Hi all, I'm in need of the following information.

1. good place to purchase service manual for ski listed in title ('95 King Quad)
2. Carb. specs such as air/fuel mixture screw setting and float height
3. directions for adjusting timing chain
4. is it just me, or is this thing, carb. in particular, a PIA to work on.

Thanks in advance for any help.

 

1. eBay or a Suzuki dealer, if you are wealthy
2. Screw, start at 2 1/2 turns out, then adjust as needed
3. Timing chain self adjusts.
4. The carb is a bit of a chore to weasle out of there. Back off both rubber plenum band screws and it slinks up and out though

 

Thanks for the quick reply. I took the carb. off last night and went through it. I was just looking for anything obvious such as a clogged jet or something. Everything looked good inside, but I couldn't inspect the needle or seat since I couldn't get the float pin to come out. I was afraid to take a punch to it since I've broken a few carb. bodies that way. One thing I did notice is that my air/fuel adjuster was set to 3.5 turns out. I figured this was too much so I adjusted it to 2.5 turns out. My problem beforehand was a heavy black smoke at idle, that would foul plugs. It seems to be a lot better now, but I think I may have it on the lean side now. I rode it about 1 mile last night and the exhaust manifold was glowing red hot right where it exits the head. I figure either the timing is off or I'm running very lean. I didn't think 2.5 turns out on the fuel/air screw would make it run that lean. You have any thoughts?

 

Red manifold means lean. Don't run it that way or you'll burn an exhaust valve. Take out the idle jet and clean it out well. The orfice is so tiny anything can get in there and stop it and then the motor gets idle fuel past the needle, but its not enough and you idle hot as hell.

Red exhaust manifold after a run isn't an idle problem though. Your mid and high circuits are out of whack. carb needs major cleaning and checking over. Stock main jet is a 122. Float level should be exactly one inch (25.4 mm) +- 1 mm measured with carb upside down from the bowl flange to the bottom of the float. Your floats may be sticking sometimes if the black smoke thing is happening. Then again a red pipe is lean-out. There is a poltergeist in that carb. You may need some chicken blood and a clairvoyant.

 

I didn't think that the idle mixture screw would affect anything other than the idle mixture. I guess it would have a slight effect up past idle but very little. It's at 2.5 turns out right now. The four wheeler seems to run pretty good. I only noticed the red exhaust manifold at night. It's not really noticeable during the day. All circuits and jets were clear that I could see with the bowl removed. The only item on the carb. that was not removed is the constant velocity slider and diagphram. Is there a jet under the diagphram cover that I should inspect as well. Maybe I didn't hook up the hoses to the carb. right. The only hoses in question are the two that hook up to the front of the carb. and seem to go to the gas tank or petcock area. Or maybe this is a petcock problem. One last thing: is there a trick to adjusting the air/fuel mixture with the carb. in place? I can't seem to get anything in there to turn that screw. Thanks for your help.

 

<I didn't think that the idle mixture screw would affect anything other than the idle mixture.>
Yes, exactly. That's what I was saying, perhaps awkwardly. If the pipe is red at all after a period of idling then you are too lean. The motor might be prone to backfiring as well. If it doesn't get red pipe after a few minutes idling when seen at dusk, and it sounds good then you're probably good on the idle circuit.
If you meant that the pipe is red immediatly after a ride then it sounds like your intermediate circuit is too lean. This not only makes the exhaust valve hot but makes the motor prone to detonation, which in turn erodes the top of the piston. Obviously not good.
If the jetting and motor are stock then this ought to be appropriate, which means maybe you should consider raising the needle a notch or two. To do this you take the slide off the throttle cable and under the spring on the slide body is the needle seat, where the needle is held in place by a clip. There are five grooves for the clip to sit in. Usually the factory setting is the middle groove. Moving the clip up toward the end makes the needle lower and the midrange leaner and conversely moving the clip down raises the needle relative to the slide and enriches the air fuel mix in the throttle middle range. In the middle throttle positions the fuel is slurped through the main jet and past the tapered needle to mix with the amount of air allowed by the slide position. Obviously the higher the needle is relative to the slide, the more gasoline mixes with the air. At full throttle the needle is right out of the way and the slide is too, so the air-fuel mix is regulated solely by the main jet size.
When you go for a ride I doubt you are at full throttle all the time, so try raising the needle to rich up the intermediate throttle.
That or then consider a bigger main jet, which will richen up both. The number is stamped on the bottom of the jet as seen from the float chamber. Some models LTF4WD have a 120 jet stock, some, I think yours, has a 122. Maybe try a jet two numbers higher if you still have red pipe syndrome after raising the needle. They're cheap. A good way to judge how your fuel mix is working is to read the plug.
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/spkplghnbook.htm#We

If your black smoke thing has gone away since you cleaned the carb then you almost have it licked. I use a tiny slotted stubby to set the idle mix screw. It is a tricky one to get to. Sounds like yours isn't needing any more fiddling with though.

ps. The two hoses on the front do the same thing, swapping them does nothing adverse. Make sure they're on both ends though as anything open contributes to an overly lean running condition. Make sure you aren't leaking air anywhere in the intake tract, like where it bolts to the head. You can do this by taking a can of spray brake cleaner and using the little straw sprits a tiny bit of it at any suspected spot of leakage with the motor idling. If there is leakage the motor will stumble and stall. Doesn't hurt anything. If there is no leak it just evaporates in no time.

 

I'll look into it more as time permits and get back to you with the results. Thanks again

 

I think that '95 king quad Float Height spec. is 13mm +or- 1mm and the stock jet needle is a (5D40) and should be in the 4th clip pos. from the top.

 

I had to check again, and yes, I was wrong. When I flopped my service manual out and looked at the carb section it listed the specs I gave, but at the top it says those are for a 24 MM Mikuni! I should have looked up the '95 specs in the back of the book. The '95 has a BST31SS.
The factory service manual lists these for the '95 King Quad:
Main Jet 122.5
Jet Needle 5D67 clip in 3rd notch
Float Level 13 +- 1/2 mm
Pilot screw 2 7/8 turns out

Sorry for the wrong steer.

Thanks busakiller, and you're right, the first time I took the carb apart I found the needle clip in the 4th ring, and I bought the bike new.

 

Hey guys, new to the board..

I recently bought a 95 King Quad (3000 miles on it) for hunting and it ran great for awhile. Lately though, it backfires when deccelerating, and has been difficult to start . I changed the spark plug and cap, drained the tank and carb for any possible moisture from condensation, and put gas line antifreeze in it. Same thing happened, and my bro in law says the valves may need adjusting.

Would you guys perhaps be able to tell me a little bit more, such as how frequently you need to do this valve adjustment and what the specs are, ie. -10 thou out or whatever. Also, How many turns from screwed right in is the idle adjust screw supposed to be set at ? Do you think I should install the optional cooling fan on it? Any info would be helpful as I live in Northern Ontario and the nearest Suzuki dealer is a good distance away.

Thanks in advance, and happy riding;-)