I have a 94 Kawasaki bayou 300 4x4. I just replaced the timing chain and tensioner, put new values in the head, and new primary and secondary clutches in it. The clutch was slipping before just on take off and on a incline but now it slipping on take off and even flat ground. The secondary clutch plates are very loose in the basket are they supposed to be tight or loose? How do I fix it and what did I do wrong I put everything back together exactly as it was but didn't notice if they were tight before changing them.

 

The whole pack of secondary clutch plates should be tight together but have to slide in the outer basket so are not tight on that. Did you re-set the clutch adjuster after the rebuild? The first Quad clutch I rebuilt, I didn't get the splines on the outside of the centre parts lined up when putting the four bolts back in, can't remember the symptoms, but the clutch didn't work and the back steel plate was bent, luckily the old steel plates were OK so I re-fitted one of them and made sure those splines lined up next time.

 

Are you talking about the adjustment on the outside cover? I did adjust that one with no difference. The new plates are not tight at all. It acts like I'm missing some but I took 5 disk and 4 steel plates out and put 5 disk and 4 steel plates back in

 

Yes, the adjuster is on the outside of the clutch cover.

The steel plates move along splines on the clutch centre, but some of those splines are on the back part of the centre, are the splines lined up, and is the back steel plate on them?

 

I had the same problem. I took it apart 4 times, read the walk through several times in the manual.
It would not stop slipping.
So I just added another friction plate and ive been riding for the whole season probably 40 hours so far.
Never worked better

 

I have this same problem!

WHICH plate did you add, one with the friction material or a metal plate?

Still running good?

 

If the pack of plates don't tighten up together, when you tighten the four springs, then they must be worn out, or there is a problem with the clutch centre splines. After all they have been working with that number of plates since the bike was new. I can't see how you could just add one plate, the sequence has to be so that each friction plate is rubbing against a steel plate. KLF300 clutches are inclined to slip. Eiger/400King Quads are the same. So I check and adjust them at every service. With Hondas I just road test them and if they don't slip on a certain hill in third, regard the clutch as OK.

 

Thanks for replying, Merryman!
Jugglethese is the first one I've seen who posted a solution that supposedly worked for this particular problem. Maybe it's common, since you say they "are inclined to slip?"

IF this was a valid solution, my first thought is to add an extra metal plate tight against another, probably in the middle of the stack. It has teeth, so it won't slip, but should work like a thicker plate. This MIGHT increase spring tension a bit, causing more grip? This is just a theory, based on his comment. That's why I asked for more detail, although he is probably long gone by now.

Below, I copied the original post, which describes my problem exactly. Let me know what you think...

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CaptainKen wrote:
Experienced retired mechanic here and ATV/motorcycle mechanic. This one is throwing me a curve...

1999 Lakota. Bought not running. Got running and clutch was lazy in 4th and 5th gear. Adjustment was already correct and shifts smooth. I adjusted by loosening the nut and turned clockwise (loosening play in clutch) until slight resistance and then counterclockwise adjusted till slightest resistance then tightened. (Taking slack out of clutch) No difference, so I took it apart.

Primary looked good plus idles and moves like normal when you hit from idle. Replaced secondary clutches with EBC kit. Plates, steels, springs. Used ATV wet clutch oil Valvoline 10w40 and soaked overnight. Clutch adjusted same method. Clockwise till resistance then counter till slight resistance then lock down nut. Doing same thing. If you are at wide open throttle it will slip. It's lazy in 3rd 4th 5th and hotter it gets the worse it gets.

Everything looks great by the book on install. I've taken apart 2x and re-checked everything. This has really got me stumped. I had a Lakota back in 2002 that would do a wheelie if you shifted 1 to 2 or to 3 without lifting but this one is lazy if I power shift 1 to 2. Easy riding, it will slip 4th and 5th when rpms come up. Any ideas? I'm losing my mind. Any help will really be much appreciated. I'm missing something guys.
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If we skip the idea of adding an extra disk for a moment, what would be your next move be, since the parts are brand new?

I don't know if he deglazed before adding the new parts, but that's about the only thing I can think of. Using a 2 inch 100 grit disk to add a little texture to the surface, maybe.

What do you think?

Thanks again. It's really hard to get anyone to respond to this issue.

 

Yes, I hadn't thought of it, the two metal plates would act as one due to them both being fixed by the lugs. I guess it would increase pressure on the springs. I have had a slipping KLF, with plates that seemed thick enough, so roughed the friction plates a bit with coarse emery, it worked fine afterwards. Worth doing it to the centrifugal shoes too, you can't tell which clutch is actually slipping. Centrifugals usually work fine until the shoes wear down to the metal, but glazed plates and shoes do slip and get worse the longer they are left.

 

We have a trip to the Hatfield-McCoy trails this week, and I wanted it to be tighter, but I think I'm going to leave them alone until after the trip. It rides great for back in the woods. Only issue is on the road, especially if on an uphill grade. That's when you notice it. Keep it under 40, and it's not much of an issue.

The centrifugal clutches are great, and the shift clutches are relatively new, both being replaced right before I got the machine, about 25 running hours ago (2 years)

After the trip, I'm going to go into the clutch and see if anything looks glazed, particularly the drum face. I have new clutches and I plan to deglaze with a sanding disk, but I may try adding a plate if the friction material doesn't look too bad.

I have a feeling this is going to work, but I'll wait until I try before getting too excited.