The 99 Xplorer 400 shows all resistance readings +/- 20% so you should be ok on the pick up coil. Stator Red to Black/Red should show around 226 ohms.If this is way off the stator needs to be replaced. Red and White wires also should show no direct short to ground. Also pull the plug cap and see if you have spark from the bare wire.Last thing is to pull the black kill wire from the cdi and check for spark.

 

Polaris Tech, thanks for the quick reply back. I did pull the black kill wire from the cdi and still no spark. I did this before my last post. I will pull the plug cap and check the spark on the bare wire. When you say red and white wires should show no direct short to ground are you talking about the ones from the cdi? could you explain this test in more detail? Sorry I'm very new at this and learning as I go. I'm thinking with the weird readings I was getting on the red to black/red that somehow I damaged the stator when rebuilding the water pump and it needs to be replaced. I did use some elec. spray/cleaner on the plug/wires that plug into the switch/module on the left handle bar when I replaced it with the new one but there must be other issues because still no lights.

 

On the stator Red and White wires have the red meter probe in each wire and negative probe to the group of brown wires or a solid frame ground. Shouldn't zero out indicating a short. If the main stator Red to Red/Black is outside the resistance allowed then yes it needs to be replaced. As far as no lights even with a new control switch,sound like you need to check the connectors and wiring leading into the switch. All it takes is one wire shorting out where the wires lead back into the main harness. Also don't take for granted the main circuit breaker in the plastic pouch. Should have constant power in and out on the red wires. If in doubt cut the pouch open and check the breaker for corrosion. They can kick off and on if old and corroded. You can get a new one cheap at any auto supply.

 

Polaris Tech: Thank you, that all make sense. Excellent advice, I'll continue to chip away at it. The manual (downloaded on my computer) has a electrical schematic at the end of it, which I plan on studying a bit more. I'm not a pro when it comes to understanding electrical schematics but I have electrical book that explains a lot of the symbols which should help also. At least the new starter is working and not a bad price from DB electrical. I assumed it would be a lot more expensive than what it was, so again thanks for the tip on that.

 

Polaris Tech: on the red and white wires doing as you suggested I get a beep from my meter and it does not zero out. I believe that tells me all is good and no shorts. I did the test again on the red to red/black several times, each reading I get the same readings/numbers +or - within a few numbers it goes/starts with 28, 166, 196 then back to no reading. it does this all within a few seconds and it will not hold a steady number but each test I did is the same. Is this normal? or in your opinion is this telling me the stator is bad? The test reading on the pick up coil holds at a steady 104.4 but again on the stator I can't get it to hold a steady number/reading.

 

Polaris Tech: my bad, if you read my last post I had the meter set on 200 ohms. Once I put it to on the 2K setting the meter held a steady reading at 233 ohms, which tells me the stator is checking out good. So continuity checks out, (read last post) pickup coil checks out, stator checks out. I'll have to put it all back together and do the bare wire test as you suggested. Could the main circuit breaker if bad cause a no spark issue? I have not checked that out yet as you suggested, trying to get it running again before working on the no lights issue.

 

As long as you have power to the dash,electric starter,etc,the main fuse is ok.It doesn't have anything to do with spark. Pull the black kill wire from the cdi and check for spark. IF you have spark,problem can be in the left control switch or ignition switch black wires,or in some cases can be the kill circuit of the cdi itself is grounding out. If you don't have spark when you pull the black cdi kill wire,make sure the coil specs check out. If it does check out ok,then sounds like the cdi module is at fault as the stator shows to be good according to your readings.

 

Polaris Tech: I removed the ignition coil to check it out rather than pulling the cap and checking the bare wire for spark. from what I understand I should get/check two readings a primary and secondary. On the secondary reading (tab from bottom of coil to cap) I get a reading of 11.6 with meter set to 20k. On the primary reading (tab from bottom of coil to ground) I get no reading at all. Where the coil wire comes out of the coil going to the cap to me seems to me to be one piece and no way to test that. In your opinion is this ignition coil bad with the readings I'm getting? the coil wire itself is app. 15" long from bottom of coil to cap.

 

Coil tab(where the wire from the cdi hooks to) to ground .03 ohms. Secondary,coil tab to wire (cap on) 6.3K ohms. Cap itself is a 5k ohm cap and should read close to that.

 

Polaris Tech: thanks for the response back, I ordered a new ignition coil because readings are not to spec. as I stated in earlier post. Should be here early next week. I will update my findings when I get it replaced.