Polaris Discussions about Polaris ATVs.

help, i am getting sick of my trailblazer's crappy breaks!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Apr 17, 2001 | 11:38 PM
  #11  
realoldguy's Avatar
Trailblazer
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Default

on the 2000 models of trailblazer they had the old syle of break line's and the were very squeeshee. I know this is not all of your problem but going to the new steel reinforced lines it is a lot better you might try that. They do not give as much and help a lot. The 2001 trailblazers and trailboss came stock with them and it made a big difference.

2001 400 Scrambler
2001 Trailblazer
2001 Explore 250 4X4
2001 Honda 250EX
 
Reply
Old Apr 18, 2001 | 04:16 PM
  #12  
talonhawk's Avatar
Pro Rider
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 743
Likes: 0
Default

The brakes may have not been adjusted wright to begin with!! The warranty is only good for six months. So unless you have an extended warranty you better have it looked at ASAP.
 
Reply
Old Apr 18, 2001 | 07:17 PM
  #13  
RideRed04's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Pro Rider
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
Default

i probably would swich over to the steel braided, but i dont really want to stick anymore money into it, as i am selling it soon and getting a 400ex. talonhawk, if they werent adjusted right, would the breaks only be bad after riding at high speed, or after not using them for a while? a bad master cylinder just seems to make more sence to me. after pumping them about 3 times, it will stop just fine.
 
Reply
Old Apr 18, 2001 | 08:36 PM
  #14  
talonhawk's Avatar
Pro Rider
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 743
Likes: 0
Default

Seems to me that if you had a bad master cylinder that you would lose brake fluid somewhere.
You may just have alot of air still. We did my brothers brakes last fall. We put new brake lines on and it took along time to get all the air bubbles out.
 
Reply
Old Apr 18, 2001 | 09:23 PM
  #15  
RideRed04's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Pro Rider
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
Default

wouldnt it get a little better after multiple bleedings? the dealer bled it, i dont know how many times, but we bled it about 5 times, front and rear (back up and main) the rear e-brake used to work but doesnt anymore.
 
Reply
Old Apr 19, 2001 | 08:40 PM
  #16  
talonhawk's Avatar
Pro Rider
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 743
Likes: 0
Default

I doesn't make any difference how many times you bleed the lines. If the disc or the lever are not adjusted right it could always feel mushee.
Are you leaking fluid anywhere?
 
Reply
Old Apr 19, 2001 | 11:01 PM
  #17  
RideRed04's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Pro Rider
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 375
Likes: 0
Default

i dont think it is leaking break fluid, but i could be wrong. it isnt mushy, it pulls to the handle bar, and after a few squeeses, it is normal. is this a symtom?
 
Reply
Old Apr 20, 2001 | 08:13 PM
  #18  
talonhawk's Avatar
Pro Rider
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 743
Likes: 0
Default

If its not obvious that there is a fluid leak. Like around the calipers or master cylinder or hoses and its adjusted and bleed then it has to be a bad master cylinder. Possible a bad compensation port!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The brake lever should not pull in all the way into the handle bars!
 
Reply
Old Apr 20, 2001 | 11:38 PM
  #19  
Sportsman6x6's Avatar
Range Rover
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Default

I replaces the pads on mine, and well I adjusted them like I was told. Screw the adjustment screw in until they touch the disk, then back out 1 1/2 turn. Man they stop but nothing like they use to. Do I need to adjust them more or what. Thanks for any help.
 
Reply
Old Apr 21, 2001 | 06:19 PM
  #20  
talonhawk's Avatar
Pro Rider
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 743
Likes: 0
Default

I believe that you may have yours adjusted out too far. My manual for the 99 models says to back out the adjusting screw 1/4 - 1/2 turn.
 
Reply



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:45 AM.