I am very close to ordering the RCR kit (top-end pipe) for my 99 400 scrambler. I am wondering if I should add reeds to the mix, and if so, which ones? Moto Tassinari's V-Force delta 2s look like a cool product, but what about Boysen Rad valves, or carbon fiber reeds? Do I need a new reed cage as well?

Down the line, I want a roller clutch as well, but that may be awhile...

Anybody got any advice?

While I'm at it, anybody out there installed the top end pipe? If so how do you like it?

Thanks!

 

Hawkman,

I really don't think you'd be happy with a top end pipe. The problem with them is a distinct lack of front wheel traction. If you do all the engine mods like I've done and put on a top end pipe you'll be wheeling too much to turn. As mine is set up now, it's going to take me some time to learn to ride it again. I haven't even got it to full throttle yet either. Unless, of course, you plan to ride in the sand as A400L does.

If you want any kind of performance and will be putting on a larger carb in the future, you'll have to replace the reeds AND cage. I have the original Delta V-Force reeds & cage and couldn't be happier with them.

Do your self a favor, get the roller clutch as soon as possible. It makes a tremendous difference. I'm sold on mine.

If you have the time, check out the link to my page under my name, I think you'll be surprised as to what you can do to one of these machines!

 

Thanks, Mike.

A couple of questions though. I won't (for now) be switching pistons, or changing the head, or porting, etc. I am going to start with the bolt-on stuff. Will the top-end pipe still be too much? I would think that the top-end pipe would not be a problem with keeping the wheels down, in fact, wouldn't the mid-range (and to a greater extent, the low-end pipe) provide more torque off the line and therefore more air time for the front wheels?

I like the website, it looks like you left the heatshield off when you went to to the RCR pipe. Any problems with toasty thighs?

Thanks again!

 

Hawkman,

For just riding trails, I think so. Rick Ritter is usually the first to mention that. Believe me, when I say that you'll be happy with the mid-range pipe. I am. Even with all the mods on mine, it produces true open class (scary) power. The top end pipes are great for duning, stuff where you can't get enough traction and places where you're going to be riding wide open.

However, if all you're going to add is a pipe for now, you'd best stick with the mid-range pipe. Once you start reving a stock motor (with the cheesy cast piston) past 7000 RPMs, things start to happen. All of them bad! The stock cast piston can't take the excess RPMs / horsepower and could do it's best impersonation of a hand grenade. I've heard that some top end pipes will rev to 7500 RPM! That is about 1800 RPM faster than stock. You see, on two strokes, pipes act as the rev limiter.

Also you're right about the mid-range pipe, but only if you have no other mods to your machine. The top end pipe will actually take away from the bottom end in torque and horsepower. Then you need to add reeds and cages, carbs and porting, head work, etc., just to get the bottom or what's left of it back.

If you are eventually going to go all out (like Jack and A400L have done) you could always buy a top end pipe later. But for now, a mid range pipe is your best bet.

No toasted or broiled thighs here. I just wanted to show off the HPC (High Performance Creamic) coated prototype pipe that Rick made. It did seem a shame to keep it under all that plastic. It kind of looks like a dull chrome finish, but after running the pipe for an hour or so, you can actually touch it without gloved hands. I just didn't want to "mess up" the finish on the pipe (reason for the guard).

 

Hawk;

Mike is right about the pipes. With Ritter's mid-range you'll be revving about 6500RPM's, which is plenty for serious trail riding. Going straight to the Hi-rev would not be much use to you at this point. I started with the mid, but going to race fuel and Rick's porting dictated the use of the Hi-rev. I ride mostly in sand and loamy dirt so I cant say I've has much trouble with unwanted wheelying. Proper clutching can help eliveate that, and improper clutching will cause it to happen.

I still have yet got the heuvos up to nail it on the pavement!

As far as the reeds go its best just to replace the entire valve. Either the V-Force or Boyesen will work great, I have the V-Force.

A bigger carb will also help you get the most out of the pipe as well. Send Rick yuor 34 to be bore out to 35.5mm for $60, or go all out with a 38TMX.

Keep your eye on that piston too. If you can swing a new would it would'nt hurt.

 

Thanks for all the great info, guys.

I ordered the kit this morning with the mid-range pipe.

Now comes the hard part - waiting a week till it gets here.....

I will keep you updated.

Hawkman 99 400 Scrambler - K&N, soon to be RcR'ed