I was going to go over my primary this winter, but when I priced a rebuild kit and tools, I emailed my dealer. They can do it for less than what it will cost me, so I will most likely let them.

But I'm going over my secondary, not as much too it. Aside from the press to hold it while I remove the clip, nothing else should be needed? If the bushings are worn, I can ask my dealer to press new ones in.

 

You have the simple non ebs clutch. After you get it off and on the bench,while holding both sheaths,push down on the helix,remove the snap ring and slowly let go of the sheaths. It will unwind.. Remove the helix(Remember where the spring ends go!! Usually in the 2-2 position.Blow out all the dust and check the ramp buttons for wear. Might as well replace them since you're there. If I remember it's a 25 torque screw for the buttons. When cleaned and ready to replace,slide the outer sheath over the shaft,align the WIDE slot on the helix to the wide spot on the shaft,have the spring in the helix first,lower the other end down into the correct hole(1,2 or 3) Don't push the helix all the way down yet. Have helping hands or a pair of c clamps. Hold the bottom sheath,turn the upper sheath(helix will turn with it) COUNTER clock wise 1/3rd turn. Hold or clamp both sheaths and knock the helix down fully. Replace the circlip and then let go of the sheaths. If done right they will snap back..http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-OEM-07-14-...lXhmdf&vxp=mtr

 

Thanks a ton OPT. Am I right about letting dealer rebuild the primary? It's more involved, eh?

 

If they rebuild it right,yes cheaper to let them do it. You need the spider tool to split the clutch sheaths along with the plain bearing removal and installer tool to rebuild one right. Hard to replace this large coated brass bearing and not damage it without the proper tool.These tools alone would probably cost as much or close to what the dealer would charge to rebuild a clutch.

 

Thanks OPT.