go from there.This alone may solve your problems since it wasn't hooked up to begin with as you said.98 2001 Polaris Scrambler Rear Foot Brake Master Cylinder Seal Repair Kit OS145 | eBay 10 bucks more for a new one.2000 2008 Rear Brake Master Cylinder for Polaris Scrambler 400 500 | eBay

 

ok ill just roll with it for now, prolly throw money at a new caliper and MC after a few beers tonight lol, luckily i have a hand brake MC that i know is good...i do notice my hand brake is slow to retract and most the time doesnt retract completly...i wont bother you anymore today(i think) thanks for all the help! you are the man! going to test the brakes i have real quick

 

i think im just expecting more, my ole 325 would lock the rears up this scrammy just slows me down lol

 

back to bother

went out to check if my fluid levels and brakes still had pressure this morning and i stumbled upon my poroblem(s)!
1.i didnt notice it yesterday but when i hit the brakes i noticed brake fluid being push up between the caliper halves then sucking it back when i release, so it has to be the BRAND NEW little o rings in there..guess ill bust out my oring kit and find maybe a thicker diameter???

2. while doing this, not sure how i missed it yesterday, the rotor isnt centered in the caliper..both pistons squeeze and retract but the inside piston hits first and tries to bend/push the rotor to the outside before the outer piston gets there..should it be centered, should i shim the rotor out a bit??

 

Rotor not being centered isn't the problem as most of them will be off a tad. I've even had some people shim calipers up to make up this difference. O-rings if not seated correctly can cause this along with not being exactly the same size. Aftermarket seal kits on this may vary and since you've already said the large piston seals were too big,this may very well be the problem.On this I'd either break down and geta new caliper or if you rebuild it again use the oem seals and o-rings.New Pure Polaris Rear Brake Caliper Seal Kit O Ring 2201385 Magnum Scrambler | eBay Plus use a little seal grease(available at any auto supply) around the small o-rings to seal and hold in place.

 

is that grease specific? or can i just use a tad of like the grease i use on my zerks?thanks again!