Hard starting zilla
Apr 29, 2004 | 06:29 PM
#31
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Hard starting zilla
Well got it bored, got new piston(pro-lite) and got it together, but forgot the DAMNED thrust washers. Do I need them with the pro-lite piston? Also I put the 55cc dome in it. I found what caused the majority of the damage in the cylinder, the retard I bought it from put the reed valve gasket on the wrong side of the reed valve.
Apr 29, 2004 | 06:33 PM
#32
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Hard starting zilla
a wiseco tech told me this about thrust washers:
"if you have thrust washers on the crank pin you dont need them on the wristpin,but if you dont have them on the crank pin then you need them on the wristpin.he said usually in stock form witht the cast pistons they come on the crank pin and the wristpin."
i have them on the crank pin so im not going to put them on the wristpin.thats what broke and screwed up my new top end last time.im putting it togeather tomorrow.
anybody know what thrust washers do??
"if you have thrust washers on the crank pin you dont need them on the wristpin,but if you dont have them on the crank pin then you need them on the wristpin.he said usually in stock form witht the cast pistons they come on the crank pin and the wristpin."
i have them on the crank pin so im not going to put them on the wristpin.thats what broke and screwed up my new top end last time.im putting it togeather tomorrow.
anybody know what thrust washers do??
Apr 29, 2004 | 08:28 PM
#33
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Hard starting zilla
I've always run the thrust washers on the piston wrist pin with both stock type pistons and the Weisco's.
They keep the top on the rod from moving side to side under load. I WOULD NOT try to run without them.
They keep the top on the rod from moving side to side under load. I WOULD NOT try to run without them.
Apr 29, 2004 | 08:29 PM
#34
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Hard starting zilla
Originally posted by: gotmuddy
Well got it bored, got new piston(pro-lite) and got it together, but forgot the DAMNED thrust washers. Do I need them with the pro-lite piston? Also I put the 55cc dome in it. I found what caused the majority of the damage in the cylinder, the retard I bought it from put the reed valve gasket on the wrong side of the reed valve.
Well got it bored, got new piston(pro-lite) and got it together, but forgot the DAMNED thrust washers. Do I need them with the pro-lite piston? Also I put the 55cc dome in it. I found what caused the majority of the damage in the cylinder, the retard I bought it from put the reed valve gasket on the wrong side of the reed valve.
May 4, 2004 | 09:57 AM
#36
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Hard starting zilla
Got it back together again WITH thrust washer's. And I STILL get the same thing, one pop when I try to kick start it. I am beginning to think its timing. The timing on the PVL ignition is adjustable. Which way would I turn it to advance/retard the timing? What do you guys think?
May 4, 2004 | 01:03 PM
#37
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Hard starting zilla
Originally posted by: dissimilar
Duneaddict, regarding your opinions on porting, I'm not sure I completely understand. I realize that largely the cylinder volume determines the window area but is a bore job really going to make a noticeable difference. As far as roof angles, don't most good porters make the cylinder sleeve part of the port windows straight? This wouldn't be important with nicasil cylinders but having the roof of the exhaust port angled (for example) seems like a very bad idea with an old iron sleeve that will inevitably get bored. With my ported cylinder, most of the ports in the sleeve go straight back (no angle) and THEN match the contour. That way, every time my cylinder gets bored, my exhaust height does not change. Also, the windows become a little bigger as the cylinder gets bigger (although not at the same rate).
Is your exhaust port window angled? If so, is it really worth it? Do you see enough additional hp's (with your sleeve at the same angle as the rest of the exhaust) to make it worthwhile?
I had a new sleeve installed before the porting. Now I just had it bored for the first time. If I dyno'd this machine before and after, do you think I have now lost power? Or do you think that there are new, unwanted dips to the curve?
I really don't know these answers so I'm just trying to learn. I never would have guessed that a good port job could become bad simply because the bore became larger.
Thanks
Duneaddict, regarding your opinions on porting, I'm not sure I completely understand. I realize that largely the cylinder volume determines the window area but is a bore job really going to make a noticeable difference. As far as roof angles, don't most good porters make the cylinder sleeve part of the port windows straight? This wouldn't be important with nicasil cylinders but having the roof of the exhaust port angled (for example) seems like a very bad idea with an old iron sleeve that will inevitably get bored. With my ported cylinder, most of the ports in the sleeve go straight back (no angle) and THEN match the contour. That way, every time my cylinder gets bored, my exhaust height does not change. Also, the windows become a little bigger as the cylinder gets bigger (although not at the same rate).
Is your exhaust port window angled? If so, is it really worth it? Do you see enough additional hp's (with your sleeve at the same angle as the rest of the exhaust) to make it worthwhile?
I had a new sleeve installed before the porting. Now I just had it bored for the first time. If I dyno'd this machine before and after, do you think I have now lost power? Or do you think that there are new, unwanted dips to the curve?
I really don't know these answers so I'm just trying to learn. I never would have guessed that a good port job could become bad simply because the bore became larger.
Thanks
Sorry it took me so long to answer.. The difference is whether the cast iron sleeve has been angled to match the port, or not... Some folks might cut the sleeve perpendicular to the bore so future boring has no effect... but I don't feel that's optimal for gas flow.. The down side is the need to clean/adjust the ports every time you have it bored. Do I think it makes a difference? Yes I do... It's amazing what 1mm will do in port timing.
I port my motors for absolute optimum conditions, which means many of the port windows are angled. You asked a very Good question!!!
Merely my opinion...
GMuddy: Don't run the motor without Thrust washers!!!! They are there for a reason..
I wouldn't recomend any timing advance/retard with the 500 motor... line the mark up on the stator and lock it down.
May 4, 2004 | 01:40 PM
#38
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Hard starting zilla
Thrust washer's are in. I will check out the timing. It smelled rich(IMO), will that keep it from kick starting? I dont think it will but hell, I am lost. I will check the timing after lunch.
May 5, 2004 | 01:59 AM
#40
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Hard starting zilla
DO you get the piston to tdc when starting? I just rebuilt my zilla motor, and Since I bought it in a basket, I had to learn how to start it. With mine, cold, I turn the gas and choke on, give it about 4 slow primer kicks get it to tdc, and jump on it. It starts right up everytime.
Remember you cant kick these things over liek a dirtbike.
Remember you cant kick these things over liek a dirtbike.