On the headlight/start switch there is a Alan set screw, does it ground to the bar when tight. I did a pressure check on the coolong system and it held 13 pounds. Something killed my battery overnight, could the problem headlight switch be drawing power?

 

Can i use regular green coolant or does it have to be Polaris coolant.

 

Switch may be the problem,but charge the battery up and have it load tested. It may or may not be able to hold a charge even if it is fairly new.I've found bad batteries straight out of the box.Plus I can't remember without going back through all the posts if you checked that the battery was receiving 14-14.5 volts when it was at an idle showing that the charging system was working properly. The allen screw just secures the control switch to the handle bars,doesn't have anything to do with grounding. Most atv coolant now is 60/40,but 50/50 can work as both are approved for use in aluminum radiators. You can use Peak,Prestone,Zerex,etc without worries in either ratios.Lot of our dirt bike riders used Engine Ice,but really too expensive for atv use.

 

Well I just took the switch out of the package and switched the housings since mine is in better shape. While switching I noticed the board in the old one was barely holding together as it fell apart, so I think my intermittent 12 volt loss was due to that. The battery is shot since I charged it and it died as I held the meter on it so new battery soon. New sensor for the radiator tomorrow. I hope this fixes my issues. Thanks again for all your help so far, see what tomorrow holds.

 

Rarely are people able to tear a left control switch apart without the spring and brass plates flying out everywhere. That is one problem hopefully solved. The battery is another as even if the radiator sensor was in good shape,the fan has to have a constant 12 volts for it to cycle on and off properly.Just because a battery may show 12 volts or a tad more doesn't mean that it's good. Here's a good article on batteries,how to test and when to chunk em.https://www.batterystuff.com/blog/ho...ry-is-bad.html

 

Thanx again for all the help. I will post tomorrow after I get the sensor.

 

Here are 3 sensors you can get at a auto parts store.

Wells sw526
Napa FS147
Blue Streak TS-127

The important thing is the thread size which is M16X1.5.
❞

 

Ok.....new battery, sensor and left controls done. How long should it take for the fan to kick on? I had it running for a while at idle, hoses were hot but the radiator was not very hot I could still touch it.

 

Jack the front end up,leave the radiator cap off. May take up to 30 minutes or longer on some machines to purge all the air from the system along with you squeezing the hoses to help it along. Double check that the charging system is working ok and it's keeping the battery charged. If the radiator was warm to the touch but not hot it still wouldn't be enough for the sensor to close to trigger the fan.Run it until the fan kicks on. Once the fan kicks on the radiator level will usually drop. Let the fan cycle on and off a couple more times.Top off the coolant in the radiator while it's still running,replace the cap and fill the over flow bottle. Take it for a test drive to make sure the fan still kicks on and off and no hot light.

 

The machine is jacked up and running for over an hour and no fan. Water is over 200