oil for predator break in
#21
Tres: Nah, my insurance co. won't insure me under those conditions. I just plan on flying high... [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Truck: I know what you're saying about the oil's color. Not sure what it's composed of. I do know though at 1 hour run time, the engine is NOT broken in for use with a synthetic blend. Check any 4 stroke engine break in reference.... Regarding the WB, gosh, I don't know what is best on that. I've read like 4 different scenarios on that now, both here and off this site. I'm going to go about that in a methodical way. Try it stock, and then deviate from there if necessary. Glad yours is working for ya! How she sound!?
bad: This is true. So many differing opinions. But there are a few ways that work better over others. Just check out those links I have above. Escpecially check this one Check the pics out towards the bottomhttp://, notice the owners manual was followed.
Like I said, who knows best, a certain misinformed/unknowing company making engines that use oil, or companies that make the oil for use in the engines? Or better yet, the people who actually have tried and true with R&D the different effects of engine break in process and the outcomes of each, comparing the use of conventional vs. synthetic blends.... Race teams and those who win for large sums of money do things in their best interest, nothing else. How serious is it then? 1-2HP and reliability can make or break a win at times. You get the pic. Follow your instinct and make your own best decision for your equip.....
Truck: I know what you're saying about the oil's color. Not sure what it's composed of. I do know though at 1 hour run time, the engine is NOT broken in for use with a synthetic blend. Check any 4 stroke engine break in reference.... Regarding the WB, gosh, I don't know what is best on that. I've read like 4 different scenarios on that now, both here and off this site. I'm going to go about that in a methodical way. Try it stock, and then deviate from there if necessary. Glad yours is working for ya! How she sound!?
bad: This is true. So many differing opinions. But there are a few ways that work better over others. Just check out those links I have above. Escpecially check this one Check the pics out towards the bottomhttp://, notice the owners manual was followed.
Like I said, who knows best, a certain misinformed/unknowing company making engines that use oil, or companies that make the oil for use in the engines? Or better yet, the people who actually have tried and true with R&D the different effects of engine break in process and the outcomes of each, comparing the use of conventional vs. synthetic blends.... Race teams and those who win for large sums of money do things in their best interest, nothing else. How serious is it then? 1-2HP and reliability can make or break a win at times. You get the pic. Follow your instinct and make your own best decision for your equip.....
#22
As truckracer had posted on a different forum.....
The suggestion from Superbikes.....
DO NOT RUN THE OPEN END CAP, the exhaust system does notprovide enough back pressure. use the back end plate & remove 2 of thediscs. use a 160 main, needle in the 3rd clip. remove the snorkel from the airbox-but only if your are not going in water.
Truckracer as you went to the 155 do you think it would be better to go with the 160?
did you change your clip position?
Also do you have the link to Superbike's?
The suggestion from Superbikes.....
DO NOT RUN THE OPEN END CAP, the exhaust system does notprovide enough back pressure. use the back end plate & remove 2 of thediscs. use a 160 main, needle in the 3rd clip. remove the snorkel from the airbox-but only if your are not going in water.
Truckracer as you went to the 155 do you think it would be better to go with the 160?
did you change your clip position?
Also do you have the link to Superbike's?
#23
OK, Nevermind I found the link to The Superbike shop its: http://www.esuperbikeshop.com/index.html
I called and talked with the Owner, Gary who is a really nice guy .
They are doing the R&D for the Polaris Predator for Polaris.
Kind of like Yoshimora (Sp?) is for Kawasaki ( His words )
He sounded very knowledgable and this is what he said...
Use the Motul 3000 ( 10/40) to break-in the bike
The WB pipe does not add enough horse power to effect the process..
He does recommend the jetting as quoted in my last post. But he said it is not enough of an issue
to worry about.
He has custom Billet Tenshioners, case covers and water pump covers that will be up on his website soon.
He is also going to have a forum for Predators as well.
Gary said to let everyone know that if they have questions to feel free to e-mail or call him.
Also he stated That the 500 engine in the Pred is freeking bullet proof!
He said Polaris probably over built the thing not wanting durability issues and that you can beat the heck
out of it. Anyway thought I'd share[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
I called and talked with the Owner, Gary who is a really nice guy .
They are doing the R&D for the Polaris Predator for Polaris.
Kind of like Yoshimora (Sp?) is for Kawasaki ( His words )
He sounded very knowledgable and this is what he said...
Use the Motul 3000 ( 10/40) to break-in the bike
The WB pipe does not add enough horse power to effect the process..
He does recommend the jetting as quoted in my last post. But he said it is not enough of an issue
to worry about.
He has custom Billet Tenshioners, case covers and water pump covers that will be up on his website soon.
He is also going to have a forum for Predators as well.
Gary said to let everyone know that if they have questions to feel free to e-mail or call him.
Also he stated That the 500 engine in the Pred is freeking bullet proof!
He said Polaris probably over built the thing not wanting durability issues and that you can beat the heck
out of it. Anyway thought I'd share[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]
#25
Just a thought. If you are using anything other than what the man. recommends and,heaven forbid, your motor grenades for any reason, will you have just p!$$ed away the warranty by use of non-recommended oil?
#26
Well thats a point...
But in the highly unlikely event that happens....
1) I don't think the tractor repairman that services the polaris is gonna figure that out &
2) I could refill the engine with PS-4 before I take it to him [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
But in the highly unlikely event that happens....
1) I don't think the tractor repairman that services the polaris is gonna figure that out &
2) I could refill the engine with PS-4 before I take it to him [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#27
28.00 for three filters and o rings seam a little high the orings are a buck and filter about 5 should be about twenty bucks?
as for oil the oil you drain out after 1 hr is differnt oil than ps4
i put wb slip on didnt rejet runs great sounds cool too
as for oil the oil you drain out after 1 hr is differnt oil than ps4
i put wb slip on didnt rejet runs great sounds cool too
#28
scoot: Yes, the oil they put in from the factory is different than the PS4 stuff. According to the mechanic that did a walk through on the bike with us on Sat said it is CONVENTIONAL, non synthetic oil. I asked him if he was 100% certain, he said yes. But that's still not verified in my mind.
There is no reason you can't run the brand of oil/blend you prefer once broken in. Polaris does not dictate nor does any other manufacturer of this sort have the authority to tell you which one you can or cannot run. They can only give you recommendations (the warranty will not expire). Now, I would sincerly hope you would follow the guidelines of which oil suits your bike best, like wet clutch oils or changing at least or even more so than what is recommended. Run oils designed for four strokes, not 2 strokes, common sense goes a long way. Now, if you have dirty oil and the shop can tell you hardly change your oil, yes, the warranty is now void.
I'll try to find some cheaper places to buy the filters/orings....
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
There is no reason you can't run the brand of oil/blend you prefer once broken in. Polaris does not dictate nor does any other manufacturer of this sort have the authority to tell you which one you can or cannot run. They can only give you recommendations (the warranty will not expire). Now, I would sincerly hope you would follow the guidelines of which oil suits your bike best, like wet clutch oils or changing at least or even more so than what is recommended. Run oils designed for four strokes, not 2 strokes, common sense goes a long way. Now, if you have dirty oil and the shop can tell you hardly change your oil, yes, the warranty is now void.
I'll try to find some cheaper places to buy the filters/orings....
[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
#29
Interesting ideas and opinions. Kinda think after 3 years of R&D to produce this machine, Polaris engineers are very well informed when it comes to engines, and the lubrication requirements for them. Just remember you have clutches and trans gears sharing this lube. Through years of working in the maint. industry, and building many engines for myself and others (cars, boats, planes, r/c) you are always gonna have soooo many ideas and opinions. Through all the testing, if they fill the quad with a factory recommended break-in oil, then suggest another specified lube to use afterwards, don't you think they maybe tested this? Why take the chance on inducing potential problems with something so inexpensive as the lube you run in it. Do what you want, there's PS4 in my Predator, and that's the way it's gonna stay.
Ken
Ken
#30
Ken,
What you say makes a lot of sense. Polaris does have a certain level of credibility, but by no means experts on oil like others in the racing/oil industry. Moreover, no one in their right mind will dispute that synthetic oil SHOULD NOT be used during break in.
Now, here's where opinion starts to play in. Do you think all crucial aspects of break in occur within one hour's time?
Once you have determined where break in is in essense completed, switch to synthetic if that's your desire. Of course, PS4 is 100% ideal for this engine, as are other relative 4 stroke motorcycle engine synthetics.
Enjoy your bike....[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
What you say makes a lot of sense. Polaris does have a certain level of credibility, but by no means experts on oil like others in the racing/oil industry. Moreover, no one in their right mind will dispute that synthetic oil SHOULD NOT be used during break in.
Now, here's where opinion starts to play in. Do you think all crucial aspects of break in occur within one hour's time?
Once you have determined where break in is in essense completed, switch to synthetic if that's your desire. Of course, PS4 is 100% ideal for this engine, as are other relative 4 stroke motorcycle engine synthetics.
Enjoy your bike....[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]


