I don't have a part # but they are easy to identify.
If the tie rod end has the stud built into it such as on a car - old style

If the tie rod end looks similar to the inner joint, with a bolt going through the eye, you have the new style.

I think 00 was the transition year, some of the 00 models got the new ones, and the rest in 01

Every time I grease my machine, I pry the boot up just enough to get the plastic straw from my chain lube can under it, and give each tie rod end a little shot of lube. Can't say for sure, but I am willing to bet that is why they are lasting so long. I used to have an Xpress that I had to replace them on shortly after I got it, and the mechanic at my dealership suggested that I try this. It IS a pain, but really seems to help.

 

Yah,
thats the SAME style tie rods im wearing out.Im going to make a mod with some kind of automotiive style tie rods.

Bill

 

Muddy, do you know what size thread & center hole is on the rod ends you are wearing out?
www.msc.com carries industrial ball joint rod end bearings that should replace what you have. They are available in Stainless steel with teflon bearings, for under $16 to fit a 3/8 tie rod thread, right or left hand. Load rating is over 5000#
part #35398403


Their 'ultra' strength 5200 ball bearing steel, teflon bearing unit of the same size is right at $14, and has a load rating of over 9500#
part #35398684

I wish I would have taken the time to go to the shop & measure mine, but I THINK they are 3/8 x 24 thread where they connect into the tie rod. They are also available with a stud out the joint, like a mini automotive style.

I have the big book if my guess on the size is wrong and you want to give these a try, let me know & I'll look them up for you, or check out their website.
The ultra strength we have used with GREAT success for linkages and such here on the farm, but have never tried them in an ATV steering link. Somehow, mine are still the original at 4900 miles.

 

Well, while I was changing front brake pads (first time I did this in over 4900 miles) and found out MY outer tie rod ends are loose.
Now the decision to try MSC for the industrial ones, or get the new style from Polaris.
I think I will try the new style from Polaris. If they outlast the originals, they should be fine for me. I got almost 5000 miles out of the originals. Unless they cost significantly more, then I might go with the industrial ones. I like the idea of the Teflon bearings, and the high load rating. I do think, though, that the my guess of 3/8 tie rod was not right. Mine looks bigger, likely 7/16 or even 3/8.
If I decide to go the way of the industrial joints, I will keep you all posted how well they last, plus be sure to write down the part #s and $$ involved.

 

I dont know what size mine are yet,but soon I will be tearing them apart and heading to see my friend Dave at the Auto Parts store.I will be coming up with something differant.Keep me posted if you get any part numbers.

Bill

 

Muddy, I took the plunge and called for new tie rod ends. The size I needed for my '99 Xplorer can be described this way.
Tie rod thread 1/2" diameter 20 T.P.I (Standard fine thread)
Of course, it has to be Left Hand thread (make tie rod ends harder to find that way - LOL [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] )
The stud going through the strut is 3/8"

Here is what I am planning to do:
I called an industrial supply place, and they have super-strength tie rod ends (the size to fit my Xplorer are rated at over 16,000 #, Yes, over 8 TONS)

They have to call the manufacturer for availablilty for the left hand threaded ones, but the regular ones are right at $20. The sales rep said they are supposed to be the strongest heim style tie rod end available. Also,they have a teflon-lined race for smoothness. I guess they are pretty popular for dune-buggys and such, because they can be run dry, so sand doesn't get held in them by grease. They weren't sure about how well they will hold up in mud, but thought they should. I was thinking that if they looked too out in the open, I might get a boot for the inner rod ends, and see if they will fit (actually, I have 2 used boots on the shelf I might try).
The only difference is these ends have a slightly larger eye diameter than stock, which requires a 44 cent spacer bushing.
When they get back to me on the part #, availability, and definate price, I will reply back.

 

Farmr123,
thank you very much for your assistance,I look forward to the part numbers for the TR mods.

Bill

 

Traildog - I was thinking of the same type of ends for a replacement. I'd be intrested in the procedure you wrote if you would send it. Also, for the SP500, what was the mfg. and p/n of the ends you used?
Your help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
Kevin O.
odonnks@aol.com

 

In case you missed it, I decided to go with industrial heim joints. I found a place that deals with the left-hand thread jobbers to fit the newer Polaris tie rod. The center hole is a little bigger, so it requires a bushing to take up the slack (no big deal to me).
Cost will be under $21 per side, plus whatever sipping will be.
They are supposed to come in first part of next week, and I will post my impressions of them when they come in & the part #s involved. When I am sure they will fit I will post part #s plus any special procedures needed.

 

I make tie rods for Pilots and Odysseys. The stock Odyssey ones have 10mm (3/8) ends. I use 7/16" heim joints and 5/8" chrome moly for the rods. I don't run boots on them because the dirt seems to get into the boots no matter what and gets held there. I uses Comet clutch lube on them. It sprays on and then drys. It does not wash off and holds up pretty good.