I see. Well, I will roll the dice and leave it alone then. Have enough to do with rebuilding the engine. Thanks again

 

When it's ready to fire up after rebuild,bleed the 10mm nut on top of the pump to remove any trapped air. Premix the first tank of gas 50/1 to assist in break in and when at an idle,hold the pump arm up for a couple minutes.This tricks the pump into pumping wide open and gets oil flowing to the cylinder quicker.

 

Ok, will definetely do that. Thanks again for the advice

 

Engine is complete and back on bike. Changed out piston, rings, seals, & bearings. Installed another cdi box & ignition coil. Unplugged all wiring cleaned connectors, placed dielectric grease on the connectors and reinstalled. Have new ground wires on the bike. Put all on this morning and it still does not want to turn over. It acts like it is wanting to but just won't go. Disassembled carb and did a complete clean on it. Installed and know I am getting fuel into piston due to looking at it with a wire camera and the bottom of the plug is wet. Did a compression test and was only reading 90 but I am getting good suction on my hand when placing over the discharge of the carb. Did a check for spark and I have it. Not understanding why this thing will not turn over and run!

 

90 psi is too low!! Did you have the cylinder bored and honed to fit a new oversize piston or just stick a new std piston and rings back on the machine??

 

Cylinder bore was honed. New std piston and rings. My guy who honed it for me stated that I was less than a thousandths out and thought that it would be ok. The ring gap on the new piston head was right at a sixteenth of an inch apart when installed into the bore. Have someone that can bore it out for me so guess I will go up to 73mm.

 

By all means get someone that knows what they're doing.. Rarely ever can you just hone a 2 stroke cylinder and use a stock piston especially one 14 years old. The cylinder needs to be measured first,then order the right over size piston and have a good machine shop ,dealer,etc bore and hone it. No need of going larger than needed as it just wastes future bores and the hp gain is negligible. Here's a good video on cylinders.

 

Have this thing back together and runs like a champ. Seems now that it wants to high idle causing the clutch to engage not letting me put into gear without grinding. Adjusted air and idle screws with no luck. Let it warm up for ten minutes and no change (even during screw(s) adjustment). Wondering if there is an spring adjustment on the clutch spring so it won't grab belt or if this is a throttle cable issue

 

Did you ever replace crank seals? If not that can be a good reason for this. Plus there is an adjustment on the throttle cable at the top of the carb. If you have a lock nut on it,loosen it and turn the cable adjuster in a little,then adjust slack at the thumb throttle.This can take pressure off the carb slide.Still wondering about that 90 psi unless your gauge is off..

 

Crank seals, bearings were replaced when I had it bored out. Compression now running 130. Tomorrow will look at the cable on the carb. Thanks!