1997 Polaris Sport 400cc (NEED SOME MAJOR HELP)
#1
I have a 1997 Polaris sport 400 and the electric start has not worked since I bought it, so I have to pull start it every time to get it to start. It always fires up right on the first pull, but today it snowed here 8" and I went to start it after sitting for 2 days and it still fired right up, it has plenty of oil and gas and everything looks fine but it ran for about 10 seconds and then died. Now I cannot get it to pull start at all, the actual pully will not even come out of the casing. I dont know if the motor has froze up or if the pully mechanism broke. My question is How much if this is the case does it cost to rebuild this particular machine start to finish. and where can I find the best deal on good quality parts for a cheap cost??? Any advice or help would be appreciated. Thanks
#2
It's not that hard to do a top end rebuilt if your good at working with motors etc.. I would suggest the following: Wiseco Piston kit ( go at least .020 over current size) $100.00, cylinder boring averages $45, gaskets top and bottom $35, new wrist bearing, (extras) if you can do it i would take 0.010" off the head, put a 210 main jet, UNI foam air filter and adjust the fuel/air mixture. I did this to my cousin 96 sportsman and it made a huge difference from stock. A bike shop will usually charge $100 to $150 for labor. It sounds like your engine is locked uped but to check your the pull starter all you have to do is move the floor boards out of your way and take the cover bolts off. go to ronnies.com to see a diagram of your pull starter assy.
later
hunt
later
hunt
#3
I had a 96 Explorer (same 400cc engine) that did the same thing. Turned out that the starter drive, (my starter didn't work either), moved itself into the flywheel and made it seem as if the engine locked up. I pulled the right side engine cover off and pushed the drive away from the flywheel. That freed the engine up.
You might try just tapping on the starter a few times, if it is the problem, tapping on it may disengage the drive. It's located under the engine, but you probably already know that.
After that, I found the starter solenoid under the left rear fender, and disconnected the small wire, so that I would not have any chance of hitting the start button and it happening again.
By the way, the starters stop working because they get contaminated with water and rust solid.
You might try just tapping on the starter a few times, if it is the problem, tapping on it may disengage the drive. It's located under the engine, but you probably already know that.
After that, I found the starter solenoid under the left rear fender, and disconnected the small wire, so that I would not have any chance of hitting the start button and it happening again.
By the way, the starters stop working because they get contaminated with water and rust solid.
#4
Jdogg, does it crank at all with the electric starter, or just spin/click? The starter bendix is a common problem. Have you owned this since new? There is a water drain for the recoil housing side of the motor. By pulling that side cover, you can access the starter bendix, and check/ repair your rope/recoil. Have you done a compression check on the motor? That's always a great starting point for judging the condition of the motor. Also this engine has a counterbalancer that requires oil....the sieze if not properly maintained. The dipstick for this is on the case behind the cylinder. Requires large screwdriver, and take the measurement with the threads fully screwed in. Just some starting points.
Ken
Ken
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