I agree with you that, ultimately, it is your responsibility when you modify a machine. I enjoy watching Shade Tree Mechanic and Trucks, both on TNN, and have seen them both install after market lift kits on trucks and jeeps. In all cases, they buy a complete kit, which includes replacement parts to maintain proper suspension geometry and driveline alignment.

If Highlifter is selling parts to lift your ATV, they should, as you pointed out, take care to not unduly stress any of the components. They may need to include (or offer) new spindles with CV joints and shafts, if they are needed. I realize that more parts will make the lift kits more expensive, but they should at least offer the parts that will keep your machine working properly.

Highlifter has a VERY good reputation, so I can't believe they would knowingly develop a system that would hurt your ATV. You can think of your notification of the problem as continuing R&D for them. Heck, they might even give you some free parts.

I'm not trying to lay blame here, I just think that if you have found a problem you should let them know so they can improve their product. They may even bring you on as a field tester: can you say free parts?!?! You never know, it might happen.

With that said, what does it take to lift an ATV? What came in your kit?

 

So do you think the actual breakage occurred when you were in forward or reverse? Or by the time you noticed it was broken, was it too late to tell?

This has me thinking about some way to limit the range of steering travel on my machine. Installing some kind of steering “bumper” or “stop” probably wouldn’t be that tough. Trouble is, how do you pick the spot you don’t want it to turn beyond? You know, that magical spot between “OK” and “crunch”.

A good steering dampener would likely reduce the sudden torque that could cause the steering to move to an extreme angle, or at least delay it enough to offer some added control. And a “stop” on each end of the rod that travels through the damper would limit steering travel. Hmmmmm

 

Kevin, you do have a point, although I won’t be holding my breath for any free parts. Maybe just a hat that says “Official High Lifter Field Tester.” (hehehe) Wouldn’t they love to see me walking away from a broken quad wearing that!

The parts to lift the front of most Polarises are all the same, and they couldn’t be more simple. Even though High Lifter insists on referring to them as “brackets” in their installation instructions, they are actually spacers cut from “special” pipe. You remove the strut cartridge and drop one spacer into the strut casing (that’s what Polaris calls the part the strut cartridge mounts in). This “blocks up” and raises the height of the strut cartridge once it’s reinstalled. The other spacer is the same height and it sits underneath the coil spring surrounding the strut, between the rest that the spring was designed to sit on and the bottom of the spring. This combination of spacers raises the machine without changing spring compression or spring or strut travel. But like we said, I puts a more drastic angle on the front axles.

 

I know for a fact that the first time it happened I was in full turn to left, and backing over a log. As soon as the left tire started over the log and got a grip, that cv joint started popping.
The next time it happened 2 days later. I was in full turn left going forward out of a water hole. After about 2 clicks it popped and that wheel quit turning. I placed it in reverse, started backing up, turned fully to the right, gave it the gas and shredded the right joint (not as bad as the left, but it still broke).

 

Okay, all this talk about broken CV joints and stuff has got me thinking, if I would break mine, or at least one of them, what would I use to replace it with, that would be stronger and more releiable than the stock Polaris joints? This would be a great thing to put on while lifting the quad up to ease the mind of the owner after installing one of Highlifter's kits. I've just put in their kit, front and rear, and haven't even considered anything breaking, but then again, I haven't put on the new 27" bi and triclaws that would increase the stress. This is all great food for thought. It'll probably affect the way I drive my quad now. I may have to start putt-putting around instead of treating my SP like an off-road racer!

 

Outstanding discussion on the topic so far, guys!

Early on in ATVing I asked a factory tech-rep about the consequences of installing larger tires on my quad.

He said, "The increased traction of the more aggressive tires, coupled with the increased leverage exerted by the ground with their larger-diameter, will stress your drivetrain (joints, bearings, shafts, seals, clutches, etc.) more than the stock type and size tires."

Makes sense; further, the increased driveshaft joint angles of lift kits must convey some added stress, also.

How much? Acceptable? Or too much? Everyone must decide for himself.

Floodrunner, I doubt you have a problem with joint wear while you fly through the air (with the greatest of ease, no doubt!) regardless of the joint angle, because: the drivetrain is under no torque load at that time. Rather, damage seems likely when under power with rolling resistance; mud or hill, exacerbated by extreme turn angles.

Sadly, there ain't no such thing as a free lunch. Would I avoid tire size/type and drivetrain modifications? No, but I'd be mindful of the possible consequences.

Tree Farmer

 

I’m curious, what did it cost to have the dealer replace one of your CV joints, if that’s the way you had it repaired?

 

Has anyone thought about that the shaft is being pulled to the outsde edge of the CV. When the suspension move up and down the shaft needs to extend and contract. With the lift installed, maybe the joint is being pulled past the operating range of the joint. Had that problem on a jeep CJ-5 rear driveshaft, only it was the splined slider on the shaft instead of a CV.

 

So far its about $400.00 first estimate. I wont know for sure just what all they tore up on the inside of the hubs until later this week. ( both front cv joints )

 

The way it looks to me the splined OD on the CV end of the shaft and the correspondingly splined ID inside the CV joint form the “slip joint” that compensates for vertical movement of the hub while still delivering power. The mental picture I’m developing from this discussion is of a CV joint that functions well up to a certain point of angle. Beyond that point it becomes severely weakened and breaks easily under load. Anything we do in the way of increasing the load or the angle only makes it more likely to break. Just how, or what part of it breaks I’m not sure. I understand what it is; pretty much just a cage with big ball bearings in it and paths in the cage for the bearings to move around allowing the angular transfer of rotation. Is it the “cage” that breaks? I guess it’s really a moot point, we’re more concerned with keeping it from breaking than how it breaks. It sounds like the best defense is to avoid extreme steering angles in AWD, either manually or by some additional mechanical method. If it’s really a $400 repair I’ll be very happy to avoid the experience.