CV BOOT REPAIR.......Help......
#1
I own a 99 Explorer 400 4X4. I must have got a tear in the front CV Joint Boot because grease is everywhere. My question is how hard is this to replace, Approximately how much does it cost, and does anyone have any pointers or lessons learned after they replaced one. Thanks, Ron G.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img]
#2
Mine haven't torn yet, but done a few for friends. About the only specialty tool you will need are boot clamp pliers. Before you start, be sure the joint is still tight, as there is no sense putting on a new boot if the joint is shot.
1. Remove the front wheel on the side with the torn boot. Be sure to block it up GOOD, as you will be pulling/prying on stuff.
2. Take the nut off the ball joint at the bottom of the strut and pop it apart (taking off the steering tie-rod end may also be helpful, but not absolutely necessary).
3. Remove both boot clamps. You can also slide the boot off the joint, and farther up the axle, if you want to so you can better see what is going on in there.
4. Pop the joint apart. This is done with brute force. Just pull sharply on the hub (you may have to pry a little bit - I recommend using a piece of wood so as to not scratch anything up) The joint is held together with a spring-loaded clip, and if given a sharp enough tug with enough force, it will just pop apart. What you want to happen is to have the axle shaft come out of the joint. Beware the wire to the 4wd hub, and the brake line, don't stretch either any more than absolutely necessary.
5. clean any gunk off of & out of the CV joint, and re-grease it.
6. slide the new boot (with clamps loosely in place) up on the axle.
7. 'POP' the axle back in the joint. Be SURE the spring clip 'pops' in all the way.
8. smear more CV grease all over the joint, and in the boot, and slide the boot into place where it belongs.
9. Put the clamps where they belong (there should be little recesses for them), and cinch them down with the clamp pliers.
10. Put the ball joint back together, and the tie rod end, if you removed it, put the wheel on, and you are ready to go.
Since I didn't pay for it, I am not sure about the cost, but if I had to guess, I would say in the $20 to mid-$20 range.
1. Remove the front wheel on the side with the torn boot. Be sure to block it up GOOD, as you will be pulling/prying on stuff.
2. Take the nut off the ball joint at the bottom of the strut and pop it apart (taking off the steering tie-rod end may also be helpful, but not absolutely necessary).
3. Remove both boot clamps. You can also slide the boot off the joint, and farther up the axle, if you want to so you can better see what is going on in there.
4. Pop the joint apart. This is done with brute force. Just pull sharply on the hub (you may have to pry a little bit - I recommend using a piece of wood so as to not scratch anything up) The joint is held together with a spring-loaded clip, and if given a sharp enough tug with enough force, it will just pop apart. What you want to happen is to have the axle shaft come out of the joint. Beware the wire to the 4wd hub, and the brake line, don't stretch either any more than absolutely necessary.
5. clean any gunk off of & out of the CV joint, and re-grease it.
6. slide the new boot (with clamps loosely in place) up on the axle.
7. 'POP' the axle back in the joint. Be SURE the spring clip 'pops' in all the way.
8. smear more CV grease all over the joint, and in the boot, and slide the boot into place where it belongs.
9. Put the clamps where they belong (there should be little recesses for them), and cinch them down with the clamp pliers.
10. Put the ball joint back together, and the tie rod end, if you removed it, put the wheel on, and you are ready to go.
Since I didn't pay for it, I am not sure about the cost, but if I had to guess, I would say in the $20 to mid-$20 range.
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