In looking through the internet for a fix, I came across this incredible website. First off, I am not an ATV or auto mechanic, but have a little bit of mechanical ability. My question arises from the 1993 Suzuki LT80 I have. I presently cannot get it started. My son was riding it in a beach (sand) environment, and had problems with the engine idling when he stopped. I adjusted the idle (screw on the carburator) to where it would run while in a stopped position. As my son continued to ride, the LT80 finally stopped running completely, and would not start with the electric starting mechanism. I towed the machine back to camp and thought that we were dealing with a spark problem. I pulled the spark plug and saw the most carbon coroded spark plug I have ever seen in my life. There was a chunk of carbon that must of been 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch in size. I cleaned the spark plug and tested it for spark. I still got a spark, but could not get the machine started. I deadlined the machine until we could get a new spark plug.

After installing a new spark plug, I still could not get the engine to start. There was still a spark when testing, but the spark plug end had some foreign substance when pulling it out of the head. The battery would crank over, but I could not get it started. Since I continued to have a spark, I figured that it was a fuel problem associated with the carburator. I went through the many lines associated with the carburator, and could not find anything that blocked these lines. I drained the carburator and saw that it filled up again when trying to start the machine.

Any ideas on what else I should try before finally breaking down and spending the big bucks to take it to the dealer?

 

I had a similar problem with my LT50. What others told me to do was tear apart the carb and clean it real good. It sounds like the float is stuck. I did exactly this and the thing started with minimal effort. If you're like me and hesitate to attack projects like this, I bought the repair manual from Rocky Mountain for $31 and it saved me. Hopefully, this is all it is...the project was rather easy once started.

 

I have a new LT 80 [2005] and this thing is a PIG!---I can run faster than this thing goes..I took out the restrictor plate in the exaust and its still a PIG!--Its going back to the shop for warrrenty..

 

pull the carb off and clean it and you might as well put a new needle and seat in it. while the carb is off clean the air filter.

 

Welcome to the forums! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
I agree with the cleaning of the carb. Sounds like a jet is plugged.
If it's still a no-go, do a compression test.

 

Thanks for the info on the carb and the service manual. I initially hesitate at pulling the carb and off and tearing into it, I did this once with an automotive carb and could not get the thing back together without help, due to all the springs and such. I imagine that this service manual would have close to a step by step list on what to do and not do? I also assume that with the smaller carb I would not have as much trouble as my first and only experience with carbs.

If I am going to tear into the carb, and as suggested by Trailblazer, I might and well replace whatever I can inside it. Do they sell a carb rebuild kit for the carb on the LT80, or would I have to indivually purchase the pieces? I might as well have the parts on hand when I get the carb torn apart. Also, any ideas on where I would buy the carb parts? I am planning on ordering the service manual from rocky mountain atv as suggested, but could not find any carb parts on their web site?

After installing the new spark plug, trying to start the ATV, and pulling the plug again, I still see loose carbon on the spark plug. I am guessing that it is pretty gummed up in the cylinder head. Any ideas on how to clean all this gunk out without pulling the head. The only thing that I could think of was trying to start it with the spark plug removed? Thanks again for all the help.

 

I've never had to replace anything in a carb. Course, I've only seen a hundred or so.
FYI: there is a black rubber piece in there. Leave that out.It's not needed and sometimes gets crushed against the jet during the installation of the fuel bowl.
There is no springs or such to loose or mis-place. It's easyer than you suspect. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Sounds good. I like the idea of not having to replace anything, and no springs or little screws to lose. So remove the black rubber piece, and clean the heck of of it with carb cleaner? Any other tricks you have picked up when removing and cleaning a carb? Thanks again for all the help.

 

I like to remove both jets to clean as opposed to just blowing them out in place.
Remove the float pin. Then remove the very little phillips head screw and pull out the needle seat.Make sure that passage is clean and put it all back together.
I use silicone gasket stuff and silicone the carb o-ring into the black spacer that is behind the carb.It tends to fall out during installation of the carb if not siliconed in.
You'll be allright. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Thanks again for all the help. I can't wait to get home and tear that thing apart now.