I suppose you meant to to say the base/cylinder gasket. Use engine oil or assembly lube on the cam. You can use these as a reference.https://atvconnection.com/forums/pol...ml#post3305250

 

Yes - cylinder with base gasket and head with head gasket. Didn't see the suggestion to use the sealant on the base gasket until it was too late. Considering the old base gasket leak was the main reason I started the project, it would be a shame if the new gasket leaks too.

I used assembly lube on the cam. Had a heck of a time getting the new chain on. I'm positive the timing is set right - however it's surprising how the plated chain markers don't stay lined up. I turned the engine over a number of times, and checked the timing again. Still need to adjust the valves.

Moving onto the stator re-install. I'm not clear on the instructions for the stator plate, where it says "apply sealer to the stator plate outer surface". Is that to help "glue" the plate back in place?

 

I don't know what manual you have ,but just oil the o-ring at the back of the stator plate. Actually best to have ordered a new one,but see if it goes in place ok without binding or pinching.If in doubt about it or the stator plate oil seal,order them. As far as the plated links on chain to set timing,once you rotate the engine the plated links wont line up again on the dots.Hopefully after you installed the chain,then the tensioner is next. Slowly rotate the engine so the tensioner adjusts.

 

Yes - I have a new o-ring and seal. I put the chain tensioner on after the chain was installed. I also had to get new bolts for the stator plate - the whole thing was a mess when I took it apart. After the machine shop repair, the recoil housing will be water tight when I'm done. Thank you for confirming about the plated links.

 

Update - have everything back together, other than the gas tank and plastics. Waiting for a new one way valve and spring. And the good news is that I don't have any extra pieces left over. Only issue was the need to slightly bend the pulsar band so the flywheel had clearance. I know it's on properly, as I took a photo before it was removed. Once I get the new valve and spring - I can add gas, oil and anti-freeze and hope nothing blows up.

 

Don't forget to raise the front tires off the ground,leave the radiator cap off until the fan cycles on and off a couple times to remove any trapped air pockets.Clamp off oil tank vent line close to the nipple for a minute or so to allow the pump to prime up quickly.When you take the vice grips off you may or may not hear a hiss of air from the slit in the line.

 

Tried to start it back up, after putting it all back together. Turns over ok, I have spark, but won't fire. So close...

 

Process of elimination.. You have spark,check that you have the carb lines to the fuel pump correct. Pull the line from the carb and crank the engine over. Should be a steady stream of fuel if the pump is ok. If not,pumps are cheap on ebay or amazon. You can also spray some starting fluid through the air box snorkel tube to see if it will at least crank on that for a bit. Does take a little bit of cranking for the fuel pump to full the carb bowl if it's working ok.

 

Have gone through those steps, no luck. Maybe I missed something else? For example - does the decompression mechanism look right? I took a photo of it before closing it up. It wasn't the same as how I found it, but I followed the instructions.

 

Doesn't look right.The spring end should be tight against the release lever. Have the cam positioned as in the manual pics(stop pin to the left) and maybe you can see better.