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Found my oil leak - cylinder gasket

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  #11  
Old 11-27-2017, 05:55 AM
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Nope,gotta go from the top down.. Get a manual before you start.Polaris ATV Service Manuals PDF Download
 
  #12  
Old 11-29-2017, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
Nope,gotta go from the top down.. Get a manual before you start.Polaris ATV Service Manuals PDF Download
Thanks for the link OPT.
 
  #13  
Old 12-02-2017, 10:59 PM
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Ok - I’m tearing down the engine. Problem is that the cylinder won’t budge. Removed the 2 screws for the oil line, head bolts, and 2 screws on the flywheel side. What am I missing? Don’t want to break anything.
 
  #14  
Old 12-03-2017, 04:17 AM
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If you have the head removed along with the two 6mm bolts on the cylinder,it may take a little tapping with a dead blow hammer all around it to help jar it loose while you're pulling up on the cylinder. After being on 18 years the cylinder may take a little persuading.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
If you have the head removed along with the two 6mm bolts on the cylinder,it may take a little tapping with a dead blow hammer all around it to help jar it loose while you're pulling up on the cylinder. After being on 18 years the cylinder may take a little persuading.
What about applying a bit of heat?
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by old polaris tech
If you have the head removed along with the two 6mm bolts on the cylinder,it may take a little tapping with a dead blow hammer all around it to help jar it loose while you're pulling up on the cylinder. After being on 18 years the cylinder may take a little persuading.
Silly question, can it be tapped from the side of the head?
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:58 PM
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When separating head or cylinders, the gaskets tend to adhere to the adjoining parts and often require a certain amount of force. I always try to hit with firm, deadblows to reinforced areas and try not to hammer on the sidewalls to prevent any damage. Try hitting right beside where a bolt would be and should feel it start to loosen.
​​​​​​It would take a fair amount of heat on aluminum to do much and should not be required if all bolts are out. Its a bit of knowing and sensing how much force to apply to prevent damage and get the job done.
 
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Old 12-03-2017, 05:00 PM
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I bought a deadbolt hammer, and could not get it off. After so much pounding I ended up cracking the cylinder. Which is fine because I’m looking at a rebuild kit that includes a new cylinder. Still can’t get it off though.
 
  #19  
Old 12-03-2017, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Simon Miller
I bought a deadbolt hammer, and could not get it off. After so much pounding I ended up cracking the cylinder. Which is fine because I €™m looking at a rebuild kit that includes a new cylinder. Still can €™t get it off though.
That's too bad about your cylinder. I would suggest next time to check and recheck if things on motors are not moving after a couple firm taps before applying much more force. It's a learning process to get a sense of what force to apply to different materials.

Also, did you remove the cam hold down/caps, cam, chain and chain tensioner?

Isaiah
 

Last edited by I.b01; 12-03-2017 at 05:09 PM. Reason: Edit spelling
  #20  
Old 12-03-2017, 05:56 PM
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Entire head was removed with no problem. But cylinder won’t come off. I’m worried I now have to pull the entire engine out. Don’t have a flywheel puller - way too much $$$ for a one time job. Was trying to remove cylinder with engine in place. So hard to access all the places where I can hammer.
 



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