Well , I got the motor out, and the frame almost completely stipped down, for paint prep,
what I did find is that the steering shaft at the base of the bar mount is tweeked abit,
as well as alittle tweekin goin on at the sub frame very little there.
I was wondering if someone had a stock steering stem that they'd want to part out??
an I need to know if there is a way to tweek that sub frame back to norm ?
Will a collision garage be able to do that or what can I do?
Thank you guys...

 

If you know someone that has a welding torch you could do it your self by heating up the tube and tweeking it back.Of course it depend's on where it's tweeked.Did you chek Fleabay??(EBay)

 

Hey there!
Yeah I've been searchin e-bay like nuts but those 500 parts don't come easy thats for sure.
I've even called salvage yards and nobody has nothin. It's tweeked right where the grab bar
mounts.All the welds I checked and the paint is still on all the joints and welds are fine.
I'm wondering if it's possible to have the steering stem trued at a shop or even better yet
take it to a fabricator and have him make a new one for me and use the bar mounts and
end piece off of this one?
Another thing I was thinking... what if it's possible to have an all new chassis built,by a fabricator
and maybe have it made out of alluminum tubing? I bet if I did have a chassis made at a fabricators
it would cost a fraction of what it would cost coming from Suzuki Corp [which they discontinued]
I was thinkin if I had one made why not shave a few pounds off of it while I'm at it.

 

Making an aluminum Zilla frame would easily cost several thousands. On top of that, aluminum will only take so much fatigue before it fails, where steel does not have 'fatigue history' (don't know if thats the correct term). I read somewhere that Jeremiah Jones broke 5 LRD AL frames last season.

Wanna make it lighter? Find yourself a nice 85-86 rolling chassis and drop the zilla mill in there.

 

You could try Chromoly steel,Make your own foot peg's out of alum.,alum handle bar's,if your going to drag race it only take off the front brake's,make your own rear brake caliper bracket out of alum,chromoly swing arm,Douglas rim's they are lighter then the stock one's,if your not going to mud bog take out the air box and get a K&N filter,Marvin shaw shock's,way lighter then stock,Just a few idea's if you don't want to spend money on another chassis.

 

Mine was a little awry, and I bought a PRM-ATV Baja grab bar and it was crooked once it was bolted on. But me and my cousin being beefy like we are muckled ahold of the grab bar and twisted it until it was straight. I'm betting the previous owner dumped a lot of wheelies by the looks of it.....

 

How bad will the ride be if I leave it the way it is??
Just curious if theres a noticable difference.
I'm bettin that a fabricator can make me a stock chassis and still be less than the factory
price.Maybe not alluminum that was maybe a bad choice to select but , the standard steel
I bet they would'nt charge an arm and leg to do.I don't see why you can still pick up a
250 frame from the factory but you can't get ahold of the 500.
Are you saying that the 500 motor will bolt up to a 250 frame??? I think someone
said that.
Or was someone saying that the 500 came in a rolling chassis form in '85 - '86 ??

 

Yes, with very little modification. The 85-86's are the best choice because they are the lightest. You'll have to widen the front end and extend the swingarm to be able to keep the rubber side down with all that power! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img]

 

BIGGONE, try to get that frame fixed and then take the whole frame to the nearest powder coater and go with a candy blue powder coating. Tell them you want it a little dark so go heavy on the blue. And go with a silver base coat or a gold. A gold base coat might look sweet under the candy blue.