Sportsman 500 zerks
#1
#2
The service manuel that comes with the Sportsman is very poor at illustrating all the zerts.Im going to tell you thru experience you should jack up the quad and remove all 4 wheels for easier access to the zerts.They are EVERYWHERE.The stock Goodyears will have the recommended tire pressure on the side wall of the tire.Best of luck====BILL
#5
#7
On my 98 SP500 I counted 32 zerks, 8 drive train and 24 chassis. Like Bill said, put it up on stands, remove the wheels and start greasing. When I grease mine I pump enough grease through each zerk to displace all the old grease, typically 8 to 10 pumps of the gun. I have 1000 miles on my machine and all is well.
The recommended tire pressure for my machine is 5 PSI all around, as per the Polaris sticker on the rear fender.
Good luck.
The recommended tire pressure for my machine is 5 PSI all around, as per the Polaris sticker on the rear fender.
Good luck.
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#8
As referenced in the 9/9/99 article "You worth the premium ride?" in the Quad Reviews section -
front A-arms 4 (2 on each side)
rear A-arms 12 (6 on each side)
mid shaft u-joint 1
front shaft u-joint 1
front drive u-joint 2 (1 on each side)
steering stem 2
rear stabilizer 2 (1 on each side)
23 that can be reached without tearing into the bike. The upper steering stem requires some parts removal. Thats not to say there aren't more. By all means, get it up on some ramps. It'll save your knees and assist getting those zirks that are best reached through the skid plate.
front A-arms 4 (2 on each side)
rear A-arms 12 (6 on each side)
mid shaft u-joint 1
front shaft u-joint 1
front drive u-joint 2 (1 on each side)
steering stem 2
rear stabilizer 2 (1 on each side)
23 that can be reached without tearing into the bike. The upper steering stem requires some parts removal. Thats not to say there aren't more. By all means, get it up on some ramps. It'll save your knees and assist getting those zirks that are best reached through the skid plate.
#9
Yeah, that's where my 99 SP500 is currently--up on supports so I can grease it...!
It's not that bad--I agree, the tricky part is greasing the U-Joint since the zerk has to line up with the hole on the frame..the wheels don't turn since I have 2 wheels on the ground at all times..
A question: apart from the U-Joint grease that came with the bike--what kind should I buy to grease the U-Joints? Is there a spec?
I'd like to add a tip...on the front near the bottom--near the towing point...there are 2 bolts. Make sure these are tight..mine were loose I guess from hitting trees and things. Also, there are 2 bolts under the "hood" you have to take off..these bolts attach the plastic to the frame. Well, one of mine was missing! I have to go buy a new one hopefully at Home Depot...
Also, it helps to take off the boot guards to get at the zerks as well as the wheels as Bill said.
Hope that helps some of you.
It's not that bad--I agree, the tricky part is greasing the U-Joint since the zerk has to line up with the hole on the frame..the wheels don't turn since I have 2 wheels on the ground at all times..
A question: apart from the U-Joint grease that came with the bike--what kind should I buy to grease the U-Joints? Is there a spec?
I'd like to add a tip...on the front near the bottom--near the towing point...there are 2 bolts. Make sure these are tight..mine were loose I guess from hitting trees and things. Also, there are 2 bolts under the "hood" you have to take off..these bolts attach the plastic to the frame. Well, one of mine was missing! I have to go buy a new one hopefully at Home Depot...
Also, it helps to take off the boot guards to get at the zerks as well as the wheels as Bill said.
Hope that helps some of you.
#10