I am so glad it was helpful. Several years ago I was in the same position as you just learning about Polaris ATVs. A highly respected contributor named OPT (Old Polaris tech) who had over 30 years experience being a Polaris repair technician would really go out of his way to help me on my old atvs. Unfortunately he passed away a bit ago. It is impossible for me to know as much as OPT did but I like to help where I can which is mainly on the much older and simpler machines.

Regarding the aftermarket ignition switch, I think my switch had the same red wire with a black stripe which as you figured out goes on the Red with White stripe connector block.

Regarding Red with Red.
The color coding labeling on the terminal boards can be confusing. On each connector block they label the color on the top and the bottom of the block except for the blocks on the top. So this adds to the confusion.

So when you see a label on the board that looks like the following:
RED/W
RED

It looks like it is supposed to be Red with Red where /W is an abbreviation for "with." But, you are actually looking at the label on the bottom of the connector block that is supposed to have Red wires with a White stripe and the label on the top of the connector block which is supposed to have just Red wires. In other words these are two labels. I agree this is a very dumb design and labeling convention because it is not intuitive at all. Polaris should have abbreviated White using "WHI" instead of "W" to avoid the "/W" = "with" confusion.

So looking at the rest of the board, when you see a color with a /W that is a wire that has a white stripe. For example
BLU/W = Blue wire with white stripe
GRN/W = Green wire with white stripe
W/RED = White Wire with Red stripe
and so on.

Good luck and keep us posted on progress.
Also it is helpful when you have questions to post pictures of what you are exactly seeing. So feel free to do that in the future if you can.

 

Well thanks to you my starter silinoid is clicking when I press starter button starters not turning though I can worry about that later

My dash lights are working though 3 out of 4 bulbs are blown I figured that out by switching the light circuits around and shifting in and out of reverse and neutral

But now my main issues are fan is hard wired to a switch but it's not turning on with the switch and my kill start and ignition don't cut the spark off in the off position so if I turn the atv on it's not gunna shut off unless I choke it again thank you so much I'm so new to electrical work it's not even funny I can rebuild a atv but when it comes to electrical I have no clue

 

Yea! You're making progress. Glad to hear the solenoid clicks. As you know the starter is probably shot. But you might want to apply 12V directly to the starter to confirm it is bad before you spend the money on a new starter. I would pull the starter before trying this experiment.

In one of my older machines (1994 300) a bunch of bulbs were burnt out so i replaced them and now they worked fine.

Kind of tough trouble shooting your ignition and fan switches from here but it is possible that your ignition switch is bad. You might want to try and apply 12 volts directly to the fan to see if the fan is OK. If the fan runs with 12 volts applied directly then maybe the hard wired switch to the fan is bad.

 

OK I figured out the fan it works great just mismatched the wires by accident

So yea still the issue of ignition doaent shut off the quad and kill switch dosent shut off the quad so once I get this thing running im gunna have to choke it out to shut it off

And also there's no yellow wire with red stripe coming off stator that plugs into terminal board so I don't think my battery is charging

 

Kill switch might be bad, I've heard these do fail.

Will the engine run with the ignition switch on or off? If the engine will start and run when the ignition switch is off then it is either a bad switch, connected improperly, or you've lost your ground. Tracking down your ground can be challenging.

 

OK I'm going to need a day before I reply to those questions I broke my recoil starter so I ordered a new one should be here by tomorrow and can't start quad without it

I just noticed also coming from the kill switch housing is a pink wire that I dident connect because I couldn't find a pink terminal plug in on the board that may be why kill switch dosent work not sure where it goes


I also have 2 off topic questions until I get recoil parts

1 where is the oil fill for the bottom end on these quads lol I can't find it anywhere I wanna check bottom end oil

And 2 I'm sure if the oil injector works I was wondering how easy is it to block the Injector off and premix? I actually don't mind pre mixing I trust it more that way

I will give up date when parts come in and I get it started and if you have any idea about the pink wire

 

re: "...any idea about the pink wire"
The pink wire is confusing could you please tell me the colors of the other wires? My guess is either this is a very faded red wire or it is an aftermarket switch but I need more information.

re:"how easy is it to block the Injector off and premix"
Just a heads up, you should be running pre-mix right now until you confirm the oil injection works. If you run a full tank (4 gallons) of pre-mix at 40-1 with a functioning oil injection system you will end up with double the oil/fuel mixture for that tank but it won't harm the engine in the long term. While you burn down this tank you can monitor the oil level in the front tank to see if oil is being consumed. In one tank of premix gasoline about 1/4 of the oil in the front tank should be consumed. Some people will run two fuel tanks of premix and if they see their oil tank is down about half then they know that the oil injection system is working properly. This assumes that the oil is ending up in the engine. If there is an oil leak and the oil is not getting into the engine you'll see oil dripping somewhere on the atv.

If you really want to go to pre-mix only here are a couple of approaches one I don't recommend:

1. Not recommended -- The easiest way to not use the oil injection is to just stop adding oil to the front tank and always use premix gasoline. The low oil light will come on (if it is not burnt out) but with premix gas everything will run fine.
2. Recommended -- The next level of not using the oil injection is to remove the oil tank up front, cut off and plug the oil lines at the pump, plug the tiny oil injection hole at the carb, and leave the pump alone. This ensures someone else will know that the oil injection has been deleted and hopefully will use premix. There really isn't anything to block off because you are not removing the pump. The oil injection pump is fully enclosed and it is still connected to the throttle, but it doesn't pump any oil, it just spins with the engine.

Regarding the counter balance oil drain plug:
One of the challenges is there are 3 other drain plugs under the engine, one for the bottom-end/crank housing, one for counter balance oil, and one for the recoil starter housing. One nice thing about the 1995 Sportsman is at least there is a dipstick for filling the counter balance oil that is part number 43 in the pic below. I am pretty sure that part number 6 which is circled is the drain plug for the counter balance oil. If you remove part #6 and a couple of cups of oil comes out you found it. If no oil comes out try adding a cup of oil at the dip stick to see if oil comes out. If oil still doesn't come out you've probably removed the wrong drain plug so keep looking around. Once you find it you won't miss it again because it is in the middle of the engine between the bottom end and the recoil housing.

Good luck

 

Wow thanks for all ur help

But I just keep having problem after problem now that I got some of the electrical figured out

Im trying to start the atv and it just won't fire up I've prolly pulled it over 100 times and nothing I've got fuel spark it has compression and its getting air but it just won't go I've tried choke no choke I've cleaned the carb 3 times today with carb cleaner compressed air and a little wire for all the small holes I've put a small amount of gas in the cylinder I've put a small amount of gas in through the back of the carb I triple checked I had spark and it just won't fire up it started like 2 weeks ago when I first baught it... Sometimes when I pull it it sounds like maybe it's about to try and start but nothing happens grrrr

 

Could this maybe be why my atv Isent starting? Maybe creating weak spark my fly wheel is full of rust on the inside

 

I am not sure what is happening but suggest you remove all the wiring you did (kill switch and ignition switch at a minimum) and see if it will start. If it started fine a couple weeks ago and the only thing different now is the wiring maybe there is a short somewhere preventing the engine from starting. I have had this happen to me where an electrical problem prevented the engine from running. Once it was resolved the engine started easily and ran great. Give that a try first and let me know what you find.