help between 450s???
#91
Use to be that "diesel" oils had a decent high-pressure additive package, and weren't a bad choice for an integrated motorcycle transmission. But, recently they got "reformulated" with downgraded levels of ZDDP (just like car oils did back when!) to make them catalytic converter compatible, and no longer contain optimum levels.
Consider this when making your oil choices!!!
Consider this when making your oil choices!!!
The first thing to understand is that not all zinc/ZDDP additives are created equally.
So with that in mind, today more does not always mean better with the stuff. They have gotten creative with it... and it has now been proven that it is more about the quality of the zinc than the content in ppm.
Also, for what it is worth... the 15W-40 Rotella T with Triple Protection oil has approximately 1200 ppm of zinc and 1100 ppm phosphorus.
This would be good reading for you.
Shell Rotella T - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
And this too... because I think Shell's formulation actually got better...
- What is Triple Protection?
#92
My two cents...
Reverse is a critical factor to consider, especially for a "trail" quad...yes, you should be able to pull the weight of the quad backwards, but that gets really old at the end of the day's ride when you are riding back to the truck.
Having ridden and raced a TRX250R for several years on tracks and trails, I can tell you that the 4-stroke 450s have plenty of torque by comparison.
The Raptor 700 has considerably more power than a z400, and if you do basic mods to it, it will have considerably more than a 450.
You might look at the last several issues of Dirtwheels where they did comparisons on trail ready 450s...the KTM seemed to be set up pretty well, as did the Polaris.
My choice for a "trail" quad? The Raptor 700. EFI and reverse are features that are hard to beat, and if it doesn't seem powerful enough stock, you can get a lot of power from some simple mods
Reverse is a critical factor to consider, especially for a "trail" quad...yes, you should be able to pull the weight of the quad backwards, but that gets really old at the end of the day's ride when you are riding back to the truck.
Having ridden and raced a TRX250R for several years on tracks and trails, I can tell you that the 4-stroke 450s have plenty of torque by comparison.
The Raptor 700 has considerably more power than a z400, and if you do basic mods to it, it will have considerably more than a 450.
You might look at the last several issues of Dirtwheels where they did comparisons on trail ready 450s...the KTM seemed to be set up pretty well, as did the Polaris.
My choice for a "trail" quad? The Raptor 700. EFI and reverse are features that are hard to beat, and if it doesn't seem powerful enough stock, you can get a lot of power from some simple mods
#93
i know that the z400s and the kfx 400s are nearly identical because the both have the exact same stator and flywheel/starter set up the same parts go into both engines so i would not be surprised iif the 450s had some similiar engine parts also i own a new yfz 450r and motor and suspension wise i would take it over the kfx i do agree that the narrow suspension would be a plus in the woods but however in an overall catetgory of terrain i would take my bike it is such an improvement over the old style yfz and it absorbs so much more making me more able to keep my power to the ground instead of the back end jumping up anywhere if you wanna go faster and have a nicer ride i would pick the yfz but it does come with what i think its 2" wider so that is a drawback
#94
i know that the z400s and the kfx 400s are nearly identical because the both have the exact same stator and flywheel/starter set up the same parts go into both engines so i would not be surprised iif the 450s had some similiar engine parts also i own a new yfz 450r and motor and suspension wise i would take it over the kfx i do agree that the narrow suspension would be a plus in the woods but however in an overall catetgory of terrain i would take my bike it is such an improvement over the old style yfz and it absorbs so much more making me more able to keep my power to the ground instead of the back end jumping up anywhere if you wanna go faster and have a nicer ride i would pick the yfz but it does come with what i think its 2" wider so that is a drawback
Let's face it, the Z400 was hard to compete with for a 400.
Even Suzuki couldn't best their first prototype... not until now when weight stopped being such a tight restriction.
Kawasaki and Artic Cat set up deals for a supply of clones.
Kawasaki then started putting all their R&D towards the KFX 450R, and took their time... and it shows in the end product I think... however, it also put them last to the market. So the others had already captured most of the marketplace.
So it does not share any parts with the Suzuki... although it might be a better machine if it had Suzuki's wiring and fuel injection setup?
The width is right for the woods though, and it's very stable for stock at that width... and there's no kicking or bucking like there is on the Honda or plain YFZ. The suspension is really good for stock. Plus I gained reverse for the woods too.
#95
Thank you... I read it all and it was all good reading to me.
I tend to side with sportrider though... as that seems most in line with other reading I have done.
(#1) I'm one of the ones who thinks they shouldn't be able to call it synthetic unless the base is all PAO or Ester or a combo. I understand the group III is pretty good and can rival these in some things... but so can some really well refined dino labeled oils.
Anyways, it just causes too much confusion in my opinion. So now I would like to see oils advertised by the grouping and percentage. That's the fair and right way.
As for the Rotella syn... I really think there is little difference in base quality compared to the regular Rotella. Lots of folks like and have good results with the Rotella syn.... it's just does not impress me much in a few applications. In my opinion it does not 'cling' very well... and I think a lot of that is because in some applications it shears down from an SAE40 pretty quick.
(#2) It faded fast in the Kawi, and the sight glass allowed me to see it took air entrainment pretty quick too. Came out like water almost too. The 15w40 Rotella has proven to be more stable.... and I think the bottom line is that the base is similar in quality, but heavier, and it contains less viscosity index improvers... 35 is a much larger range to cover than 25.
I'm thinking that for motorcycle use, a fellow would have to go to a much more expensive synthetic oil to get a much better oil than the Rotella 15w40.
Amsoil Motorcycle, Mobil 1 Motorcycle test well... 20w50 testing better than 10w40 on both... and 15w50 Mobil 1 seems to do well too. (#3) But I don't remember if Maxima or Bel Ray or some of the others were included... I'll have to check.
I tend to side with sportrider though... as that seems most in line with other reading I have done.
(#1) I'm one of the ones who thinks they shouldn't be able to call it synthetic unless the base is all PAO or Ester or a combo. I understand the group III is pretty good and can rival these in some things... but so can some really well refined dino labeled oils.
Anyways, it just causes too much confusion in my opinion. So now I would like to see oils advertised by the grouping and percentage. That's the fair and right way.
As for the Rotella syn... I really think there is little difference in base quality compared to the regular Rotella. Lots of folks like and have good results with the Rotella syn.... it's just does not impress me much in a few applications. In my opinion it does not 'cling' very well... and I think a lot of that is because in some applications it shears down from an SAE40 pretty quick.
(#2) It faded fast in the Kawi, and the sight glass allowed me to see it took air entrainment pretty quick too. Came out like water almost too. The 15w40 Rotella has proven to be more stable.... and I think the bottom line is that the base is similar in quality, but heavier, and it contains less viscosity index improvers... 35 is a much larger range to cover than 25.
I'm thinking that for motorcycle use, a fellow would have to go to a much more expensive synthetic oil to get a much better oil than the Rotella 15w40.
Amsoil Motorcycle, Mobil 1 Motorcycle test well... 20w50 testing better than 10w40 on both... and 15w50 Mobil 1 seems to do well too. (#3) But I don't remember if Maxima or Bel Ray or some of the others were included... I'll have to check.
(#1) I still feel the same about the grouping... I think it should have to specify, etc. However, if Mobil 1 is in fact not a "true" synthetic anymore, I can't say as I can see a real big difference in them test-wise. So I can kind of see how Castrol was able to sway a court of law over synthetic labeling. More in #3.
(#2) I've stuck with the theory and tested, upping viscosity and lowering viscosity index improvers, and I can tell a certain marked difference in each step I have taken. Simply put, the engine, and probably mostly the trans just beats these oils... and the ones with lower viscosities, viscosity indexes, and high levels of viscosity index improvers just get beat down faster. And I think a lot of in occurs in the trans.... and as an end result is also why I feel the change in the trans and have been using it as a gauge as to when to drain. I think I'm feeling the viscosity index improvers (polymers) starting to break down in the trans and reduce it's superb feel.
(#3) Maxima and BelRay were included in the tests. However, please note that I have not seen testing on the full-syn Maxima... Only the Maxum4 syn-blend.
Both performed well, rather it was 10w40 or 20w50 being tested. However, neither seemed to show any significant advantage over the rest.
Comparing 10w40's the Maxima and Bel-Ray seem to test on average 5th and 6th respectively when considering ALL aspects.
However, I was really shocked to see several industry standard (ASTM D-1748) tests for rust protection, and how many motorcycle oils failed. Bel-Ray was one of them... as was Castrol, Vavoline, Pennzoil, Royal Purple, Golden Spectro and Motul.
That was pretty shocking to me.
Especially considering motorcyles and ATV's tend to be left sitting a good bit.
Therefore, none of those will make their way into my engines.
Moving back to the Maxima now, it does seem to be a VERY GOOD oil. Like I said though, about a 4th place finisher. The quality that does stand out the highest is it's HEAVY dose of ZINC. It's higher than anything I have seen. But yet it's about a 5th place finisher again in wear protection.
It's a top performer, tieing in gear performance, oxidation stability, and rust protection.
It is weak in shear stability, viscosity index, volitility, and also TBN.
Those things are what make it place behind the other 4.
However, 2 of those 4 fail the rust test, so to me it gets a solid 3rd for 10w40... right behind Mobil 1 and Amsoil.
The weakness in shear stability, viscosity index, volitility and TBN are obviously offset a great deal by the HIGH zinc content. Otherwise it would be a relatively s#itty oil if you think about it honestly. Not a real strong syn-blend without the zinc.
In any event, it certainly makes me wonder if "they" fear the comparison with the Ultra4 or Extra4?
Know of any test data floating out there so I may compare myself?
#98
#99
#100
yeah this winter im going all out...my dad has an escavator (i dont spell good lol) and a backhoe so ive already built a few jumps with them but now wen the big snow comes i will be making massive jumps! i dont have any country roads around here but who cares im going on the roads anyways! but i got holeshots on my 450x and my trx250ex and people say they suck in the snow