Sportsman 500 efi.
Neighbor brings it to me not starting.
replaced harness due to all the insulation had come off the wires. Still starts and shuts right off.

Replaced stator due to melted connector.
Replaced fuel filter, just because.
Replaced injector and fuel pump because I can make it run when spraying fuel into throttle body.
fuel pressure at the tank is 40 psi.
Replaced spark plug.
Replaced throttle body asst due to knot knowing about adjusting the isle screw makes them a paperweight..
I am at wits end with this thing guys.
The machine looks like it has had a lot of hands on it over the years..
Lots of Orange sealer all over the engine.
It will run spraying fuel in it.
I did check the injector for spraying fuel.
Shoot me some ideas besides setting fire to it, I already though about it. Lol

 

Best advise I can give you is have it placed on Digital Wrench. Too many hands on it already and it could be anything. May just need a simple harness repair kit on the t-bap or tps sensor,but no sense in throwing parts at a machine like this not knowing. Plus if it's not throwing codes that would just make it harder to find the problem or problems.

 

I do have codes.
22, 42, 41 , 47.
I have disconnected the ground for an entire week and the codes never clear.
I have also ohmed all the sensor wires back to ecu connector. With no more than .003 ohms resistance..
I chased All the codes with wire testing and sensor replacement.

 

Showing code 22 for the tps which could be the harness or connector. Code 42 for engine temp sensor which may be a bogus code.Code 47 for idle air control low voltage.This one may be legit or bogus also. Most of the problems on efi machines weren't the sensors,but the thin wiring and connectors used to run back into the harness. This has been a problem for years and the main problem we had was on the t-bap,but same thing can happen on the tps or other sensors.Read the sticky post above this section on 700/800 efi problems. Applies to all efi machines. From this post a member brought out better repair kits than what Polaris had.I replaced a bunch of them only to have them fail again.Polaris had the same cheap connectors and thin wiring as what came with the machine. You can look over this site and possibly take a chance on a harness repair kit or kits.https://otbpowersports.com/products/

 

Weird thing is it starts and runs for 5 seconds than shuts off.
I can feather the throttle and keep it running until it backfires through throttle body and shuts off.
What the heck ??????

 

Another thing you can check for if you haven't already is the sealing grommet under the t-bap sensor. If split and leaking it can cause the same symptoms of a faulty t-bap or tps harness,back firing,erratic idle or no idle. I've had to replace a couple of those also.Item #9 on the parts break down. Like I mentioned codes may not always be shown such as code 45 for the t-bap,but appears at least the tps code 22 is constant. Also if you can get it running long enough,sometimes you can wiggle the tps and t-bap harness and you can find a faulty harness by the way the engine sounds. Again look close for any bare harness wires or wires that feel soft. Same thing for the crank position sensor harness that runs under the throttle body. I've found a single strand of wire that would intermittently touch the starter and ground the engine out.Tie this harness up away from the engine. The thin sensor wiring was what we found the most problems with. If you still can't isolate the problem,you still can take a chance on the repair kits from otb or let Digital Wrench at least try to narrow it down. The 1 hour average charge can save a lot of frustration and time.

 

Checked grommet looked good.
swapped sensor with another one, still same crap.
Called dealer and told them what I have.
He responds with we are 4 weeks behind.
Wich means to me ,We don't want to fool with it..
This thing is a joke.

 

If you're still throwing a code 22 with a new throttle body that includes a preset tps sensor from the factory,that itself to me would at least warrant a tps harness repair kit from otb. If mine I'd still spring for the t-bap harness kit also. These two are well known problem areas especially with the back firing you're having. With all the orange sealant as you say and all the people that have touched this machine,it still may not solve all the problems,but at this point without Digital Wrench this is what you're down to. Unless you want to wait for the dealer.. And some sensor harness problems may extend past the 8 inches or so that you can see.I've had some that I've had to dig into the main harness they tie into to find shorts.

 

Hey Opt.
I replaced tbap harness this morning, still same thing.
I re ohmed all wires back to can connector.
I have 39psi fuel pressure.
The stator and pickup coil have been replaced with new parts.
Tbap sensor grommet has been replaced and sensor has been swapped.
Tps sensor has been calibrated and set to 1.12 v
I have performed throttle sweeps to check for bad spots on the sensor.
I can spray wd40 and make it run for as long as I want to spray.
Something is causing injector fire to stop.
I grounded the fuel pump relay to keep pump from cycling so I know the fuel pressure is at the injector.
The injector has been replaced with a brand new one.
New fuel filter,
New fuel pump.
My God this thing is CRAZY.

 

Guess you mean the crank position sensor not a pick up.. The tps sensor shouldn't have been touched as they are preset from the factory between 1.10-1.14 volts on a new throttle body assembly you say you have. Only thing you don't list is a tps harness. If you've already replaced that one also and still have problems then I'd stop and wait for the dealer and Digital Wrench. Problem could be in the ecu itself and that you can't test with just a meter.