I would start by checking each wire with an ohm meter, go from one point to another and look for an open or corroded connection. Sounds like you checked everything else.

------------------
99 Sportsman 500

 

yeah, I plan to do that as soon as I get some time...I'll disconnect every wire from the circuit board, clean it, reconnect all of them to their proper place, and trace all of the wires back to their root...I've been told that it is common for wires to get melted and ground themselves out.

Thanks for your help everyone...this board has inspired me to try my best to get my machine fixed, and get back on the trails

[This message has been edited by BornToMUD (edited 12-10-1999).]

 

ok...now its time to kill myself.

I unplugged each and every wire, sprayed all of the metal connections on the circuit board with WD40, cleaned them, plugged them all back up...but it still doesn't spark.

Now I'm thinking about the ignition...hmm.

 

Born,
Try the kill/run switch. I had an electrical problem awhile back... (NO SPARK.. sound familiar??) One thing I did was to pull the run/kill switch apart.. after scraping the mud and corrosion off it, they darn thing actually slid back and forth... Didn't help MY particular problem, but it did work afterwards.
Make sure you have voltage going into your coil...
Does your electric starter work (if equipped)
Is your battery charged up?..
Double check the key switch to make sure that when in the ON position, that there is power LEAVING the switch.. NOT just coming into, but LEAVING the switch. Follow that power to where it takes you, and double check that... and so on...
I do know that if your Magnetic pickup (PULSER) has a crack in it, it wont run. What it will do is spark after youve pulled on it (or spun it with the electric start.) It will be prone to throw a dim spark when you shut the ignition back off. That is, IF you are close to ground. I usually use a sparkplug and secure it to the side of the engine, that way, there is a predetermined amout of gap to watch for a spark.
Good Luck...

 

Mudmachine thanks for the input!

One of the first things I did was pull my kill switch apart, it looks ok...it is a very simple device, I really don't see what could cause it to not work...I even replaced the spring that lays behind it to ensure that it sustains true contact when you kill it.

As for as the ignition switch goes, it looks ok...it has four wires going to it -

1)a black wire
2)a brown wire
3)a red/white wire
4)a red wire

According to my wiring diagram, when 1 & 2 are crossed (off), it is disabling the ignition. If 3 & 4 are crossed (on), it powers up the machine.

I checked wires 1 & 2 for resistance when it is in the on position, and they have no continuity.

My battery is charged up, and I took my electric starter out a while back to lose some weight...

Also, I checked with an OLM Meter to see if the coil was getting any voltage from the CDI...but I don't think it is getting any.

Earlier I followed my ignition system's wires back to the engine...I noticed 3 were frayed, so I taped them up, I do see that they are out of the rubber hose down by my case, and I'm about to check on those.

The first time I fixed this problem, I replaced the CDI module...along with the pulser coil, so I don't think those are the problem...my high tention coil was tested by a local dealer and it appears to be ok.

I'm thinking that it is a loose connection, but Its just finding it...

Still working on it...I'll keep you guys updated, hopefully soon I can tell you what the problem was

Trent

 

what does the speed limiter do? would this effect the ignition system?

 

Im sorry I dont have the spec with me now but you need to check your CDI charge coil mounted on the stator. There are certain ohme specs to make sure that it is good still. I have seen in the tech manual tests for the CDI using a peak voltage adapter for digital multimeters that might help if you have access to one. Make sure the coil is well grouded with a star washer under it or the paint scraped off. Use jumper wires to bypass suspicous switches or portions of wiring harness. good luck
Charlie
PS once the black wire is disconnected it should not affect the ignition anymore accept that the safty system will not work for you if you need it. If the stator has been worked on before, double check it to make sure it was done right especially if you found frayed wires.

[This message has been edited by Charlie (edited 12-11-1999).]

[This message has been edited by Charlie (edited 12-12-1999).]

 

Sorry it took me so long to reply but I had to get my old trailboss out of the back of the garage to check out the voltage coming from the impulse coil to the cdi box.
The three wires from the from the impulse coils to the cdi box by the oil tank under the dash, pull the plug apart and check the voltage on the two wires that are not white (I didnt refer to there color because they may be different but the white wire is there on all models)with the Volt meter setting on AC at 50 volts test the voltage. With the engine spinning my voltage was 30 volts.

I hope this helps if not E-mail me and I will test other components on my trailboss.

 

I ahd this type of problem before with a street bike. Find out where the cdi box grounds to the frame and clean the contact point. I assumed it was fine when the lights would come on but it wasn't a good enough contact to spark the plug.

hope this helps
JBIRD