HPD Roller Clutch - Installation tips??
#1
08-02-2001, 09:45 AM
I have ordered the HPD roller clutch for my Xplorer 400, and am wondering what tools I will need to install it. I have read that some grinding, drilling, and possibly tapping are necessary, and would like to know exactly what has to be ground. I have already removed my driven clutch, and disassembled it, so that I can better understand any instructions from you guys. I will have to purchase a dremel tool and/or drill to modify, and would like to know what attachments would be good for grinding in this application. I would also like to know what spring and spring preload setting will work best for my stock machine. I do have a Boyesen rad valve and Maxxis Suretracks (25"
, but other than that, my bike is pretty much stock. Thanks for any responses.
Waylan
, but other than that, my bike is pretty much stock. Thanks for any responses.Waylan
#2
08-02-2001, 10:55 AM
#4
08-02-2001, 12:20 PM
I just installed the HPD roller conversion on my Xplorer (thanks Rick) and it wasn't to bad.If you get the installation instructions from Rick they are pretty self explanitory. I can tell you that you will definately need a torque wrench and a Torx socket (can't remember the exact torx #) to pull everything together, its a pretty tight fit, I just kept going around the screws until they were all at 8 ftlbs. I installed the violet spring with the roller and set the tension to 11 pounds according to the chart with the instructions. My only mods are a green spring in the primary and K&N filter and now the roller conversion. Now, and it is probably because of the violet spring more than the roller, my high range take off feels almost like low range take off and it seems to get to the top alot faster. Let us know how it turns out.
#5
08-06-2001, 03:24 PM
skidkid,
I got my HPD roller clutch in. Which holes (3-3?) did you put the secondary spring in, and about how many degrees did you turn the clutch before pressing the roller in to achieve the 11 lbs? I don't have a fish scale, but can get one if I have to. Also, are you still pleased with your roller clutch? Thanks.
Waylan
I got my HPD roller clutch in. Which holes (3-3?) did you put the secondary spring in, and about how many degrees did you turn the clutch before pressing the roller in to achieve the 11 lbs? I don't have a fish scale, but can get one if I have to. Also, are you still pleased with your roller clutch? Thanks.
Waylan
#6
08-06-2001, 10:44 PM
I don't have the chart anymore but I think that for 11 pounds with a violet spring it went in the #1 hole on the non-moveable sheeve and in the #6 hole on the moveable ( the non-moveable has only 1 thru 3 and the rolloer conversion has 1 thru 7). When you put it together its just like the stock one, you start it on the splines and turn the moveable sheeve 1/3 counterclockwise until the roller lines up with the groove and push it on down and secure with snap ring. I just rode in a poker run this weekend and I was very happy. Like I said before the high range take off almost feels like low range ( once again that is probably from going to the violet spring, I also put a new belt on when I was in there).
I am having a problem that I have seen some other posts on. When I get into deep water and mud (almost to the seat) it will start to spit and sputter clear down to idle and stay there just a second or two and then the power will come back up like nothing happened and on through it goes, in the long holes it would do this more than once. I have put dialectric grease on every connection I can find, filled the spark plug boot at the plug and where the wire goes in the boot. Have you had any problems with this?
I am having a problem that I have seen some other posts on. When I get into deep water and mud (almost to the seat) it will start to spit and sputter clear down to idle and stay there just a second or two and then the power will come back up like nothing happened and on through it goes, in the long holes it would do this more than once. I have put dialectric grease on every connection I can find, filled the spark plug boot at the plug and where the wire goes in the boot. Have you had any problems with this?
#7
08-07-2001, 09:08 AM
Skidkid,
Yes, I have had this problem since my bike was new. I have posted, and really haven't gotten any "good" responses, or at least any that solved my problem. I've tried jetting down on the main jet, since it seemed like it was a rich induced problem, with my bike loading up, but jetting down didn't help any. One thing to check for sure is the exhaust outlet. You won't notice unless you look up into it, but that thing can get mud packed into it. Mine started feeling sluggish, and one day I just happened to look in there. It was plugged down to the size of a dime. Cleaned it out, and she would scream again. I don't really think my problem is electrical in nature, since I can ride through deep water in short runs without any problems. I'm probably wrong, but I think it might have something to do with backpressure when the muffler is down in the mud. I haven't heard or seen anybody experiencing my problem running an aftermarket exhaust and silencer. I want to get one, but there isn't one offered that is quiet, which is a must. RCR should be coming out with one in 6 months or so. One thing that I have done is took the muffler off and took it to a muffler shop. I got them to cut the stock outlet pipe off, and make me a new bent one that bends 90 degrees and comes out flush with the end of the muffler. I think this will at least help keep mud from getting pushed up in it. I haven't had a chance to test it out to see if it still loads up in mudholes.
As to the roller clutch......I called Mike at HPD, and he recommended the same setting you set yours to (6-1, 1/3 turn). I didn't get to ride mine much, but it felt really strong after I got it installed. The engagement with the white spring wasn't too bad either. I was worried that it might be more harsh, but it wasn't. I should be able to take it riding one evening this week, and I'm anxious to do so. One other thing I noticed was that my belt deflection was a little too much......my bike had 3 shims between the driven pulleys, and I removed 2 of them. 2 of the 3 were thick, and 1 was thin. I removed a thin one and a thick one, and left one thick one in there. This caused my belt to ride higher in the driven pulley, and my belt deflection is correct now.
BTW, on your Xplorer, is the yoke on the back of the front gear box real tight? Mine has a little wiggle to it if you grab the drive shaft and try to move it back and forth. I have heard it was the roll pin, but it seems to me that the splined fitting should be tight with or without the roll pin. I'm thinking of replacing mine before it wears the shaft.
Yes, I have had this problem since my bike was new. I have posted, and really haven't gotten any "good" responses, or at least any that solved my problem. I've tried jetting down on the main jet, since it seemed like it was a rich induced problem, with my bike loading up, but jetting down didn't help any. One thing to check for sure is the exhaust outlet. You won't notice unless you look up into it, but that thing can get mud packed into it. Mine started feeling sluggish, and one day I just happened to look in there. It was plugged down to the size of a dime. Cleaned it out, and she would scream again. I don't really think my problem is electrical in nature, since I can ride through deep water in short runs without any problems. I'm probably wrong, but I think it might have something to do with backpressure when the muffler is down in the mud. I haven't heard or seen anybody experiencing my problem running an aftermarket exhaust and silencer. I want to get one, but there isn't one offered that is quiet, which is a must. RCR should be coming out with one in 6 months or so. One thing that I have done is took the muffler off and took it to a muffler shop. I got them to cut the stock outlet pipe off, and make me a new bent one that bends 90 degrees and comes out flush with the end of the muffler. I think this will at least help keep mud from getting pushed up in it. I haven't had a chance to test it out to see if it still loads up in mudholes.
As to the roller clutch......I called Mike at HPD, and he recommended the same setting you set yours to (6-1, 1/3 turn). I didn't get to ride mine much, but it felt really strong after I got it installed. The engagement with the white spring wasn't too bad either. I was worried that it might be more harsh, but it wasn't. I should be able to take it riding one evening this week, and I'm anxious to do so. One other thing I noticed was that my belt deflection was a little too much......my bike had 3 shims between the driven pulleys, and I removed 2 of them. 2 of the 3 were thick, and 1 was thin. I removed a thin one and a thick one, and left one thick one in there. This caused my belt to ride higher in the driven pulley, and my belt deflection is correct now.
BTW, on your Xplorer, is the yoke on the back of the front gear box real tight? Mine has a little wiggle to it if you grab the drive shaft and try to move it back and forth. I have heard it was the roll pin, but it seems to me that the splined fitting should be tight with or without the roll pin. I'm thinking of replacing mine before it wears the shaft.
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#8
08-07-2001, 10:15 AM
#9
08-07-2001, 11:28 AM
Walexa,
I thought that my belt deflection may be a little excessive also but I started it without the cover on and it looked like it might grab to much or creep if I took out any shims. Maybe I should take it back apart and play around with it.
It was me that posted to change the roll pin on the yoke. My right front and front drive shaft yokes had slight movement. The mechanic at my dealers said to change the roll pin and that would fix it. I thought he was crazy because just like you I thought that the splines on the yoke would keep it tighter than that. But, he's the mechanic so I changed the roll pins and it is tight as new.
I have checked my pipe opening also and it was not plugged. I'm like you in the aftermarket situation, they don't make them quiet enough. I have wondered about the drain line that Greg mentioned, I don't have mine plugged. The last time that I was out I also got water in my counter balance oil also. I presume that it came in through a vent line (not sure) and I want to re-route all my vent lines into my headlight pod but I have not go around to it yet.
Greg,
Can you plug that line or does it have to be able to vent. I would really like to get it to stop bogging down. It is kind of embarassing when it happens but then the power comes back and I still make it through holes that other people are left setting in. Thanks for the info.
Dave
I thought that my belt deflection may be a little excessive also but I started it without the cover on and it looked like it might grab to much or creep if I took out any shims. Maybe I should take it back apart and play around with it.
It was me that posted to change the roll pin on the yoke. My right front and front drive shaft yokes had slight movement. The mechanic at my dealers said to change the roll pin and that would fix it. I thought he was crazy because just like you I thought that the splines on the yoke would keep it tighter than that. But, he's the mechanic so I changed the roll pins and it is tight as new.
I have checked my pipe opening also and it was not plugged. I'm like you in the aftermarket situation, they don't make them quiet enough. I have wondered about the drain line that Greg mentioned, I don't have mine plugged. The last time that I was out I also got water in my counter balance oil also. I presume that it came in through a vent line (not sure) and I want to re-route all my vent lines into my headlight pod but I have not go around to it yet.
Greg,
Can you plug that line or does it have to be able to vent. I would really like to get it to stop bogging down. It is kind of embarassing when it happens but then the power comes back and I still make it through holes that other people are left setting in. Thanks for the info.
Dave
#10
08-07-2001, 11:38 AM
Greg,
I used to have a Sportsman 500, and temporarily plugging the drain line off the carb was the trick to keep it running in deep water. However, on this 2-stroke, bogging is caused by something different. It is like it loads up......getting too much fuel or something. It runs great at all other times, even when doing deep creek crossings. I think that if back pressure is held on the exhaust for an extended amount of time, it causes the machine to run rich and bog. I haven't really found an answer on this forum to the problem, so my guess is all I have to go on.
BTW, where have you been? I don't think I've seen you on the forum for quite some time. I myself have been off of it for several months. I'm guessing you still have a sp500 and go to FWP occasionally.
I used to have a Sportsman 500, and temporarily plugging the drain line off the carb was the trick to keep it running in deep water. However, on this 2-stroke, bogging is caused by something different. It is like it loads up......getting too much fuel or something. It runs great at all other times, even when doing deep creek crossings. I think that if back pressure is held on the exhaust for an extended amount of time, it causes the machine to run rich and bog. I haven't really found an answer on this forum to the problem, so my guess is all I have to go on.
BTW, where have you been? I don't think I've seen you on the forum for quite some time. I myself have been off of it for several months. I'm guessing you still have a sp500 and go to FWP occasionally.