k&n univents
#1
k&n univents
Hey Modquad,
What do you recommend for getting the pred more air. I'm thinking of getting rid of the airbox all together and runing a k@n right from the carb with a waterproof outerwear ( do you know where I can get a water proof outerwear?). Also can you explain univents to me - benefits - and where you get them - how they are installed - ect.
Thanks,
Jeff
03 PRED
W/B slip on
39 tooth rear sprocket
shock covers
What do you recommend for getting the pred more air. I'm thinking of getting rid of the airbox all together and runing a k@n right from the carb with a waterproof outerwear ( do you know where I can get a water proof outerwear?). Also can you explain univents to me - benefits - and where you get them - how they are installed - ect.
Thanks,
Jeff
03 PRED
W/B slip on
39 tooth rear sprocket
shock covers
#2
k&n univents
Hi Jeff.
Not Modquad, but I'll reply anyway! I'm running the K&N slip-on #RU-1770, with an outerwear, they are both available from Rocky Mountain ATV, and many other web distributors. I'm also running the Dynojet stage three jet kit, with a DJ 175 main, the DJ needle on the 2nd clip from the top, and a Mijuni #50 pilot jet. I have my mixture screw out at about 3.5 turns. I run the W/B slip on with 8 discs and the quiet core insert at the end.
This Dynojet combo just screams on my quad. It does pop, but only at 8500 where the crappy stock CDI box starts to retard the timing. I have added a good quality tach and learned to shift at 8000 rpm, and this thing just screams. I think if you wanted to go with this setup, you might need only a DJ 170 main jet, at your altitude. I ride at sea level in the desert.
I will be adding a Vortex CDI box later this month, and that will make life even better. It has 10 power programs, and can be switched for one to another by a handlebar mounted switch, plus an adjustable rev limiter. NO MORE POPPING, and a little over rev capability.
Good luck,
JJ
Not Modquad, but I'll reply anyway! I'm running the K&N slip-on #RU-1770, with an outerwear, they are both available from Rocky Mountain ATV, and many other web distributors. I'm also running the Dynojet stage three jet kit, with a DJ 175 main, the DJ needle on the 2nd clip from the top, and a Mijuni #50 pilot jet. I have my mixture screw out at about 3.5 turns. I run the W/B slip on with 8 discs and the quiet core insert at the end.
This Dynojet combo just screams on my quad. It does pop, but only at 8500 where the crappy stock CDI box starts to retard the timing. I have added a good quality tach and learned to shift at 8000 rpm, and this thing just screams. I think if you wanted to go with this setup, you might need only a DJ 170 main jet, at your altitude. I ride at sea level in the desert.
I will be adding a Vortex CDI box later this month, and that will make life even better. It has 10 power programs, and can be switched for one to another by a handlebar mounted switch, plus an adjustable rev limiter. NO MORE POPPING, and a little over rev capability.
Good luck,
JJ
#3
k&n univents
JJ, sometimes it might work, but normally at the 3 turns out, the mixture screw stops affecting da mix...but if it works, more power to you.
Jeff, I run the setup that JJ has on my modded Sport, works great. Like JJ said, Rocky Mountain, Hot Seat, and others can get you that gear. Hot Seat just cam out with a setup that keeps the stock snout from the airbox to the carb, then mounts a nice billet oval piece along with a jumbo K&N on the rear. They'll have the waterproof Outerwears also.
The Uni-vents are just a push-in installation. You drill a 1" hole then push them in til they snap. I have 5 of them on the rear face of the airbox. Three down the middle, and one flanking on each side. They have a simple little foam filter, you wash with soap and re-oil.
Jeff, I run the setup that JJ has on my modded Sport, works great. Like JJ said, Rocky Mountain, Hot Seat, and others can get you that gear. Hot Seat just cam out with a setup that keeps the stock snout from the airbox to the carb, then mounts a nice billet oval piece along with a jumbo K&N on the rear. They'll have the waterproof Outerwears also.
The Uni-vents are just a push-in installation. You drill a 1" hole then push them in til they snap. I have 5 of them on the rear face of the airbox. Three down the middle, and one flanking on each side. They have a simple little foam filter, you wash with soap and re-oil.
#4
k&n univents
Hi Ken and JJ, Thanks for the reply,
Ken I'm just wondering why your not running the K&N 1770 on your predator - did you try it and it doesnt work as good as univents? I've read that not using the stock airbox hurts the backflow causing the popping - Is this true?
Thanks.
Jeff
03 PRED
W/B slip on
39 tooth rear sprocket
PRM radiator scoops
shock covers
Ken I'm just wondering why your not running the K&N 1770 on your predator - did you try it and it doesnt work as good as univents? I've read that not using the stock airbox hurts the backflow causing the popping - Is this true?
Thanks.
Jeff
03 PRED
W/B slip on
39 tooth rear sprocket
PRM radiator scoops
shock covers
#5
k&n univents
Hi Jeff,
I have not had my Predator on a dyno, but I don't believe that the lack of the air filter "tube" is causing me to loose any real horsepower. I spoke at length to the folks at Dynojet, who dynoed 6-8 different Predators, in a variety of pipe/airbox combinations, while doing their kit workup. They told me that the stock air box on the Predator is VERY sensitive to changes, as I had already discovered by using a variety of Mikuni jets and normal jetting/tuning methods. They specifically told me that they DO NOT do a stage III (Slip-on Filter) setup unless it works well and is making good power. If you look at their web site you will see that not all their kits are offered with a stage III option.
I'm sure that some of these other kits and airfilters on the market work, but I like the simplistic approach, for ease of service, the elimination of another series of potential "leak points", and the power the slip on/Stage III jetting is giving me. I have found that in most cases the popping is the factory CDI box, retarding timing as it hits the rev limiter. All stock Predators I have been exposed to have this problem, it is just not as noticable with a stock factory exhaust. The popping is very amplififed by the open style performance exhausts in use on these 4-strokes.
When Polaris finally does change the factory CDI box, and eliminate this problem, it will be a great day for a great quad. I have just learned to live with the fact that I will have to buy an aftermarket CDI to stop the popping problem. I can't really complain, though, because my Pred is hauling *** right now, as is, and I just shift it at 8000 rpm and avoid the pops. As it is set, with the factory timing curve that is programmed into the factory CDI, it stops making horsepower at 8000 rpm anyway. So I would have probably bought the Vortex CDI anyway, to have gome great adjustability from the handlebar. You can set it for more low end if you are riding tight trails, or more midrange for MX events, and more top end for sand and drags, etc.
This is a great quad, so stick it out during your adjustment woes, learn to set up your suspension right, and then just change the oil, add gas and enjoy.
Good luck and take care,
JJ
I have not had my Predator on a dyno, but I don't believe that the lack of the air filter "tube" is causing me to loose any real horsepower. I spoke at length to the folks at Dynojet, who dynoed 6-8 different Predators, in a variety of pipe/airbox combinations, while doing their kit workup. They told me that the stock air box on the Predator is VERY sensitive to changes, as I had already discovered by using a variety of Mikuni jets and normal jetting/tuning methods. They specifically told me that they DO NOT do a stage III (Slip-on Filter) setup unless it works well and is making good power. If you look at their web site you will see that not all their kits are offered with a stage III option.
I'm sure that some of these other kits and airfilters on the market work, but I like the simplistic approach, for ease of service, the elimination of another series of potential "leak points", and the power the slip on/Stage III jetting is giving me. I have found that in most cases the popping is the factory CDI box, retarding timing as it hits the rev limiter. All stock Predators I have been exposed to have this problem, it is just not as noticable with a stock factory exhaust. The popping is very amplififed by the open style performance exhausts in use on these 4-strokes.
When Polaris finally does change the factory CDI box, and eliminate this problem, it will be a great day for a great quad. I have just learned to live with the fact that I will have to buy an aftermarket CDI to stop the popping problem. I can't really complain, though, because my Pred is hauling *** right now, as is, and I just shift it at 8000 rpm and avoid the pops. As it is set, with the factory timing curve that is programmed into the factory CDI, it stops making horsepower at 8000 rpm anyway. So I would have probably bought the Vortex CDI anyway, to have gome great adjustability from the handlebar. You can set it for more low end if you are riding tight trails, or more midrange for MX events, and more top end for sand and drags, etc.
This is a great quad, so stick it out during your adjustment woes, learn to set up your suspension right, and then just change the oil, add gas and enjoy.
Good luck and take care,
JJ
#6
k&n univents
Jeff, no real reason for not having changed to the open element. Like JJ stated, it sure would help maint. access. The Sport is soooo easy. Guess I'm gonna do some harescrambles with the Predator, so I figured I'd leave it alone. Some summer day I might try it though, cause the one one the Sport will fit.
#7
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#8
k&n univents
Ken have you ever tried racing your modded sport against your PRED - LOL - just wondering. I'm thinking the pred would eat it up on the top end but have seen some pretty damn fast modded sports [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
Jeff
03 PRED
W/B slip on
39 tooth rear sprocket
PRM radiator scoops
shock covers
Jeff
03 PRED
W/B slip on
39 tooth rear sprocket
PRM radiator scoops
shock covers
#9
k&n univents
Bell, I have 5 of the 6 Univents installed. Works great, no problems. The little sponges clean up really easy.
Jeff, I haven't had the chance to run the machines against each other. I'll find out this summer with some different trips to some timed drags. Gotta travel all the way down to St Louis to find one (unless someone knows of one closer). Both machines have been a blast. I've kinda turned the Sport into a drag machine, while keeping that blast of a Predator ride for the woods. Never thought I'd like a 4-stroker.....this thing really changed my mind.
Jeff, I haven't had the chance to run the machines against each other. I'll find out this summer with some different trips to some timed drags. Gotta travel all the way down to St Louis to find one (unless someone knows of one closer). Both machines have been a blast. I've kinda turned the Sport into a drag machine, while keeping that blast of a Predator ride for the woods. Never thought I'd like a 4-stroker.....this thing really changed my mind.
#10
k&n univents
Mod what set up are you running on your pred? Did you jet it? I live in Alaska. I am thinking of going to a 14 front 38-39 rear sproket. I was also thinking of getting that Air Force Jet and Air box kit. I have the stock razors on it. I was just wondering....Do you have that W/b e series pipe also? How many rings do you have it in?