oil for predator break in
Jan 10, 2003 | 11:11 AM
#11
Thread Starter
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Range Rover
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 148
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oil for predator break in
Tres: I'm not here to change anybody's opinions, but I at least want people to educate themselves and know what's best for their engines, keeping longevity and performance in mind. I just hate to see people take something as fact before further looking into it. Case in point, doing what Polaris says to do, otherwise beware bla bla bla. Do you honestly think Polaris or some other big shot Co. knows more than an oil/engine performance industry does?? I doubt it. Why start off on a bad leg with your predator and let your 6k+ investment lose out on potential that could have never been lost, having only used a different type of oil for the first crucial hours of break-in?
Honestly, I don’t know exactly what method I’m going to take, in terms of break-in process (seems to be some different ways to do it after reading more this last week). But I do know I’m going to use a 20-50W blend, conventional type. I might use that one guy’s suggestion on one of the links of using the QuakerState. I have not heard anything bad about that oil in my reading. I have not heard the best about Valvoline however. Sorry, didn’t mean to kill you on that one. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
I plan on draining the factory oil immediately before I start it, likely taking out the filter too so I get a cleanest possible slate to work off. Then stick my oil in, and do the initial break-in process (have not decided yet), and then drain it within 45 minutes or the first few break-in attempts. Then, re-fill it, use it for another 2 hours or so, then drain it again, refill it, then use the rule of every 8-12 hours for oil changes, with filter of course too. Synthetic won't be used until 12-15 hours for me.
Tres, here’s my take on your dilemma with the white bros slip on. I ordered it too, and will have that Sat, but I’m not mounting it up until the break in is done. This way you keep the stock jetting in tack and you make no mistake in breaking her in. Takes out the mystery of guess work for breaking it in. After the 5-10 hours of breaking it in correctly, stick your WB’s on man and let her rip! If you need to make jetting accommodations, so be it. But at least know you know you did the break in right and you can go from there. Sound good? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Professor: 26, going on 50. haha, j/k. My dad started using Amsoil about 5-6 years ago. He told me a lot about oils and gave me some materials to read. From there, I became interested in oils and what works best for certain applications. I use it in everything, except my high mileage truck. I bought the truck with 130k miles, it’s recommended you don’t start using synthetic if you’re over like 80k+ miles if it’s the first time using synthetics. I don’t claim to know more than most, but I take oils in my engines seriously because I hate fixing things that can be avoided and I like the most bang for my buck in terms of performance and reliability!
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Honestly, I don’t know exactly what method I’m going to take, in terms of break-in process (seems to be some different ways to do it after reading more this last week). But I do know I’m going to use a 20-50W blend, conventional type. I might use that one guy’s suggestion on one of the links of using the QuakerState. I have not heard anything bad about that oil in my reading. I have not heard the best about Valvoline however. Sorry, didn’t mean to kill you on that one. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
I plan on draining the factory oil immediately before I start it, likely taking out the filter too so I get a cleanest possible slate to work off. Then stick my oil in, and do the initial break-in process (have not decided yet), and then drain it within 45 minutes or the first few break-in attempts. Then, re-fill it, use it for another 2 hours or so, then drain it again, refill it, then use the rule of every 8-12 hours for oil changes, with filter of course too. Synthetic won't be used until 12-15 hours for me.
Tres, here’s my take on your dilemma with the white bros slip on. I ordered it too, and will have that Sat, but I’m not mounting it up until the break in is done. This way you keep the stock jetting in tack and you make no mistake in breaking her in. Takes out the mystery of guess work for breaking it in. After the 5-10 hours of breaking it in correctly, stick your WB’s on man and let her rip! If you need to make jetting accommodations, so be it. But at least know you know you did the break in right and you can go from there. Sound good? [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Professor: 26, going on 50. haha, j/k. My dad started using Amsoil about 5-6 years ago. He told me a lot about oils and gave me some materials to read. From there, I became interested in oils and what works best for certain applications. I use it in everything, except my high mileage truck. I bought the truck with 130k miles, it’s recommended you don’t start using synthetic if you’re over like 80k+ miles if it’s the first time using synthetics. I don’t claim to know more than most, but I take oils in my engines seriously because I hate fixing things that can be avoided and I like the most bang for my buck in terms of performance and reliability!
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Jan 10, 2003 | 11:36 AM
#12
Pro Rider
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 446
Likes: 0
oil for predator break in
Okay guys, everyone play nice............this is a good thread and before it turns into a slap fest, here's something else to consider.
I believe I read somewhere about 5-6 months ago that the Predator runs a NiCaSil cylinder coating. Can anyone confirm or deny this?
A quick search on the web touts the benifits:
Nicasil is an expensive technology used for coating the cylinders of only the best quality engines on the market. It is far superior to sleeved and hard-chromed cylinder walls. It is a coating made up of nickel and silicon carbide. The Nicasil coating is very hard and durable thus providing a very long wearing surface for the piston and rings. Also the silicon carbide particles that are dispersed throughout the nickel form a multitude of adhesion spots on which oil can collect. This is another reason that engines with Nicasil coated cylinders last longer because of having improved cylinder lubrication. Also because the Nicasil coating literally impregnates the cylinder walls with silicon the result is a super low coefficient of friction, thus reducing engine heat and wear. Engines with Nicasil coated cylinders run cooler and with less vibration. Lower friction also means easier and quicker engine starts. Also an additional benefit is that the piston and cylinder expand at the same rate, thus, creating a very seizure-resistant engine.Spam word
Something else to chew on guys...........
Heapster
03 TL Preddytor
404cc Banshee.
I believe I read somewhere about 5-6 months ago that the Predator runs a NiCaSil cylinder coating. Can anyone confirm or deny this?
A quick search on the web touts the benifits:
Nicasil is an expensive technology used for coating the cylinders of only the best quality engines on the market. It is far superior to sleeved and hard-chromed cylinder walls. It is a coating made up of nickel and silicon carbide. The Nicasil coating is very hard and durable thus providing a very long wearing surface for the piston and rings. Also the silicon carbide particles that are dispersed throughout the nickel form a multitude of adhesion spots on which oil can collect. This is another reason that engines with Nicasil coated cylinders last longer because of having improved cylinder lubrication. Also because the Nicasil coating literally impregnates the cylinder walls with silicon the result is a super low coefficient of friction, thus reducing engine heat and wear. Engines with Nicasil coated cylinders run cooler and with less vibration. Lower friction also means easier and quicker engine starts. Also an additional benefit is that the piston and cylinder expand at the same rate, thus, creating a very seizure-resistant engine.Spam word
Something else to chew on guys...........
Heapster
03 TL Preddytor
404cc Banshee.
Jan 10, 2003 | 11:41 AM
#13
Trailblazer
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
oil for predator break in
03: Thanks for the well thought out reply...
And I do appreciate you bringing the subject up.
I believe I will take your advice and drain the oil etc.
I loath to take the White Bros. pipe off for 2 reasons....
1) It sounds Soooo Good
2) The head pipe to slip on gasket gets destroyed when you do the change
so I guess I'm going to have to get a new one of those. ( probably buy 2 or 3 )
But I fear you are correct...If not just a tad **** about this break in thing [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
And again you are correct that If taking a few precautions extends the life,reliability & performance
than it is time well spent.
See ya in the dunes!
And I do appreciate you bringing the subject up.
I believe I will take your advice and drain the oil etc.
I loath to take the White Bros. pipe off for 2 reasons....
1) It sounds Soooo Good
2) The head pipe to slip on gasket gets destroyed when you do the change
so I guess I'm going to have to get a new one of those. ( probably buy 2 or 3 )
But I fear you are correct...If not just a tad **** about this break in thing [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
And again you are correct that If taking a few precautions extends the life,reliability & performance
than it is time well spent.
See ya in the dunes!
Jan 10, 2003 | 11:43 AM
#14
Thread Starter
|
Range Rover
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
oil for predator break in
Heap: I hope you weren't taking to me. I was playing really nice. There is no flaming whatsoever in this thread. I don't flame, it's a pis$$in contest of little boys.
This is a good discussion. And the info you provided was excellent. I certainly did not know this. But it's good that we have this technology built into the predator if in fact we do.
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
This is a good discussion. And the info you provided was excellent. I certainly did not know this. But it's good that we have this technology built into the predator if in fact we do.
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Jan 10, 2003 | 11:46 AM
#15
Thread Starter
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Range Rover
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
oil for predator break in
Tres: Yeah man, make the most of your time and hard earned money. A little sacrificing now, bigger gains ahead. It's worth it. I know what you mean, are you crazy taking off a nice sounding exhaust just to use her for a few hours and then have to put it all back on?!! You nutz?! haha, yep! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Enjoy that beast.....I know I will mine!
Now I just have to figure out how to get those rezzys installed/charged up....
Enjoy that beast.....I know I will mine!
Now I just have to figure out how to get those rezzys installed/charged up....
Jan 10, 2003 | 11:53 AM
#17
Thread Starter
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Range Rover
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 148
Likes: 0
oil for predator break in
Sorry, got off topic with this.... .... [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
Oops....get caught up in being lazy typing....
Reservoirs for the front Fox shocks....I purchased those too..and in another one of my posts here I asked what to do with them....and someone mentioned that I needed to have them charged, they just don't bolt on and away you go. Takes some $$ and time to get it done. Trying to figure that out.....
Oops....get caught up in being lazy typing....
Reservoirs for the front Fox shocks....I purchased those too..and in another one of my posts here I asked what to do with them....and someone mentioned that I needed to have them charged, they just don't bolt on and away you go. Takes some $$ and time to get it done. Trying to figure that out.....
Jan 10, 2003 | 12:27 PM
#19
Pro Rider
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 585
Likes: 0
oil for predator break in
If you guys did a search in this forum you would find a thread dealing with the oil and first oil changes.....
The factory fill oil was a different color than the synthetic PS4 I refilled with. Could the original oil be non synthetic? Very possible. Polaris recommends first oil change at 1 hour run time, its in your manual.
I installed the WB slip-on after about 3 hours running time. I did not rejet as Polaris says not to. I can tell you I tried it that way for a way and then upped the main to 155, I could tell no difference and the plug looks the same.
The factory fill oil was a different color than the synthetic PS4 I refilled with. Could the original oil be non synthetic? Very possible. Polaris recommends first oil change at 1 hour run time, its in your manual.
I installed the WB slip-on after about 3 hours running time. I did not rejet as Polaris says not to. I can tell you I tried it that way for a way and then upped the main to 155, I could tell no difference and the plug looks the same.
Jan 10, 2003 | 12:42 PM
#20
Pro Rider
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 592
Likes: 0
oil for predator break in
hey truckracer you should post some pics of your predator on your page also i just dont understand this whole break-in thing everyones got a different method it seems whos better? whats really the safest? in my opinion a manufacturer is not going to put a break-in method in their owners manuals so that we can harm our engines and such obviously these must be the correct ways to break-in our engines otherwise a lot more quad owners out there would be in for a new engine so i say stick to what the manufacturer tells you to do..............not directed towards you truckracer to everyone in this thread.
