2000 sportsman 500 ebs

Rebuilt drive clutch due to creeping and hard shifting into gears. Fired up machine after rebuild and cleaning both clutches and a lot of improvement was made. At first secondary was rarely spinning in idle but I could visually see belt was ridding closer to outer sheave on drive clutch. Secondary had 2 shims/washers behind it, I removed 1, now secondary has zero spin but belt is still visually closer to outer sheave. Can I remove the last shim/washer to better center the belt or do I have to have at least 1 shim/washer behind the secondary?

 

One shim needs to remain,but you can go smaller or larger on the shim if needed.See if this post helps on the ebs also.https://atvconnection.com/forums/pol...-creeping.html

 

Thanks opt.
Clutch has new brass and plastic like washer. Secondary is not moving. I did not put in a new blue with green spring when I rebuilt the drive clutch.. I noticed with machine off the belt is nicely centered in drive clutch, at idle the belt appears closer to moveable sheave. Idle is at 1,050 rpms. I measured the free length of the spring at 2.500". Appears at idle the moveable sheave has slightly moved which reduces the gap. Is this normal or is this a sign my spring is pooched even though it measures good at free length?

 

If it doesn't creep or hard to shift then I'd leave it as is.But you might use a pry bar on the front motor mount and see if it flexes much. May be getting a little soft and needs to be replaced. Another thing you can do is loosen the nut on the front motor mount and pull outward a little on the mount/engine then tighten the nut back up the see how the belt lines up.

 

If loosen the mount and move the engine wont that impact my clutch alignment?

 

Yes it may allow the clutches to line up better along with allowing the belt to track straighter,especially if shimming doesn't solve all of the problems. Worn or soft mounts are something that people do over look that can affect belt/clutch alignment. The manuals calls for 10" center to center distance on drive clutch and driven clutch bolts,but that's not always an absolute either.

 

Are you using a clutch alignment tool??

 

I need to order the tool, i dont have one.

 

I had these alignment tools and they're junk!! Can't get in far enough with out hitting the backing plate to use one correctly and even then it was hard to tell if clutches were aligned with the tool.Mine stayed on the tool wall! Plus the alignment tool couldn't take into account worn parts on the one way bearing,etc that would affect the way the clutches/belt operated. Easier to just look at the clutches and belt alignment visually. You can also see if the belt is tracking center of the ebs correctly while at an idle and if the rear clutch was aligned with the front by the way the belt was positioned. That's where the shimming in or out of the rear clutch came into place,checking for worn,soft motor mounts,etc.

 

Mine worked just fine...