What's the wire for?
#1
'94 sportsman 400 20th anniv.
what's the little black wire that goes into the bottom of the Mcpheerson strut?
left wheel still won't work...
suplies running low, one flare left... C'mon guys?!? i need help here.
also: why is mine a diferent shade of green than the others?
sort of an O.D. green w/black?
what's the little black wire that goes into the bottom of the Mcpheerson strut?
left wheel still won't work...
suplies running low, one flare left... C'mon guys?!? i need help here.
also: why is mine a diferent shade of green than the others?
sort of an O.D. green w/black?
#3
#5
If your talking about the wire that is siliconed into the strut just above the hub, it's the control wire for the 4wd. Polaris uses a hilliard bearing that is activated by an electromagnet. It doesn't really use a sensor but is activated by centrifical force. When you energize the electromagnet it pulls roller bearings outward from the hub engaging the 4wd. Boy, now I feel like a brainiac. Sometimes I even amaze myself.
#6
MaineRider,
You're close. Actually, when you switch the machine to 4 wheel drive, a magnet in the lower strut housing is activated, and attracts an armature plate. The armature place now has a certain amount of resistance to turn. Sticking outward from the armature plate are 3 engagement dogs that go into the roller cage. Since the armature plate has resistance to turning, so does the roller cage. This resistance to turn, when combined with the wheel not moving, causes a cam that resides inside the roller cage to push the rollers up and out to engage the inside of the hub. That wheel is now engaged to the drive shaft, at least until traction is regained at the rear wheels. Hope this helps.
Waylan
You're close. Actually, when you switch the machine to 4 wheel drive, a magnet in the lower strut housing is activated, and attracts an armature plate. The armature place now has a certain amount of resistance to turn. Sticking outward from the armature plate are 3 engagement dogs that go into the roller cage. Since the armature plate has resistance to turning, so does the roller cage. This resistance to turn, when combined with the wheel not moving, causes a cam that resides inside the roller cage to push the rollers up and out to engage the inside of the hub. That wheel is now engaged to the drive shaft, at least until traction is regained at the rear wheels. Hope this helps.
Waylan
#7
I posted this on your other message, too. The other guys mentioned the same stuff. Here's my recipe of the same.
Mechanically speaking, your front driveshaft and front axles will always rotate (in 2WD or 4WD). If you busted your CV joint, you will most likely hear popping noises as the front axle turns (in 2WD or 4WD).
The front drivetrain is pretty simple. The axle always turns. The axle goes through the strut assembly and into the middle of the wheel hub. The wheel hub rotates freely in 2WD. The wheel hub is engaged in 4WD electrically (when you push the AWD switch) by means of a magnetic coil in the strut assembly and a rotating armature plate inside the hub. The armature plate enagages a clutch assembly that has a cam that is toothed to the axle spindle. The armature plate and clutch assembly rotate with the axle in 2WD. When the magnetic coil is energized, the armature plate is attracted to the magnetic coil in the strut and it stops spinning. The armature plate stops spinning long enough to cause the outside roll cage of the clutch assembly to stop rotating while the inside cam of the clutch assembly continues to turn with the axle spindle. The high sides of the cam roll up and push out the 6 rolls inside the roll cage. These rolls "swell" out and contact the hub (Remember the hub rotates freely in 2WD but not in 4WD). The clutch assembly "swells" and causes the clutch assembly to lock the hub and axle spindle together.
What to look for:
I. Electrically,
1. Are you getting power to the magnetic coil? Check for broken wires, bad connection, etc.
2. Disconnect the magnetic coil wire from the wire block and "Ohm" it with a multimeter. It should read around 27 Ohms.
II. Mechanically,
1. Drain the hub fluid and replace. Low hub fluid or dirty hub fluid can cause the armature plate or clutch assembly not to engage.
2. Inspect the armature plate for bends and wear. They must be flat to work properly. And they are cheap to replace.
3. Inspect the clutch assembly. The cam and rolls/roll cage should move freely without any binding. If you had a fluid leak, the rolls could have been marred from lack of lubrication. Check the garter spring. The spring keeps enough tension on the rolls to stop them from engaging when not in 4WD. Too much tension and the rolls won't reach the surface of the hub. Replace if in doubt.
4. If you have recently had work done on the hubs or struts, check the pole gap between the magnetic coil and the armature plate. The adjustment is made by moving the magnetic coil closer to the armature plateby tapping the seal outward/inward. The gap should be approximately 0.001 inches.
I may have missed something but this should get you started.
SurferSam
Mechanically speaking, your front driveshaft and front axles will always rotate (in 2WD or 4WD). If you busted your CV joint, you will most likely hear popping noises as the front axle turns (in 2WD or 4WD).
The front drivetrain is pretty simple. The axle always turns. The axle goes through the strut assembly and into the middle of the wheel hub. The wheel hub rotates freely in 2WD. The wheel hub is engaged in 4WD electrically (when you push the AWD switch) by means of a magnetic coil in the strut assembly and a rotating armature plate inside the hub. The armature plate enagages a clutch assembly that has a cam that is toothed to the axle spindle. The armature plate and clutch assembly rotate with the axle in 2WD. When the magnetic coil is energized, the armature plate is attracted to the magnetic coil in the strut and it stops spinning. The armature plate stops spinning long enough to cause the outside roll cage of the clutch assembly to stop rotating while the inside cam of the clutch assembly continues to turn with the axle spindle. The high sides of the cam roll up and push out the 6 rolls inside the roll cage. These rolls "swell" out and contact the hub (Remember the hub rotates freely in 2WD but not in 4WD). The clutch assembly "swells" and causes the clutch assembly to lock the hub and axle spindle together.
What to look for:
I. Electrically,
1. Are you getting power to the magnetic coil? Check for broken wires, bad connection, etc.
2. Disconnect the magnetic coil wire from the wire block and "Ohm" it with a multimeter. It should read around 27 Ohms.
II. Mechanically,
1. Drain the hub fluid and replace. Low hub fluid or dirty hub fluid can cause the armature plate or clutch assembly not to engage.
2. Inspect the armature plate for bends and wear. They must be flat to work properly. And they are cheap to replace.
3. Inspect the clutch assembly. The cam and rolls/roll cage should move freely without any binding. If you had a fluid leak, the rolls could have been marred from lack of lubrication. Check the garter spring. The spring keeps enough tension on the rolls to stop them from engaging when not in 4WD. Too much tension and the rolls won't reach the surface of the hub. Replace if in doubt.
4. If you have recently had work done on the hubs or struts, check the pole gap between the magnetic coil and the armature plate. The adjustment is made by moving the magnetic coil closer to the armature plateby tapping the seal outward/inward. The gap should be approximately 0.001 inches.
I may have missed something but this should get you started.
SurferSam
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