I may have developed a bit of a fix for our bump steer problems. I would have to say that I noticed a difference, anyhow...

This is assuming your front end is stock, no experience with anything other than stock....

Remove the OUTER tie rod ends from the steering knuckle, flip them around so they go throught the bottom of the knuckle and the nut is on top, reinstall the nut, and MAKE DAMN SURE YOU USE A NEW COTTER PIN.

This alligns the angle of the a arms more with the angle of the tie rods. There is still a toe change during compression of the suspension, but no where near as much as there was before. It seems to steer smoother and not change direction as much when only one wheel hits a bump.

The only problem I can see here is if the nut comes loose then yout tie rod can fall completely out, but that wont happen if you MAKE DAMN SURE YOU USE A NEW COTTER PIN!! I would appreciate any feedback on this, positve or negative, as I am happy with the feel of the machine, but dont wan't to ruin something if this is a bad idea.

And if LT's came this way from the factory and someone has put mine together wrong, then I apologize for wasting your time.

 

Just make sure they're not limiting your down travel like that or you'll be replacing tie rod ends more often then you like. Sounds like a good idea other than that possible prob.....I'll hafta check it out on my Zilly.

 

wow sweet so you felt a differance, man i will try that tomarrow for sher, and i will till you if i fell a differance to ,thanks for the tip[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

i am gonna try it let me know how it works

 

That is kinda nice how you fixed it in all, but suzuki HAD to put the steering knuckle and the angle of the tie rods the wrong way because the way you have it may solve the problem, but your gonna have to replace those parts more often than anyone else, and it also may cause the tie rods to get extra tension and break if you jump it! For the just of it, its a really good idea, you should email some performance shop and have them try to make some parts that are strong enough to do that, maybe you could get money out of it!!

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86 LT250r
Works performance front and back nitros shocks
Renthal chain and sprockets
Boyesen power reeds
port and polish
answer exhaust(slip-on)
nerf bars

 

Then why does a LT500 have the same tie rod ends, and the same knuckles, and its tie rods are at the same angle as the A arms?

I thik it'll be fine.

 

well dudes i dried it and man what a dif, lot's smoother over the rouph stuff, and it steers lot's sharper, first thing i did was go out and try it in a rocky bolder section type road and man way smoother then before so yea i say that's a tip every lt owner shounld know. thanks for the tip[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

NOT a good idea, at least on my '92. Although it does help correct the geometry, mine was bottoming the rod end out before the arms hit full droop. In other words, if yours acts the same as mine did, you WILL end up with a broken rod end. I am working on a new knuckle design for the 92 ( and whatever year models interchange with the 92) and as soon as I get something that works and is safe, I will share the info so we can all make some and actually go straight through some whoops...............

 

did anyone else have problems with the tie rod ends bottoming out?