85 to 88 Suzuki LT230S Quadsport help.
#1581
My switch is goofy. I have the lights that slide up n down (yellow), the kill that slides left n right (red), and a starter button at the bottom (black). Maybe I could hook the kill to the starter button and have a push button kill like mjlar. Yeah, I think I'll do that,,,, cool.
#1582
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: mjlar94
And the solid black and black /white stripe'd wires should all be bolted to the mounting bolt holding the regulator..correct?
If thats it and the grey wire just splices withthe grey switch and orange mag wire I'm all set.</end quote></div>
That sounds about right.
And the solid black and black /white stripe'd wires should all be bolted to the mounting bolt holding the regulator..correct?
If thats it and the grey wire just splices withthe grey switch and orange mag wire I'm all set.</end quote></div>
That sounds about right.
#1583
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: mjlar94
Thats why I'm going to buy that switch, that way you can cut the voltage right at the bars and keep the wiring simple..
Can someone take a picture of this "switch" besides the one I have?
I dont have a key or anything. Just a high low run/kill
I would just buy a switch at walmart but I need ti to be insulated, I dont want to cross a stream when im trail riding and have the lighting coil ground out raw and then its junk..</end quote></div>
I was just saying about walmart because I was trying to get my point across that the orange needs a switch, any switch.
Do you want your lights on all the time? Or have them turn on and off? Because, with the switch you have, you can only do it one of the two ways.
Thats why I'm going to buy that switch, that way you can cut the voltage right at the bars and keep the wiring simple..
Can someone take a picture of this "switch" besides the one I have?
I dont have a key or anything. Just a high low run/kill
I would just buy a switch at walmart but I need ti to be insulated, I dont want to cross a stream when im trail riding and have the lighting coil ground out raw and then its junk..</end quote></div>
I was just saying about walmart because I was trying to get my point across that the orange needs a switch, any switch.
Do you want your lights on all the time? Or have them turn on and off? Because, with the switch you have, you can only do it one of the two ways.
#1586
Your the man! Thanks! I did figure it out
I scanned the quad sport wiring diagram..
I was trying to hack up the clymer diagram to implement a 12v relay so I can use the K & S Switch (1 switch for everything) .. but i dont know the output of the k&S! I'll show you waht I plan on doing I still have switch wiring to clear up and I'm not 100% sure if it will work.
http://img135.imageshack.us/my...mage=lt230soemne1.gif
http://img135.imageshack.us/my.php?image=lt230syc1.gif
I scanned the quad sport wiring diagram..
I was trying to hack up the clymer diagram to implement a 12v relay so I can use the K & S Switch (1 switch for everything) .. but i dont know the output of the k&S! I'll show you waht I plan on doing I still have switch wiring to clear up and I'm not 100% sure if it will work.
http://img135.imageshack.us/my...mage=lt230soemne1.gif
http://img135.imageshack.us/my.php?image=lt230syc1.gif
#1587
You seem good with wiring, any concerns? The only thing im worried about is the possible spike the relay takes, but I think it will be a double edged sword, the lights will shut off when you idle, keeping load off the motor at idle (under 12v)
#1588
it seems complicated to me. Relays aren't that reliable either. How is pin# 85 going to get juice? The orange wire? Its much safer and easier to just hook the regulator into the lights so they all come on at once. No need to take a chance that the lights come on w/o the regulator if the relay fails.
Btw, those relays are a dime a dozen. You can find them on any junk car. I have a box full of them, not sure why, but maybe someday I find a use for them.
Usually relays are only used under high voltage applications so you dont get the **** shocked out of you when you flip a switch. My fog lights on my bayou has 2 relays. I feel like a crap shoot if the lights will come on when I flip the switch. Most of the time they do, sometimes I have to tap the relay to get it to work.
Also, you need a 1 or 2 amp fuse between pin 85 and the voltage source because that coil of wire inside the relay can burn up easy if it gets too many amps.
Just remember you never want the lights to come on w/o the regulator.
Btw, those relays are a dime a dozen. You can find them on any junk car. I have a box full of them, not sure why, but maybe someday I find a use for them.
Usually relays are only used under high voltage applications so you dont get the **** shocked out of you when you flip a switch. My fog lights on my bayou has 2 relays. I feel like a crap shoot if the lights will come on when I flip the switch. Most of the time they do, sometimes I have to tap the relay to get it to work.
Also, you need a 1 or 2 amp fuse between pin 85 and the voltage source because that coil of wire inside the relay can burn up easy if it gets too many amps.
Just remember you never want the lights to come on w/o the regulator.
#1589
Talking to everyone out there... If your quad has lights that come one all the time and you can never shut them off, I would still suggest hooking it up like my diagram and just using either the high or low beam only. That way, when you flip your switch to low beam, the lights go off,,, and when you flip it to high beam, the lights come on.
1hp = 746 watts. So, running the lights all the time takes 1/16 hp. Why would you want to do that? I know 1/16hp isnt a lot, but why waste it? Who needs low beam anyway?
1hp = 746 watts. So, running the lights all the time takes 1/16 hp. Why would you want to do that? I know 1/16hp isnt a lot, but why waste it? Who needs low beam anyway?
#1590
I just got the instructions for the switch at Dennis Kirk. Good customer support over there, ****.
Anyways here are the pinouts on the switch, turns out I wont need a relay, as I can use the tail light output for the rectifier (or splice for both if I were using both)
Heres the pinouts on the 21-0885 K & S Switch putting everything all in one:
Color Wire ---- Type of Terminal ---- Function
Blue --------------- Female ------------ Tail Light (direct to rectifier)
Red ---------------- Male --------------- Power (To Orange)
Yellow ------------- Female ------------ Headlight High (to ..yellow I think?)
Green ------------- Female ------------ Headlight Low (to ..white?)
White -------------- Male --------------- Kill Sw (to Black/yellow)
Black -------------- Female ------------ Kill Sw (to frame)
Thats alot easier and cleaner than wires all over the ATV bars..
Anyways here are the pinouts on the switch, turns out I wont need a relay, as I can use the tail light output for the rectifier (or splice for both if I were using both)
Heres the pinouts on the 21-0885 K & S Switch putting everything all in one:
Color Wire ---- Type of Terminal ---- Function
Blue --------------- Female ------------ Tail Light (direct to rectifier)
Red ---------------- Male --------------- Power (To Orange)
Yellow ------------- Female ------------ Headlight High (to ..yellow I think?)
Green ------------- Female ------------ Headlight Low (to ..white?)
White -------------- Male --------------- Kill Sw (to Black/yellow)
Black -------------- Female ------------ Kill Sw (to frame)
Thats alot easier and cleaner than wires all over the ATV bars..


