Improvements
#12
11-27-1999, 11:08 PM
The main thing that I would like to see is a : Front brake only on the right side of the handlebar. I also wouldn't mind having the oil tank out from under the left front fender. Don't care for the overide button either.
I like the rear end on my 98 Sportsman 500 better than the rear on my brothers 2000 Sportsman's,,, He does too. We both prefer u-joints over cv boots.
Would also like to be able to be in 4wd when going down a hill
See ya, RedDog
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I like the rear end on my 98 Sportsman 500 better than the rear on my brothers 2000 Sportsman's,,, He does too. We both prefer u-joints over cv boots.
Would also like to be able to be in 4wd when going down a hill
See ya, RedDog
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#14
11-28-1999, 09:57 AM
Another thing that would be really nice would be a sight tube along the rearward side of the oil reservoir for checking its level. It could be done well enough to be protected. Farm machinery has them.
I’ve never had water in my PVT cover but a drain plug is a good idea. I had snow in there once, same difference when it hits the heat. Had to rev it for awhile to dry it out.
I personally don’t like CV protectors with a bottom. A buddy had them on his Griz and they collected soooo much crap on them. Than one would be an advantage to some and a disadvantage to others depending on your riding conditions.
About the headlight situation, I’ve had a pushbutton switch wired between the high and low beams on a ’97, ’98 and ’99 Sportsman and my wife’s ’99 Magnum with no problems at all. In fact, on my current ’99 RSE Sportsman I have a pair of halogen auxiliary lights between the metal bumper tubes and when I hit the switch all five lights go on at once. Someone once told me it looked like a space ship coming at them at night! Anyway, with all these lights on plus electric hand warmers and a thumb warmer in the cold weather that’s a lot of extra current draw and I’ve had no problems with the electrical systems on any of these machines.
I had an idea yesterday that I can’t believe I didn’t think of before. All one really needs to do is patch a diode of sufficient capacity between the hot wires for the high and low beams so when the switch is on low the low beams are on alone and when the switch is on high all three (or 5, in my case) will light up. That eliminates the extra switch and simplifies the whole thing. Do to the muddy, dusty, rainy snowy conditions we often ride in that switch has given me a little trouble occasionally. It would be nice to do without it.
For those of you who don’t know, a diode is like a check valve, or one way valve. It allows current to flow through it one way but not the other. Radio Shack has them and they’re cheap. All one has to do is install the diode between the hot wires for the high and low beams coming from the handlebar switch. Install it so that when the switch is on low the current can’t run through the diode to the high beam hot wire but when the switch is on high the current can run through the diode to the low beam hot wire.
I plan to do this sometime this week. If anyone wants more specifics like wire colors etc. I’ll be happy to provide them via personal e-mail after I perform the operation. Just ask.
And another (wiring) thing, thanks to instructions from Jack Schultz (posted on Adams webpage I think) both our machines have had their reverse override buttons “overridden” and now that little yellow button operates a “Beep Beep” roadrunner horn from JC Whitney.
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FloodRunner, on the Wisconsin River
I’ve never had water in my PVT cover but a drain plug is a good idea. I had snow in there once, same difference when it hits the heat. Had to rev it for awhile to dry it out.
I personally don’t like CV protectors with a bottom. A buddy had them on his Griz and they collected soooo much crap on them. Than one would be an advantage to some and a disadvantage to others depending on your riding conditions.
About the headlight situation, I’ve had a pushbutton switch wired between the high and low beams on a ’97, ’98 and ’99 Sportsman and my wife’s ’99 Magnum with no problems at all. In fact, on my current ’99 RSE Sportsman I have a pair of halogen auxiliary lights between the metal bumper tubes and when I hit the switch all five lights go on at once. Someone once told me it looked like a space ship coming at them at night! Anyway, with all these lights on plus electric hand warmers and a thumb warmer in the cold weather that’s a lot of extra current draw and I’ve had no problems with the electrical systems on any of these machines.
I had an idea yesterday that I can’t believe I didn’t think of before. All one really needs to do is patch a diode of sufficient capacity between the hot wires for the high and low beams so when the switch is on low the low beams are on alone and when the switch is on high all three (or 5, in my case) will light up. That eliminates the extra switch and simplifies the whole thing. Do to the muddy, dusty, rainy snowy conditions we often ride in that switch has given me a little trouble occasionally. It would be nice to do without it.
For those of you who don’t know, a diode is like a check valve, or one way valve. It allows current to flow through it one way but not the other. Radio Shack has them and they’re cheap. All one has to do is install the diode between the hot wires for the high and low beams coming from the handlebar switch. Install it so that when the switch is on low the current can’t run through the diode to the high beam hot wire but when the switch is on high the current can run through the diode to the low beam hot wire.
I plan to do this sometime this week. If anyone wants more specifics like wire colors etc. I’ll be happy to provide them via personal e-mail after I perform the operation. Just ask.
And another (wiring) thing, thanks to instructions from Jack Schultz (posted on Adams webpage I think) both our machines have had their reverse override buttons “overridden” and now that little yellow button operates a “Beep Beep” roadrunner horn from JC Whitney.
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FloodRunner, on the Wisconsin River
#15
11-28-1999, 09:59 AM
Floodrunner; I would like to see that. I had the same plans, I have been running the half switch deal for a long time and have had no problems but since I went to a 130 watt High beam bulb I decided I might try it. I am going to asume your E-mail is in your profile. I don't have mine listed but I will give it to anyone who request it. I will E-mail you in the next few days.
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Kevin Gowdy aka Kagey 1999 Polaris Magnum 500
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Kevin Gowdy aka Kagey 1999 Polaris Magnum 500
#16
11-28-1999, 10:51 AM
#17
11-28-1999, 01:15 PM
Put the 4X4's on a diet. Way too heavy on some of these compared to other ATV brands. Yamaha somehow shaved 60lbs off the 98 Grizz. Polaris can do it and they need to. Make the oil fill/check easier to get to without using a long flex funnel. And also some of the grease points on the Sportsman 500 could be located for better access. Mainly the one under the pod and the other on rt side of engine beside the foot brake. Always tricky getting to those two. The steering could use a little help too. Something has always been wrong with Polaris front ends being loose. Maybe those tie rod ends are too flimsy but they alway feel loose. Overall, love my Sportsman but a few changes would make it even better.
#18
11-30-1999, 07:04 AM
Over the years, a lot of people have written how-to bypass the over-ride button, add a horn or backup light.
Why don't one of you electrical guru's figure out how to force it to engage the 4wd (save me a lot of time & effort
)? Everybody complains about the 4wd not engaging when going down hill, and sometimes it would be better if you could force it into 4wd *before* the wheels spin.
For example: one day I drove up to a small vertical embankment .. maybe a foot high. I put it in 4wd and attempted to "climb" over. Well, since the 4wd doesn't engage until the rear wheels slip, the 500 groaned & strained, spun the back wheels enough to engage the 4wd, and then shot nearly vertical as it jumped up that embankment under full power. It would have been much better if I could have forced the 4wd to lock up then have the front wheels help pull it up at partial throttle.
Until we work out how to manually lock 4wd, the trick is to make sure the 4wd gets engaged *before* you need it.
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Tim Bundrick '98 Polaris Sportsman 500 '00 Yamaha Kodiak
Why don't one of you electrical guru's figure out how to force it to engage the 4wd (save me a lot of time & effort
)? Everybody complains about the 4wd not engaging when going down hill, and sometimes it would be better if you could force it into 4wd *before* the wheels spin. For example: one day I drove up to a small vertical embankment .. maybe a foot high. I put it in 4wd and attempted to "climb" over. Well, since the 4wd doesn't engage until the rear wheels slip, the 500 groaned & strained, spun the back wheels enough to engage the 4wd, and then shot nearly vertical as it jumped up that embankment under full power. It would have been much better if I could have forced the 4wd to lock up then have the front wheels help pull it up at partial throttle.
Until we work out how to manually lock 4wd, the trick is to make sure the 4wd gets engaged *before* you need it.
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Tim Bundrick '98 Polaris Sportsman 500 '00 Yamaha Kodiak
#19
11-30-1999, 07:59 AM
I’m going to put together a comprehensive post for accomplishing the various versions of the rev limiter override, the headlight mod, backup light hookup and horn mod as soon as later this week or as late as the middle of next. It will probably be in a new thread entitled “Electric Mods” or something so everyone will have a chance to see it.
I can’t tell you how to modify the engagement of the AWD though, so I guess that blows my “guru” qualification. ’00 Yamaha Kodiak?????? OK Tim, what’s the story?
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FloodRunner, on the Wisconsin River
I can’t tell you how to modify the engagement of the AWD though, so I guess that blows my “guru” qualification. ’00 Yamaha Kodiak?????? OK Tim, what’s the story?
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FloodRunner, on the Wisconsin River
#20
11-30-1999, 10:21 AM
