Muddy4Life, I got the tie rod ends in the mail today, but harvest is starting, so it will be tomorrow at the soonest before I will be able to see how they fit. They appear pretty beefy for their size.
More later
Farmr

 

Got the new tie rod ends in. I must say when I took the old ones off, and compared them to the new, I was surprised at the difference. The new ones are DEFINATELY beefier. Also, they move very smoothly (I would hope so!) and were tight and very solid-feeling. I still wonder if I shouldn't have just gotten the Polaris ones, but I figured I had nothing to lose. These should last just as long as the factory ones, or longer, as they are definately more heavy-duty.
Cost was just under $20 per end, an additional $0.55 per side for a spacer bushing (and shipping), plus a bolt. Those of you with the Polaris heim-style joint SHOULD be able to use your old bolt unless the new joint is enough thicker that you need a longer one.
Part numbers are thus:
My 99 Xplorer uses the 1/2" tie rods (older machines used a 3/8" rod - the 1/2 inch size uses a 3/4" wrench to loosen the locknuts against the tie rods). If yours is the same here are the part #s to use:

I got all this through MSC Industrial supply (if you call there, be sure to ask for the big book). Their # is 800-645-7270. The rep I talked to was a lady named Jerri Lynn, and was very helpful. The left hand threaded stuff was not a stock item, but was sent direct form the factory. It took 4 working days for the last item to arrive. Anyway, here goes:


OUTER tie rod end - L.H. threads - 98760002 ($19.66)
INNER tie rod end - R.H. threads - 35398700 ($19.66)


These have a slightly bigger center hole than the stockers, and will need a bushing to make everything 'tight'. I used a shoulder bushing on the outer end to help shim away the joint for more clearance so the joint won't bind as the suspension moves.

Bushing for OUTER end - 06454524 ($0.55)
Bushing for INNER end - 06453443 ($0.57)

The inner joint can't use a shoulder bushing as there won't be room for it because the joint has to ride inside of the 2 ears at the bottom of the steering stem. I checked and these joints should fit where the inner joints are. You MAY need a thin washer, and may not. I just held it up there & didn't feel like taking apart what wasn't worn out yet, so don't know exactly how tight it would be.
I used these bushings because they are metal, and slightly oversized, meaning they fit into the joint TIGHT, with zero slop. You may even have to hammer them into the joint to get them to fit.
Any washers and bolts you may feel you need should be available through any hardware store, as they are pretty standard 3/8" hardware. Just be sure to get at least grade 5 stuff.
Good luck.

Farmr

The guy who now has ZERO play in his steering.

 

I had been asked on the technique I used for changing the tie rod ends with the industrial ones. I thought it would be easier to add to this post than start a new one, as I already listed the part #s here.
Replacing them was no big deal.
1. pop out the old outer tie rod end. I did both of mine at once, but in retrospect, I would do one at a time next time. This is simple, just remove the cotter pin, loosen the nut, and tap on the end of the stud until it pops out of the strut.
2. Unscrew the old end off the tie rod. Self explanatory, but remember the rod end and locknut are both LEFT hand threaded on the outer joint.
3. prepare the new joint. Since I used the joint with the highest load rating I could find (just over 8 TONS) the hole through the eye was bigger than the bolt. I used a shoulder bushing (part # listed in a previous post) to make up the difference. The bushing I used fit the eye TIGHT (had to tap in with a hammer) which at least insures it won't wobble out.
4. screw the new joint on the tie rod. Again, this is a heavier-duty joint than standard. Counting turns as you unscrewed the old one will do you no good as it threads on the rod much deeper. Hopefully, you only did one side, so you can kind of eyeball it pretty close. Put a bolt loosely through the rod end & strut, and get your toe-out at least close. It will save headaches later (more on that later).
5. When you get it close, now is the time to put it in good. I put the shoulder of the shoulder bushing between the joint and strut, with one of the washers used with the stock tie rod end in between. This gave me enough clearance (the thickness of the washer and shoulder of the bushing) that no farther shimming seemed necessary. I used the other stock washer between the strut ear and bolt, to protect the aluminum. I used a hardened (grade 5) 3/8 inch diameter bolt to go through the eye on the joint and strut, with a regular steel washer between the bolt and the heim joint. It won't interfere with the joint movement, and may help keep so much slop from getting in the joint. I think this washer is optional, but I used one. I don't know the bolt length for sure, because I didn't buy any, I just dug a couple out of the bin I have in the shop. Just measure how long it needs to be with calipers or something, I guess. Also, I used a self-locking nut, and penetrating loctite when I was done, rather than the castle nut & cotter pin like the factory.
6. Snug the bolt up good enough to eliminate any play, and set your toe out. You may have to remove the joint from the strut & thread it in a little more or less (if you run out of adjustment) but there WILL be plenty of adjustment between the inner & outer joints to get this done. When it is right, tighten up the joint to the strut good & tight, and loctite it if you aren't going to have a cotter pin there (for safety reasons) Double check your toe out, and do the other side.

I guess that pretty well sums it up, but do one side at a time, and re-set your toe out between them. I thought I could save time doing both sides at once. WHile the joints went in quicker, I am sure, when I was done and set the toe out, the handlebars didn't point straight ahead when the wheels did. I had to screw one tie rod out and the other in a turn or two to get it right. Doing one at a time would solve that problem.

 

Excellent post Farmer!!!!!!! Looks like you did your research on this one. I just recieved the outter tie rod ends and bushings from MSC. Looks like a no brainer to me. I also just got the bronze lower stem bushing from Ritter, so now I have a little project to do this weekend. Along with the stock Polaris lower A arms bushings for my sons Trail Boss, and the air box mod. The only question I have is what to set the toe in to?

 

You want to set the toe OUT at about 1/4 to 1/2 inch (wider at the front than the back).
The more toe out you have (within reason, of course), the more 'stable' your machine will be, especially at speed. Too much toe out will make for a 'floaty' feel to the steering, it will go pretty much where you steer it, but not very precicely.
Not enough toe out (or too much toe in) will make the front end feel 'twitchy' at speed. It will seem to steer very quickly, and precicely at low speeds, but at higher speeds, will feel like it grabs every rut, even ones too small to see.
Good luck.
Farmr

PS I would like your opinions on the new tie rod end joints. To me they are SIGNIFICANTLY beefier than the standard Polaris ones. More to satisfy my curiousity than anything. Thanks