'HEEL CLICKERS INSTALLED'here are a few results!
#12
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]I Guess my first question would be, do you have a tach? If you don't then you should get one.A two stroke motor's power falls off fast when the rpms are above or below the pipes designed powerband. As you have seen with your engagement, a 2-300rpm can make a world of difference. first you need to know your engagement,shiftout, and peak rpms. Next PSI should have a recomended rpm where the pipe gives the most power. Enough about that for now. My experience with healclickers is with sleds everything applys. Unless HCs are different for atvs then there is no need for any more than the spring that came with it. HCs by design require a staight or reverse angle helix, if you installed them with a progessive helix this is probly your bog problem. Progressive helixes work with regular weights by shifting out fast at the start. this causes bog with HCs. Also there should be screws and washers on the heal of the weight, removing washers or using lighter bolts wil raise engagement rpms with little or no effect on peak rpms.Hope i've helped , if i hav'nt then i'll try again.
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#13
To clear it up. Your weights are the same as your hot seat kit. 58 grams probably. However with the heel clickers having the weighted shoulder adds more force at lower rpms than a standard style weight. This is why even with such a heavy spring your bike engages almost at a stock RPM. Too bad about your low range wheelies but if you get an even stiffer primary (or by removing some weight like the screw and nut or even a washer) and raise your engagement rpms you will wheelie like crazy again.
As far as my results went. I had another problem when I did my little tests with the heel clickers in I left the belt housing off to get the weighting the way I wanted then I busted my clutch buttons. I got my roller clutch in and got everything just the way I wanted, put my belt housing back on and noticed that the weights started to rub the belt housing. Needless to say I had to send the kit back. Randy said they are making another set of weights with a smaller shoulder for bikes with less clearance in the belt housing. So back to the waitng game for me I guess.
As far as my results went. I had another problem when I did my little tests with the heel clickers in I left the belt housing off to get the weighting the way I wanted then I busted my clutch buttons. I got my roller clutch in and got everything just the way I wanted, put my belt housing back on and noticed that the weights started to rub the belt housing. Needless to say I had to send the kit back. Randy said they are making another set of weights with a smaller shoulder for bikes with less clearance in the belt housing. So back to the waitng game for me I guess.
#14
Bubba,
I talked to Randy[Super Torquer] yesterday,he said that the clutch spring that is installed in my Xplorer is for a Sportsman HO.The Hot Seat weights are 55 grams,not 58.He will be back in town this Thursday and said he would straighten that out for me.He has a tach and said he would go try and make it to the dealership to correct my low end problem.
I have no problems with my belt cover,at least not yet.
Bill
I talked to Randy[Super Torquer] yesterday,he said that the clutch spring that is installed in my Xplorer is for a Sportsman HO.The Hot Seat weights are 55 grams,not 58.He will be back in town this Thursday and said he would straighten that out for me.He has a tach and said he would go try and make it to the dealership to correct my low end problem.
I have no problems with my belt cover,at least not yet.
Bill
#15
When you add the bolt and nut to the hole in the middle it makes the weights 58 grams. dont add weight to the bottom hole because there is clearance issues with the spider. Also there is a set screw on the heel of the weight, by removing it and adding a button head bolt you can make even more power, provided you have the clearance in your belt housing. This is the good part about the weights there are so many ways to change the weight to fine tune your clutch. The bad part is I'm waiting again.
#16
Hold on there. Adding weight is the wrong way to go. Removing weght increases rpms thats the direction Muddy4 needs to be heading. Removing weight from the heal will improve the clearence issue. Again I would check to make sure your mechanic didn't leave the multy angle helix in the secondary. One thing I've found out the exspensive way is that even the best mechanics suck once during the day and that today is usually your day. Check everthing yourself. Love to hear the results. What angle helix and spring did they recomend with that kit? Text[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img]
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#18
... your atv's too slow? doesen't everybody say that? What I never get to hear is that their "Too Fast"
4xWhore is right about less weight = higher rpm engagment... a lighter weight has to spin faster to put the same amount of pressure on the sheaves as a heavier weight.
The clickers throw as much as possible without the engine bogging, if it lugs the motor down, you went too far. ( load it, not overload it )and if you take off too much weight, your defeating the benefits of the weights in the first place.
Is your atv pulling a steady rpm off the bottom and then climbing after you get past the flat spot or is the rpm's DROPPING because of too much weight and then raising?
I think it's probably your mid/high-range pipe that has the problem at low rpm's, not the clickers overloading the clutch.
And if memory servers me correctly, the EBS secondary kit for the 400 is a steep multi-angled helix because of the rollers just like the HO 500... (don't quote me, but I'll look into it)
lifes too slow, think fast !
4xWhore is right about less weight = higher rpm engagment... a lighter weight has to spin faster to put the same amount of pressure on the sheaves as a heavier weight.
The clickers throw as much as possible without the engine bogging, if it lugs the motor down, you went too far. ( load it, not overload it )and if you take off too much weight, your defeating the benefits of the weights in the first place.
Is your atv pulling a steady rpm off the bottom and then climbing after you get past the flat spot or is the rpm's DROPPING because of too much weight and then raising?
I think it's probably your mid/high-range pipe that has the problem at low rpm's, not the clickers overloading the clutch.
And if memory servers me correctly, the EBS secondary kit for the 400 is a steep multi-angled helix because of the rollers just like the HO 500... (don't quote me, but I'll look into it)
lifes too slow, think fast !
#19
TooFast,
it seems like the ATV takes off like a Diesel,than when it gets to a certain rpm or about 8mph,it ROCKS!
I aggree that the pipe is a mid/high range pipe,however,for some reason with my Hot Seat clutch kit,my low range take off was much better.My engagement speed with the Heel Clickers is much lower than that of Hot Seats to.After initial take off,there seems to be no comparison in the two kits.The Clickers start to really do their job.
Anyways,
I'll be checking with my mechanic tommorrow [Randy from Super Torquer is suppose to be back to]and I'll let them know about the muti angled Helix to.I dis-like losing my low end.Thanks to all,
Bill
''Its not to slow,after 8mph''
it seems like the ATV takes off like a Diesel,than when it gets to a certain rpm or about 8mph,it ROCKS!
I aggree that the pipe is a mid/high range pipe,however,for some reason with my Hot Seat clutch kit,my low range take off was much better.My engagement speed with the Heel Clickers is much lower than that of Hot Seats to.After initial take off,there seems to be no comparison in the two kits.The Clickers start to really do their job.
Anyways,
I'll be checking with my mechanic tommorrow [Randy from Super Torquer is suppose to be back to]and I'll let them know about the muti angled Helix to.I dis-like losing my low end.Thanks to all,
Bill
''Its not to slow,after 8mph''


