Hello

The steering bushing under my light bezel needs to be replaced. I am also going to install a new bearing at base of steering rod by castle nut. The videos I have seen show removing gas tank and front plastic frame. My frame plastic front fenders do not have the split in them so it is not an option to remove.
I have removed top of the light bezel and front rack and radiator cover so far. My question is if I remove the bottom part of the light bezel including 12v plug in, choke and ignition to take out lower half of the light bezel will this give me enough room to replace the steering upper bushing.
I think I can get to the lower castle nut to replace pressed in bearing by removing tie rods and bushing plate.
Has anyone attempted this?
Thanks for any suggestions.

 

I don't think there's enough room to get the bolts and bushing bracket out without the tank out of the way and you can't get the tank out without the plastic off. On those older body style machines you can (with help) pick the front cab plastic up and turn it sideways to work it off the handlebars through the hole in the front IIRC. Its not easy but doable. You move it all the way to one side to get the one end of the bars through the hole and then off but you must have the pod/ headlight completely removed.

 

Thank you for replying. I have the top pod off and can see it all but not sure if I can get to it yet. I am going to remove the bottom pod and take a look if not will pull plastic and tank.Foggy morning around 5;00 am on mountain had a tree across my logging road went around thought I had a path and dropped off a 6 foot bluff and flipped down hill. Cracked my ribs and tree stand teeth tore up my back legs. I am healed now just have to fix my ride. I have a one inch difference in handle bar height but did not notice it till the bushing came all the way out. Figure I will fix steering and then address handle bars.Hopefully did not bend steering shaft at top flanges.

 

Fixed the easy way.
Did not take all the front plastic off the machine. Here is what I did.
1. Remove top pod
2.Take lose tie rods from steering column
3 Jacked up and chalked put in park put two 6x6 and a 2x4 under it and set it down.
4.Pulled both front wheels and front rack.
5. pulled cotter pin from boating of steering column.
6. 1 1/2 castle nut no one can get to it seems. My solution took a clean 12" punch placed in ridge of castle nut two whacks and it was loose. Removed not and washer.
7 . Took lose the two locking nuts that hold steering bushing but left them on for a second.
8. Gently lift up steering wheel and column of of the bearing at castle nut. There will be a few wire fasteners and a few tie ties that need to be released to raise up the column.
9 . Once steering column is loose and here you have to be very careful. I had help and they held a magnet to back of the steering bracket on the bolts and I removed one at a time slowly.
10. Wiggle out steering bracket its a tight fit but will come out.
11 Ordered the kit for $24.00 on line includes new steering bushing and bearing with washers. Iended up using old washers as new ones were to fat.
12. Using elec tape did one wrap around bushing once in place on the steering column. Used lithium grease on column.
13 Pressed in new bearing in the new plate. ( It comes of after you take the castle nut off its a bear with two bolts.) Replaced the bearing and plate.
14. Again with help and magnet placed steering bracket on bushing and lined up and placed bolts back in slowly with the magnet and got the 1/2 inch lock nut started did other side.
15. At this point wile the top was loose still set it in the bearing at botton of column couple whacks with soft blow hammer drove it in place. ( be sure to have a washer on the top of bearing before sliding column back into bushing attached to frame.
16. Now go back and check steering busing position and tighten when it is lined up correctly.
17. Put washer on bottom of steering column and install washer and castle nut and cotter pin.
Reassemble machine. I took my time and did things like pull the radiator hoses out of the way and tied them off. I cleaned inside of pod and checked for loose wiring. While it was open greased and did any maintenance on front end. You can easily get to everything.
So bottom line is I did NOT pull off front plastic and gas tank. Use help when pitting the bolts back in steering bracket with a magnet. I stuffed in rags around bottom of pod in case I dropped a bolt. Do not drop a bolt!
This took what looked to be a super hard job pretty easy. There are some Youtube videos that help show orientation. I really liked having my large mechanics punch to take off the castle nut in place. The hardest thing it seems are the two bolts that hold bottom bearing in place. It is just a little turn at a time I think it was 1/2 bolt .
Hope this helps and good luck. Dealer would want my first born to do this.

 

If that's the easy way, I'd hate to do it the hard way. I've read on here about other people with Polaris ATVs getting the front cab off by turning it sideways and lifting one end at a time over the handlebars. You would have more room to work without it on there, but the important thing is you got it fixed.

 

Thanks Big Frank
All the steps I did would have to be done anyways

I just eliminated say 30 more steps. Considering I did not have to remove the front cab, gas tank and lower pod I think it was easier.

It has a degree of difficulty only in installing the clamp, bolts on steering arm and bushing.

But I did not have to remove the whole front end. To me it was a no brainer work around after studying it. I did put one wrap of electrical tape around steering arm bushing to hold in place.
I just eliminated say 30 more steps.
Happy Trails!