Boy, you guys want me to have to write a book. I will tell you I havent been running alky that long on my wheeler, but have dealt with it before.There is not specific jetting specs for an alky carb. It is pretty unforgiving on a 2-cycle if it gets too lean, though. Alcohol unlike gasoline can be compressed as a liquid. It has a cooling effect and just makes more power. The problem is that it takes about 2 times as much to do the job. Jay's FTZ carb (pudjumper) has one adjustable power jet that sticks in the 12 o'clock position in the back of the carb. My Lectron has 2 power jets. One at 12:00 which is adjustable, and one at 11:00 which is fixed. Look up a search engine on Lectron carbs. They are neat and are supposed to make more power. The purpose of a power jet is to supply the additional fuel needed after the slide raises above say 50%. We are both running FTZ's fuel pump. A pulse pump uses a pulse from the engine to flutter a diaphragm that pulls and pushes fuel. They are very simple and you can find them on snowmobiles,lawn mowers, and even chainsaws and weedeaters use that principal. Jay and myself are tapped into the reed cage area with a nipple fitting that has a hose attatched and then goes to the pump. My sport is a 99 model, so it was easier to hook up. I took both lines (1/4 lines) and went into a block with 2 of the 1/4 lines in and one 5/16 line out. From there I went to a fuel shutoff valve, then to a brass "T" , then to a fuel filter, then to the pump. Off the brass "T", I took a line to under the seat to use as a purge line. When I am through riding for the day, I take the seat off, hook up a one gallon can that has race gas premix, then shut off the fuel valve and run for about a minute until it dont want to run anymore. That gets the alky out of the filter,pump,carb,and motor. Alcohol is hydroscopic like brake fluid and will absorb water fast. That will rust bearings quickly, so purging is a need to do thing. You can buy alky pretty cheap, but you have to run an oil that mixes with it. The most popular is Klotz Benol. And it runs about $35-$40 a gallon. But if you mix all of it with alky and compare it to race gas mixed, the cost is about the same. The timing can be advanced about 2 degrees also for more power. As Jay said, you can get 300-400 feet off of gravity feeding, but it's not really recommended. I hope all this made some sense. Most people are scared of alky because they dont really know about it, but it is no different than running anything else. You just have to spend a little time initially to get it all set up. The end result is well worth it I promise. Look in all the motorcycle ads, and everywhere you can. I bought my lectron used for $100 and the pump used for $45. I only had to spend about $20 for supplies at the hardware store and one evening at the house to get it plummed. Not hard at all. Bubba

 

Bubba, do think a hpd roller secondary will help with 300ft times?

 

OK you guys that have lowered your bikes--how did you do it??? What parts did ya use???

What about taking weight off???


The need for speed!!! Man does it ever end???

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Put aftermarket shocks on and extended the swingarm and changed location of shock mounting point. I also changed the mounting point of front shocks by raising the upper shock mount. Weight wise, took off electric starter, removed all, I mean all wiring not needed. I don't have lights or any electrical gauges or gadgets. I also had the fly shaved, put on nerf bars instead of floorboards, cut the fenders. Mine weighs in about 390. I've got a couple of pics posted you can look at if you already haven't. I also took out reverse gear, I have forward only. I went full out, kinda crazy I know.

 

Chris, I just now figured out that this was you on the forum. I am a little slow sometimes. What did you end up doing on your gearing and weights? let me know,Bubba

 

Bubba I have a +4" swingarm coming from Dennis Shotwell, and am gonna try the 14/34 gearing when I change it out. How big of a difference do you think this will make in the bike coming from the 13/38 that is on the bike now???

I am still not going like I want to with the bike, and think that lowering and lightening the bike up will get it there. I just dont know where to start. I have taken off the 4x4, and oil injection
Have you guys removed the skidplates under the frame on your bikes???
I plan on taking off my floorboards soon and cutting my plastic to start things off. How much weight will this save???
Is there any aftermarket springs that will lower the bike without much hassle???

Thanks for all the help!!!!

 

I can see why your doing big wheelies with that gearing! There's practically no load on it with that.It will rock with the new gearing. If you want to lower the bike about an inch the easy way, order the firm rate springs from Polaris. The fronts are a dual rate, so you dont lose any ride or compression. The front #'s are 7041375-067. The rear is #7041303-067. You can look at my pics and see for yourself. I like it and it is definitely lower than my wife's scrambler. I pulled everything off myself that wasnt needed.If you pull the battery install the battery eliminator capacitor. I used Banshee nerf bars, Polarisfreak used 250r bars. they take little time to install. I had to do a little welding to make mine fit the way I wanted them to. Rule of thumb is once you decide your gonna do it, dont look back and start gutting it. If you dont need it remove it.In the end it will add up and it will rock. E-mail me if you need advise,Bubba

 

LOL. Truer words have never been spoken. Slim Fast doesn't taste to bad either. A year ago I'd never imagine ripping all the creature comforts off my Sport, just to see lower ET's.

Wouldn't it be sweet to engage and maintain 7500 rpm. You could launch at max hp without the delay. Any ideas on how to do this?

 

You cant go quite that far, but you can grind a notch or flat spot on the engagement part of the weights and get the stall way up there. I dont see why you couldnt get about 6000 out of it. The grass and ice drag racers on snowmobiles use this trick. It does take all the driveability out of it. Might need a second clutch to set up for that. Jay, have you not bought Aaen's clutch handbook yet? I dont see how any serious racer could do without it. Only costs about $30 shipped to you. That is the holy bible from the god of the PVT transmission LOL.Bubba

 

Bubba my dealer tried to get me some prices on the 13/34 sprockets and all he could find were in steel.

Do you have any part#'s for the aluminum sprockets??

I would like to go with aluminum if I can to shave every ounce off that I can.


Thanks for the pics---I will put them to good use!!!

Got any jetting specs on your setup??


Thanks!!!