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85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.

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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 01:04 AM
  #11731  
MIsuzukilt230s's Avatar
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From: Millington, MI
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I see where you're coming from now, more bite, which I don't need. Thanks for the insight randy!
 
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 01:13 AM
  #11732  
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No problem and glad to help! Talking these things out sometimes helps me figure out what I wanna do next. I working on a set of chains for the truck right now. They seem to work pretty well for this guy:




And look at all the mud this guy is throwin
 
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 01:18 AM
  #11733  
MIsuzukilt230s's Avatar
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From: Millington, MI
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You making up a set of chains or looking to buy a set?
 
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 01:36 AM
  #11734  
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Well I found a set in the barn when I moved in, but they're a little small for my truck tires, so I'm making them longer. I figure no mud tire I can drive on the road is going to give the traction of chains and after seeing how sucky TSLs are in the mud, chains might be my only option lol. Chains seem like the perfect solution to a lot of problems.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2012 | 09:27 AM
  #11735  
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From: SO ILL
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thick paint shouldnt be a problem on metal as long as you let the layers dry completely. The problem with your paint peeling was that it was on plastic. paint doesnt stick to plastic worth a darn. not even krylon fusion, and thats what its made for. the thinner the paint layer the better on plastic is my experience
 
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Old Oct 6, 2012 | 09:43 AM
  #11736  
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It is fusion paint... or rustoleum equivalent. And I scuffed the plastic well... you can see the scuffs are deep. The 250ex in the pics is painted with regular paint (with the sparkles). Its sticks fine if the coat is thin. The thicker parts peel off.

I have the same trouble with metal. I just repainted my trailer receiver hitch that had a large chunk delaminate (factory paint job). Metal and polymer expand at different rates due to temps, I suspect that causes delamination. Vibration probably doesn't help. It seems you don't want paint to form a "layer" and have its own properties apart from the surface its attached, or it will loose cohesion.

I have some overspray white cheapass paint from walmart that got on my bed liner. I suspect that will stick forever. If I had tried to paint my bed liner, it would have peeled off for sure lol
 
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Old Oct 7, 2012 | 01:05 PM
  #11737  
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lol no doubt. I used the Krylon fusion on the grille section of my 230 to paint it black. i put it on pretty thick and wish i hadnt. Its holding up fine in the areas where it doest rub anything, and i dont ride it all that much so it still looks good. but the stuff flaked right off where i had some zip ties holding it down at the two top holes and at the bottom where i have bolts
 
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 03:48 PM
  #11738  
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Hi everyone. I was out in the trail yesterday and i was soaked. But my netrel light was like half dimmed then i turned it off and nothing. I got no lights no reacton from the starter nothing. I checked my battery and i am getting good voltage 12.73 is what it averaged at. The motor does turn over if i skip the neutral relay. I dont know what the problem is and i was wondering what i shuld check. And i am positive the fuse is good
I will be on another hour or so.
Thanks
 
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Old Oct 9, 2012 | 10:47 PM
  #11739  
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I've got some good news for everyone who is planning on installing lt250s a-arms on an lt230. Its a pain in the butt when it comes to figuring out what bearings to use. Spherical bearings are the best and need the least attention, but you also need to be able to use seals and keep the a-arms in place and alligned. I first went with some cheap chinese ball bearings for $5 for 10 bearings, this route will work, but wont last you a lifetime since they are made in china. Guess what, kfx700 bearings are a perfect fit. One side of the a-arm has a needle bearing and the other side has a spherical heim joint. This keeps the a-arm aligned plus the needle bearing gives it a good clean motion. And guess what, the bearings are cheap as hell. For two a-arms, it costs about $50 bucks for a nice set of bearings and thats for the full a-arm kit, not just bearings and seals, it comes with the shaft, bearings, seals, spacers, everything, the bearings and seals alone for the lt250s are $75 plus you probably need new shafts which would probably run you another $100 plus there is nothing stopping your a-arm from moving from side to side on the shaft and needle bearing. No one buy anything just yet, cause everything is in the mail (bearings are) and I'm going to do some further testing. Should know in about a week. For know, I need a measurement from everyone else since my atv is not with me for a while. I need the measurement of the width of the inside of the a-arm mount, where the a-arm bolts up. So the width of where the a-arm slides in. Just one mount measurement is needed. Thanks guys!
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 09:45 AM
  #11740  
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I got it. There was a bad ground and a corroded wire.
 
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