Smoking can be accumulation of oil in the pipe as it gets hot burning plus if you haven't rebuilt the carb excess gas can add to the smoking. All of them are going to smoke a little. No way around it. Synthetic "Smokeless" oils aren't really smokeless. They may smoke a little less than conventional oil. I'd worry more if one didn't smoke than one that killed every mosquito around. If you wanted to you could have the pipe vatted out if a there are any radiator shops still around that could do it. Or you can let one soak in kerosene for a few days. That'd clean a lot of oily residue out. Most important thing on a two stroke is to know what condition the top end is in. A compression check can give you some peace of mind or at least warn you that it might be getting time to freshen it up. New out of the crate they were around 135 psi or so on the 300.If it's around 120 psi or more,it should be ok for a while. Some people swore by the old blue bottle conventional type Polaris oil,big box store lubes, some had to have the synthetic or some other brand of oil. Debates can get hot and furious over which oil lubricates best.And Polaris certainly doesn't make their own oil,Lube-Tech in Minnesota does unless that's changed..Plus my two cents you can over kill on some of these expensive oils. Royal Purple is a Texas based company with a good following down here same as Amsoil is for many others but are either one really needed in this low compression engine? P.S. Yes Shindy carb kits imo are the best as they are good quality parts made in Japan.And who knows how to make a better carb than the Japanese.

 

Just tore apart carb today, it must of been rebuilt in the last couple years. The floats looked brand new. The slide is even polished or dipped. I'm still ordering the rebuild kit though.

There was smoke leaking from between manifold and head pipe and I found them brand new cheap so I ordered them. I also found the rest of exhaust used but barley, not a spot of rust on it so I ordered it also bc mine is pretty rusty. Is there any gaskets that go between each part that I need to order?

My choices for oil were non synthetic 2 stroke or Polaris Premium Blue, with blue being synthetic I thought that was the better choice. I paid with tax $31.79 for a gallon, not quite as bad as I thought. Does it matter how much gas is in gas tank and oil in oil tank as long as one doesn't run dry? Just a curious question.

How do you adjust the rear brake and chain tension?

 

Hard to tell if a needle and seat are worn. Sometimes you can tell by rings around the rubber tip or shiny spots on the sides. Best to replace it rather than trying to just clean a carb.The only gasket used is the one against the head pipe and cylinder. The other pipe and muffler section is bell shaped to fit over this one,no gaskets or donuts. You have to loosen the outer lock nut and turn the bolt in until the bottom of the pedal is 1/2" off the floor board.Chain slack is adjusted by loosening the two eccentric pinch bolts ,inserting a punch and rolling the machine forward or rear ward to where there is 1/2" play in the center of the chain. Disregard the procedure for strapping down the suspension. Never worked right that way. Again that cheap manual I listed has all of this covered..

 

Sorry I was looking for the brake adjustment in manual and missed the small part with the steps. For the chain adjustment I wasn't sure whether to follow the steps for Single Adjuster, Twin Adjuster, or Eccentric Axle Housing so that's why I asked.

The one gasket for the exhaust is not listed on the parts diagram so I wasn't sure if there was any, not sure where I'm going to find the gasket being I don't know what it looks like or the part number. Funny that it's not shown in the exhaust section of the diagram.

 

Oh,it's listed,just not at the exhaust pipe where it should have been. Sometimes you have to second guess the people that do the illustrated parts break down(Ipb) Item#35.Polaris ATV Parts 1995 W958130 300 4X4 CRANKCASE and CYLINDER Diagram I was one of these guys for about 4 years in my early days helping make ipb manuals for radio equipment that went into government planes.Boring job..

 

Oh I never thought to look under crankcase and cylinder, it's understandable that it's there but would of made more since to be in the exhaust section IMO. Once I get the parts I shouldn't have an issue since I'll see how everything goes together by taking the old off.

What was a boring job to you sounds really interesting to me!! I'm sure not a lot of people are able to say they did that kind of work.

If it wasn't for you I probably would of given up on this thing by now. I've had wheelers pretty much all my life but never had to work on them before besides regular maintenance. This is my first Polaris. Over the past 2 years I've been widening my skills, from Harley's to outboard motors to now wheelers. I really enjoy it, even though sometimes I'm banging my head against the wall. I started learning from experienced and active forum members such as yourself and I'm greatful for people to help the newbie like me. I'm sure it gets frustrating with my basic and repeated questions but never once has anyone talked down to me but continued to help. Without people like you, people like me don't get to learn and many would give up. Thanks again, I'm sure there will be more questions in the near future lol.

 

I decided to take it for a little ride. I rode a few miles and came to a big hill and decided to see if it could pull me up it. Well I think I about blew it up. It was going fine then all of a sudden just died. Tried starting but the starter wouldn't turn and pull start was locked up. I shut key off and turned it back on and the starter turned but wouldn't fire. I pull started it and it would fire but wouldn't start completely. I had to choke it, pump the throttle 6-8 times and then hold it in and pull start it and it started. I had to keep it on full throttle for 30 seconds before it would idle. I turned around and went back down the big hill. There's a smaller hill/trail that leads right down to my house and on the way down it stalled but I was able to start it again. Toward the bottom it stalled again but wouldn't start, I tried starting the same way as before but would only start for a second. It must be fuel related so I'm going to redo carb, fuel valve, and all gas lines. When I took carb apart I seen a couple houses that one end was connected to anything, I know one was overflow but I'm not sure what the other was.

What I know that needs repaired is: exhaust leak between manifold and head pipe weld, carb gaskets, jets, etc and also my oil light seems to always blink. I think there may be an issue in the starter wiring, seems like sometimes it's not supplying enough power to get the motor to fire.

 

Starter or even the battery doesn't have anything to do with spark. This is an old magneto triggered system that can start with a dead battery with just the recoil. Think you need to do a compression check that I mentioned doing back on the 11th post. Hope it's not top end related.

 

I have to go buy a compression gauge, plan on doing the test once all the exhaust and carb parts get here. I can't fit my plug wrench in there without taking the plastic off so I figured it would be best to do all at once. I hope it's not top end related also, if it is I guess I'll learn something new. I didn't pay much of anything for the wheeler anyways, just was looking for something to tinker around with.

 

I ended up ordering the compression gauge, couldn't bring myself to spend $50 at an auto parts store when I could get it online for $20. Will be here by Wednesday.

I read that a sign of low compression is the ability to roll the wheeler back and forth easily while in gear, mine does this. I won't know for sure until I do the test but if that info is accurate it's looking more and more like a top end issue.