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Well everything is slowly coming together I think I have the 4x4 figured out
Still waiting on starter to keep diagnosing the kill switch
. I've got most things working
One thing I noticed on my terminal board is it says I'm supposed to have a yellow and red wire from the stator connected to the board? But only wires coming from stator go to cdi and voltage regulator no connections for terminal board weird..
And another question going back to oil injector
Am I able to just unplug the one black hose going from oil tank to oil pump and that completely deletes the oil injector? I don't trust it I know every one will say it's better to have it for various reasons but I just don't think I trust it will always properly work
Glad to hear you're having some success. What was the word on the 4x4? How does it work? that will help me when I get back to my Xplorer.
Re: One thing I noticed on my terminal board is it says I'm supposed to have a yellow and red wire from the stator connected to the board? But only wires coming from stator go to cdi and voltage regulator no connections for terminal board weird..
I can check my terminal board to see if there is a wire from the board to the CDI. I'll get back to you later this week on that.
Re: Am I able to just unplug the one black hose going from oil tank to oil pump and that completely deletes the oil injector? I don't trust it I know every one will say it's better to have it for various reasons but I just don't think I trust it will always properly work
Generally, these gear driven oil pumps are incredibly reliable. If the engine is running and there is oil in the tank, your oil injection is working. I've read that the electrically driven oil pumps that are often on outboard motors are not as reliable. But I understand your concern. The failure mechanism if it does go out is a blown engine. It really sucks that there is no warning system beyond a light that comes on if you run out of oil but that is how it is.
To answer your question, yes just cut the hose that goes from the tank to the pump and plug each end will result in no oil injection. By leaving all the hoses on and plugging each end you will eliminate the chance of foreign material getting sucked into the system. But as I said above if you do that then it looks like you have a fully functional oil injection system and someone else might put pure gas in and blow your engine anyway. I recommend just cutting that hose near the oil injection pump, plugging it and then removing the oil tank up front so it is obvious there is no oil injection. It is just a little more work and simple to do if your atv is apart anyway. This is what I did with the 1987 trail boss I rebuilt. But I've kept the oil injection on my Xplorer after learning how reliable the gear driven pumps are. Hopefully this doesn't backfire on me.
As for the 4 wheel drive mine is extremely confusing lol it's kinda redneck rigged I think so I will try my best to describe it without sounding confusing
On the left strut there is a brown wire and a Grey wire very thin gauge that go to the terminal board grey and brown areas
On the right strut this where it seems to be rigged there is 2 big wires white and grey I put the big grey wire on the grey slot on the terminal board but the white wire i put that one in the (red with white) section don't ask why I decided to put it there cuz I don't know lol but now.... I have 4x4 all the time with the key on the 4x4 that lights up dosent work so I disconnected it and 4x4 still works
So ya weird scenario but with the key on and the white wire in the red and white section of the terminal board I now have full time 4x4 BUT
I'm going to put a toggle switch between white wire and terminal board So I can still choose when I want to use 4x4 cuz I'm sure full time would be a pain
So if any of that makes sense to you that's how my 4x4 works lol
And thanks for info on oil injection I dident know it was gear driving I thought it was a electrical pump I may leave it in there now but I think mixing gas is still better I need to free up some room for snorkels
Do you happen to know where I can find a lift kit for the front of this bike? I can make one for the rear my self but is there any kits that just go on the top of the shock mounts or any thing I can do to do it my self trying to make this atv a nice Lil mud bug got it for cheap so might as well
RE: And it says in manual I'm supposed to have a wire coming from stator that plugs into terminal board
I'll check my atv later this week to see if I have a wire from the stator to the board.
Check this out for a lift kit
Not sure it will work for a 1995 sportsman though so buyer beware. This is technically only compatible with sportsman from 1997 and newer but it might drop in or need minimal rework. Please note I know NOTHING about lift kits and this was done with a google search. Others might know more about these kits. Heck once you see what the parts look like maybe you could build your own lift kit.
Thanks for providing what you did to address your 4x4 challenge.
RE: the big grey wire on the grey slot on the terminal board but the white wire i put that one in the (red with white) section.
I think the white wire goes on the terminal board on the left side on the 3rd connector block from the top. There are only two contact points for the White wire. Maybe if you put the white wire on the White connector block then the 4x4 switch will work properly. Give that a try before you wire in an extra switch.
Edit - See attachment annotating where white wires go on the terminal board.
Last edited by pigseye; Oct 2, 2019 at 01:42 PM.
Reason: added attachment
I think I'm gunna keep the 4x4 the way it is and add the toggle between white and terminal board cuz my switch in the gear shifter for the 4x4 is gone bad I have to hold the the shifter in full forward for 4x4 light to kick in so I pretty much just by passed that switch all together
Well I've made so much progress these past 2 days I got the starter and silionoid and hooked everything up and the start button turns the starter thank God
I got sick of trouble shooting kill switch issues so I hooked the brown wire from kill switch up to the white and blue wire going from cdi to coil and it now ***** the spark off in the off position
Hooked up toggle for 4x4 it turns it on and off
Bought a led light bar replacing high beam and hooked it to high beem plug bought 2 small led hooked then to low beams they all turn on and off
Im make shifting new light bulbs into the N R HIGH BEAM TEMP LIGHT indicators since I'm to cheap to buy new oem lights they all working
Everything is starting to look pretty good
Couple questions not sure if you can answer them but the ETC is it necessary that it's hooked up? I k ow probably for safety reasons people will say yes but is it mandatory for the engine to run properly or no? And also have you checked if there is wires going from stator to terminal board those are my last 2 wiring issues I need to trouble shoot I more then apreceate all the time you have taken to help me its great to have a person like you on this forum
Congrats on the progress! So great to hear. What a relief to have a working starter. Also glad to hear that you came up with a kill switch alternative. Not ideal but at least it is functional.
My understanding is that the ETC is not required for the engine to run properly. I've not had any ETC problems once the throttle cable is properly set so i wouldn't want to operate an ATV without this safety feature if it had it originally. But apparently you can disconnect the ETC and the engine will run fine. Note that without the ETC if your throttle cable ever gets stuck wide open and you release the throttle lever your engine will be running wide open and you'll have to hit the kill switch or ignition switch to turn it off. That is if you're still on the atv. My real concern is falling off the atv with a stuck throttle cable and having it take off on its own wide open. Incredibly dangerous.
Sorry I haven't had time to check my stator wiring yet. Been super busy but will try to get to it tonight.