Capt,

The part # is the master cylinder for the 6x6. If you can get a right side master cylinder cheaper somewhere else, go for it. Just make sure it uses 10 X 1 metric threads. This is what the brake line uses when it mounts to the master cylinder.

I haven't been riding much either. Celeste got a 9-5 weekends and holidays off type job. I work third shift and get weekends off only once a month or so. We hope to do some riding this up coming weekend and the next, though.

Modquad,

I must have missed that posting. Either way, the Sport was in a million pieces, I just cut the brake line with my 5" Cold Steel Voyager and it was only then that I realized the fittings were different. Needless to say I went into full "OH SHOOT!" (not the word I used, but this is a family forum) mode. My Polaris dealer is about 50 miles away (one way) and the auto parts store was only a mile and a half, so I went there. I made sure I was careful with the teflon tape and am going to try the drilled brake rotors. What is the EBC from Hot Seat?

 

Mike,
The EBC brake rotor, for the rear. I've had great luck with the HPD drilled units up front. Daryl doesn't make, or offer any rear modded rotors.....Too bad FTR, I mean G-force couldn't come through with the larger rear rotor they had. I've said it once, and I'll say it again, they had some trick stuff, they were very helpful and friendly on the phone, but when someone gives you false UPS tracking numbers and tells you your order is on the way, well, that kinda seals their fate. Good luck. I think all the newer brake components are 10mm, so mixing and matching shouldn't be a problem. Even on the sand at Silver Lake, when I hit the brakes, my nuts get planted on the gas-tank.

Ken
Jet mechanics love to fly on the ground!!!!

 

modquad,

I just checked the application charts for the EBC rotors and they don't make a rear one for mine. I have the OLD model Sport (pre-comcentric drive). It still sucks to be me. I might go with the front brakes via HPD, but I do have one question. Don't the drilled rotors wear the pads quicker when used in the mud? I do like the idea that they are lighter and all that, but I don't want to have to replace brake pads every time out.

 

Mike,
I ran into the same thing with my '99 Sport. Give Hot Seat a call, don't rely on the application guide, one of the others might work. By the way, did you get the extra banjo bolt and washer/gasket? You'll need these for the foot brake. That line is kinda long, but I just used a few adel clamps on the foot cyl. mount bolts, and ran/secured the line with those. I still would like to try the newest master cyl, to see if that improves the braking even more. Also, if you use the 440 Pro X master cylinder, resist the temptation to leave the handy short style finger lever on it.......Daryl (HPD) skolded me for that, just after he got on me for putting 3M vinyl protectant on the seat. First he almost slid off, then he couldn't stop fast enough. He and Mike were beyond cool in making sure my clutches were spot on for some upcoming testing.....YOU CAN'T BEAT GREAT CUSTOMER SERVICE!

KT

 

modquad,

I used the standard 10 X 1 metric thread on my brake line to mate it up with my Magura master cylinder, no banjo bolt required. As for the foot brake, that was mechanical and went into the trash heap long ago. I must have removed over 5 lbs of weight with just those parts alone. Like I said, I have an OLD model Sport (pre concentric drive). My rear brake is still on the countershaft, not the axle like the newer ones. Come to think of it, I rather prefer it there. It's out of the way, and I don't have to worry about it getting banged up on rocks. In some ways I do wish I had the hydraulic rear brake pedal, but I'm still unwilling to sacrifice the rear brake being on the counter shaft for it.

 

Hey Mike

I have just done a similar thing on my 96 Scrambler. I ordered up some scooter masters and levers from magura (Scooter masters are available in L & R fittings) and added some braded lines at the same time. The masterend was no problem, but had to use adaptors for the brake ends to get it to the 1/4' fitting. A frendly mechanic helped me with the crimping and installation. I ordered the line by the metre and cut and crimped from here. I was slightly short for the front (measure twice cut once), and as with you, when the works struts were fully extended, there was tension on the lines. Simple cure - Renthal CR250 low bend bars! now I have some spare.

Rear lock up with a single finger on any surface (no B.S.), but the front still need more preassure to lock. I added the HPD throttle at the same time, and I now need a longer lever for the right hand side to clear the new throttle and still enable me to get 4 fingers on the lever. Adding decent pads made a lot of difference as well.

Total cost - $100 for the 2 levers, $160 for all fittings and the line. Couple of beers for the mechanic, and $54 for the Renthals. The line to the rear was one of the most expensive things as it is about 3 metres of line!

BTY, what springs do you run with the Works shocks?

 

Scrambled Kiwi,

I ran the stock (2000 Sport) for a while, but the dang thing felt too top heavy. I was getting about 2" of sack on them, but the front end still felt too high. I had bumped up the preload on the rear works shock about half way to get the machine to sit fairly level. Needless to say it was great for jumps on a MX track, but it left something to be desired on the trail.

I now run the Hot Seat dual rate springs on the front. It's like night and day. The front now sits as low as Celeste's Trailblazer. I run the springs on their softest setting and get about 3-4" of sack. I have about the same amount of sack in the rear, now that I have the preload on the Works shock on it's lowest setting. It easily rides as nice as Celeste's Trailblazer, but I have the dampening to prevent bottoming. The Sport now corners like it's on rails due to it's lower stance.

About the only line I didn't replace with steel braided was the line between the steel brake line and the rear brake. This is for two reasons. One, I couldn't find a Polaris steel braided brake line for it. And Two, because I really don't feel like bleeding the brake again.