Hey all,

I purchased the Noss Machine Billet Flange and UNI Filter.


After i FINALLY got the filter to stay on (The the filter doesn't go down far enough on the flange, and when you tighten the band down it slips the filter off the flange)


Now when i give it a quick rev in nutral, i get a small back fire when the RPM's are comming down.

Does that mean it is running to lean with the new filter on?

How do you tell if it is running too lean?


I sprayed the filter inside and out, and rubbed the oil in, then sprayed it a 2nd time, and rubed it then, then took a rage and dabbed off the extra.. That's the correct way to do it right? Are you suppose to take the outer 'pre-filter' off and spray oil under it?

Thanks,

-ThaChad

 

Popping on decel can be a lean condition, you might try backing out the fuel screw a 1/2 turn and see if that makes any diff.

 

Manufacturers jet lean at the factory, to meet emissions standards. And the new filter flows better than the stock one, so the backfire on deceleration means it is now even more lean. When the throtle closes, there isn't enough air to ignite the fuel in the combustion chamber, so it gets expelled into the exhaust where it does have enough air, and it explodes. You might want to just wait, and do your filter, airbox lid, and new Christmas pipe, all together at the same time, along with just one rejet.

The Noss setup uses a UNI POD filter. (Yeah, oil the filter and wrap, seperately.) I used the POD on the Alba adapter for a while, but had the same experience, ie. it wouldn't stay put! Not worth the chance of toasting a motor!

I HIGHLY recommend the Pro-Flow! They absolutely have the system down! Their UNI filter is HUGE, and has a lot of surface area (way more than the POD). There is a basket inside, but it isn't at all restrictive (like on a stock Honda). The mount has a flange, and it clicks into a groove in the filter. REALLY SLICK!

My advice would be to return the Noss and tell them it isn't reliable. Then spend the extra $30 for the slick Pro-Flow!

 

What does "POD" stand for? So you are basically saying that all the filters that mount to the flange like that, will have the same problem?



Is the Pro-Flow filter 2 seperate pieces like this one?

Thanks,

-ThaChad

 

Could you not just keep the choak turned on just a little bit to restrict the flow so it doesn't run soo lean untill i get it rejetted?

Thanks,

-ThaChad

 

POD stands for pod, like the pod on a pea plant. A POD filter is cut from a single block of foam, not glued together. It is therefore stronger than the other filters, but being thick and dense, doesn't flow as well as UNI's regular 2 stage filters.

No, it isn't that POD's have any particular trouble staying on, it's that it is just darn hard to find a perfect fit when you are trying to cob something together.

The UNI that comes with the Pro-Flow is two stage. They also incluse a very course "wrap" (3rd stage), for extreme conditions.

 

I've sold hundreds of these setups but haven't had anyone else have trouble getting the filter to stay on. The flange works with either a K&N or a UNI but the UNI doesn't fit all the way to the front of the flange since the rubber part of the filter isn't as deep as it is on the K&N filter. Did it try to come all the way off or just slide back some when the clamp was tightened?

If there is a problem with it, please give me a call. Customer satisfaction is paramount to me.

-David

 

Hey David,

When I tightened down the clamp, the filter just slid off the flange. I think it could have partly been oil on the rubber, causing it to be slippery..

The other obvious problem of course is that the UNI filter does sit toward the edge of the flange and doesn't go all the way down. That of course Is not your fault!

Your Flange looks to be very well made. Solid.

Only thing i need to do is get my pipe and rejet this bad boy. The filter isn't that big of a problem, and doesn't need to be cleaned too often because i don't get it real dirty..


-ThaChad