THE REASON YOU SHOULD DO IT WITH A RELAY IS THAT SOONER OR LATER THE SWITCH WILL BURN OUT.

 

kblazk,

I've been putting the switch in the middle, but the problem is it only takes a bump or two and it jumps to either high or low. I just finally got tired of fixing it 20 times a night. Most of our (the ATV club I belong to) and my riding is at night. Between work and family I hardly ever get to go before dark 30. I would have ordered the kit but after a year of fixing problems with a CC# stolen off the web I didn't feel
comfortable doing that. Hey now I'm rambling, anyway, I've done the mod and it works. Later all.

 

RedSportsman500ho
Thank you for replying to this thread. I will try the instructions and wire my atv this weekend. I may need to ask you a couple of questions. If I have any I will post them in this forum. Thanks again for replying and thanks for the help

dbass

 

They are doing exactly what I described above.

 

I have all this good stuff posted at ATV Frontier, check it out.

Converting your Pod light type Polaris Sportsman so that when the high beam selector is on, the bumper lights are also on. (3 headlamps) and when low beam is selected, only the bumper lights are on.

The nicest thing about this mod is that you do not need to cut any wires or drill any holes.

You will need to purchase a standard 4 pin, 12v relay, 4 pieces of 16 gauge wire about 8" long, 4 female crimp on spade connectors(for connection of wires to relay), 4 wire splice connectors.(they are usually blue and you simply insert the wires and squeeze with pliers, then fold back the protective locking cover)

Open the pod and locate the wiring listed below

Relay terminal #30 connect to Polaris green wire (low beams)
Relay terminal #87 connect to Polaris red wire (10 amp protected circuit at the lighter plug)
Relay terminal #86 connect to Polaris wire yellow wire (high beam)
Relay terminal #85 connect to Polaris brown wire (ground)

Use dielectric grease or liquid tape at all electrical connections to prevent corrosion.

They way this functions, is that when you select high beam, you are powering up the relay to give 12v to the low beam circuit from Polaris's 10amp 12v protected circuit. (No fuse needed) Enjoy.

 

It is much easier to the the headlight mod by putting a diode between the dark green and the yellow wires. This will allow the voltage to go thru to the "high beam" lamp and the "low beam" lamp when the high beams are on and not when the switch is on low beams. If you want any more info let me know.

 

The only problem with that is the current for all three bulbs is going through the high beam switch, but we don't know what the current rating is for the switch so it might be able to withstand it. I had a similar situation controlling the spotlights on my Harley, the high beam switch would control them but it got very hot so I used a 12 volt 30 amp relay so all that current is not going through the high beam switch.

 

The way I wired my lights so all 3 are on in the high position:
Parts needed:
1 Relay capable of handling at least 5 amps.
4 Spade connectors.
1 Ring terminal
3 Wire taps
2'+/- 12 guage wire, depending on relay mounting point. All items can be bought at auto supply stores, Walmart etc.
Remove upper part of headlight pod.
Find a mounting location for the relay and drill hole to mount. Mine is mounted on the steering stem's support bracket, on the right side of the machine.
Trace wiring harness down from the handlebars from light switch.
Cut some of the harness' cover(inside pod) to access wires within.
Find the green(Low Beam) and yellow(High beam) wires. Use a test light to verify your wires.
Find the RED wire for the power port(center terminal), located in the pod.
Using the wire taps(on wires) and spade connectors(on relay), connect the RED wire to Terminal #87, Green to Terminal #30 and Yellow to Terminal #86. Do not cut any wires, use the taps or solder them together.
Connect terminal #85 to ground, using a spade connector and ring terminal. I connected the ring terminal to the relay's mounting screw for my ground.
I also used silicone to seal all connections.
The power port is on a 10 amp breaker, so no fuse is needed. With this setup, When the light switch is in the low position, just the low beams are on. With the switch in the high position, all three are on.
The high beams pull in the relay and it puts power to the low beams. The relay get it's power from the power port to power the low beams in the high position only. When the low position is selected, the low beams gets it's power from the handle bar mounted switch as normal. Confused?
High position: High beam gets power fron handle bar switch, Low beam from the power port.
Low position: Low beams gets power from handle bar switch, High beams are off.
I did this so the handle bar mounted switch doesn't get over-loaded from all 3 light being on at once.
All 3 lights on at once draw about 9 amps. 50 watt high and 2 27 watt lows =104 watts. 104 watts divided by 12 volts = 8.6 amps. Most machines, when running, generate about 14 volts, so the amperage needed will be lower when the machine is running.

 

This is almost funny, the same wiring scheme has been covered about a dozen different times, a dozen different ways using a simple 12 volt relay.

 

Well, seeing as it's basically covered from here to there in several different forums, guess it should work good. I'd like to thank everyone for their help. That's the reason I go to these forums is to get the help.