Basic Upgrades?
#1
hey, i am a 13 year old with a 300ex. I am lookin for some basic, semi cheap, upgrades to make my quad a little more powerful and faster. It is all stock right now. I could also use some recomendation on some good rear snow rear(since i live in MI). THanks
#3
im 13 and i have a 400ex that has a after market end cap that i bought that goes on the stock muffler. that gave it more power but it makes it louder and deeper sound also removing the air box lid can give you more power (as long as you dont go in any water)
#4
sorry but i just looked and they dont make any and cap for a 300ex but the web site is 2rracing.com anyways a air filter would help and probly a exhaust system and i dont know any thing about snow tires
#6
popping your airbox lid off, a full exhuast set (a little pricey between companies, a simple slip on silencer would be fine if you dont feel like spending 400 bucks for a full exhuast) a new air filter, and jetting the carburator propperly would help alot. as far as snow tires, a wide high traction tire to help you stand ontop of snow would help you alot, if your going to be on ice though, high pressure i would reccomend so theres more pounds per square inch on the ice, allowing better traction.
i found this website, that deals with 250ex and 300ex performance:
http://www.powroll.com/P_HONDA_TRX250X-300EX.htm
as far as your exhuast set up, check these companys:
FMF
HMF
White Bros.
Big Gun
as far as airfilter:
K&N
Twin-Air
Uni
and jets for your carb:
Dyno-Jet
all of these can be found on their corporate store websites through google.
i found this website, that deals with 250ex and 300ex performance:
http://www.powroll.com/P_HONDA_TRX250X-300EX.htm
as far as your exhuast set up, check these companys:
FMF
HMF
White Bros.
Big Gun
as far as airfilter:
K&N
Twin-Air
Uni
and jets for your carb:
Dyno-Jet
all of these can be found on their corporate store websites through google.
#7
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#8
on snow, yes
mainly because, snow is light and fluffy, and you want to stay ontop of it to achive max traction for stearing and acceleration and stopping. the lower pressure tire squishes out further from the rim to give a larger foot note, which has less pressure Per Square Inch which makes less of a dent (less weight in one spot pushes down less) alowing you to float more ontop instead of sinking for maximum traction.
on ice, you want more air pressure so your tire gets rounder and all the pressure gets put on a very small spot, which like mentioned above (exept oposit) and since ice is slick and rubber + ice = very bad, the more pressure you have in one spot, the more friction you'll have against the ice, which would equal more traction in the slicker area.
the easyest way to understand both of the principles would be with a womans high heel shoe. if you walk in snow with a high heel shoe, your going to sink into it and have to work alot harder pushing the snow down and out of the way, but if you have snow shoes, your weight is more evenly devided over a area so you can walk ontop of the snow and not worry about sinking in. if you were on ice with snow shoes were moving things and compacting things arnt an issue, your snow shoes become useless and you technicly weigh less over the section that your standing in so you have less traction, so if you have the high heels, you can dig them into the ice letting you throw yourself further and faster.
understand?
mainly because, snow is light and fluffy, and you want to stay ontop of it to achive max traction for stearing and acceleration and stopping. the lower pressure tire squishes out further from the rim to give a larger foot note, which has less pressure Per Square Inch which makes less of a dent (less weight in one spot pushes down less) alowing you to float more ontop instead of sinking for maximum traction.
on ice, you want more air pressure so your tire gets rounder and all the pressure gets put on a very small spot, which like mentioned above (exept oposit) and since ice is slick and rubber + ice = very bad, the more pressure you have in one spot, the more friction you'll have against the ice, which would equal more traction in the slicker area.
the easyest way to understand both of the principles would be with a womans high heel shoe. if you walk in snow with a high heel shoe, your going to sink into it and have to work alot harder pushing the snow down and out of the way, but if you have snow shoes, your weight is more evenly devided over a area so you can walk ontop of the snow and not worry about sinking in. if you were on ice with snow shoes were moving things and compacting things arnt an issue, your snow shoes become useless and you technicly weigh less over the section that your standing in so you have less traction, so if you have the high heels, you can dig them into the ice letting you throw yourself further and faster.
understand?
#9
If i were to buy a jet kick would i also have to by a air filter or pipe, and if i bought a pipe would i have to buy a filter and jet kick, and if i bought a filter would i have to buy a jet kick and pipe. Sorry for the questions, but i have never done this before. thanks
#10
if your going to leave your exhuast and intake stock, you dont need a jetkit. if your going to put a new exhuast on but no intake, you dont need a jetkit, if your going to put a intake on and no exhuast, you might want to do a jetkit. if you do an intake and an exhuast you deffenetly need to do a jetkit
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