I just got through the 10 hour break-in period (per suzuki instructions)on the 500 auto. changed oil and filter. The other day I started to notice a burning oil smell once the engine is warmed up to normal temp and given some throttle. There is no (noticable) blue smoke coming from the exhaust pipe and there are no leaks that i can find (looked the engine over good). It is not noticeable when idling only when given some throttle then its very noticeable. Has anybody else experienced this? Will call the dealer to get his opinion also. Its still under warranty so not an issue right now but would hate to get a year down the road and find that the engine needs an overhaul. Thanks for the input everyone!

 

make sure the level is not to high causing blow by.

 

hey, wat are u soppose to do after the ten hour break-in im at like 9 hours and im jsut curious because i should get ther by tomorow

 

At ten hours you should change the oil and filter, check the valve clearances Intake .002-.004" Exhaust .007-.009" (cold engine). When changing the oil remove the skid plate and remove the oil screen which is located on the bottom of the engine. You need to remove the 4 small bolts that hold the screen cover on and remove the screen to clean it which is held in by 2 philips screws. when reinstalling the cover lightly grease the O-ring first. And dont overtighten the screws or something will break. The valves take a little time to do you need to remove the gas tank and get the front plastic up and out of your way which requires removing the front rack. The timing mark on the flywheel has to be lined up with the small pointer that is marked in the timing inspection plug which is located (as your sitting on the atv) on the left hand side of the engine in front of the pull start rope (remove with a allen wrench). Removing the spark plug makes for easier alignment of the timing mark. This will give you top dead center which is where you need to be before you can check or adjust the valves. I used a feeler gage and bent the last 1/2 inch or so of several different sizes (makes it easier to slide in the gap). Or you can purchase the valve adjustment tool (makes the job much easier). If you need to adjust either the intake or exhaust valves I found what worked best for me was to use a feeler blade two sizes larger than the final gap that I wanted. For example; when I adjusted the Intake valves I loosened up the adjuster and slid a .006" blade in the gap and lightly snugged the adjuster to it. Once I tightened up the adjuster lock nut the end gap measured in at .003" This is because the adjuster will turn with the lock nut slightly when tightening the lock nut. This is where the tool makes life much easier it allows you to set the gap and tighten the lock nut with out changing the position of the adjuster.....It's on my Christmas list [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] The exhaust valves are a little harder to get at, being more forward on the engine with the frame in the way. Those were fine on my vinson (didnt have to adjust). It takes a little time but it should be done. Just remember when tightening ANY engine bolts or screws not to OVERTIGHTEN them, or $$$$$$$$ Hope this helps, if you have any questions just give a yell!

 

hmm i never removed that screen, but seems ok , being i have the fastest vinson here.

just change the oil, and do the valves, dont forget you might get a little blowby the motor is seating everything, do those things, and it will run forever.

 

When I pulled the screen on the Vinson (first oil change) I did find crap left over from mfg, and initial break in. I dont clean it very often after the first and second oil change....maybe every thousand miles or so.