A quote from http://www.dansmc.com/gaskets.htm


Is there a time to use gasket cement ? Yes indeed. If there is a gouge or nick in the sealing surface, it will need to be filled in gasket cement. Sometimes no gasket is called for and the two parts are sealed with a gasket cement. There are many types out there. Get several that are sold in your area and see which one you like. I prefer the non hardening kind and I don't like any of the silicon seal types. The silicon seal types tend to ball up inside the engine and come loose plugging the oil screens and choking off the oil flow... not good. I really like YamaBond #4. It's a gray gooey cement used to join the crankcase halves of Yamaha 2/strokes. It doesn't ball up. Any excess inside the engine seems to flatten out and sticks to the side of the crankcases. I use it for any metal to metal sealing jobs where there is no gasket. I use it even if another sealant is called for because it works so well. Works good with gaskets too. You can get it from Yamaha. I don't use the silicon seal stuff at all. Not any brand... too many baaad experiences !

 

Well, I drilled a 1/8th in hole opposite of the oil pump spout on the rocker box cover.. That way no matter what, oil pools into the cam lobes area, which is where this problem is coming from. WTF is the cam bearing..lol can u draw a big red arrow to show me how dumb i was..?

 

 

Ok... so heres my modifications.. I may need another valve cover to do this right a second time..
http://img233.imageshack.us/my...ge=lt230oilmodiu0.jpg

http://img233.imageshack.us/my...ge=lt230oilingwu6.jpg


Now I dont know why i cant post imageshack photos like u guys but heres the problem I noticed with the oiling system and why my cam is almost junk, and why they ALWAYS end up ticking eventually. THERE IS NO DIRECT OILING TO THE CAM LOBES! the oiling system feed sits over the cam sprocket!

What I've done is drilled a small 1/8th in hole and stepped the hole a little deeper so it can channel to my oil passage. 1/8th in should be enough for oil to "trickle" yet not clog and let the cam lobes bathe. My only concern at this point is oil pressure, will the pump push enough pressure to lube the cam lobes.

This is a great modification if you have an angle drill, just tap it to the oil feed.. I don't which is why I'll be looking for another valve cover in the meantime.. and buy yet 2 more rockers (~60 bucks..)

 

Dont the cam lobes have holes in them for the oil to come out?

 

What forces the oil to go through the cam? o0

 

thanks for the post.. I sourced a guy local who has front calipers for a 230 for fourty dollars.. So I would guess thats a good deal. Also I have an exhaust system that they gave me so I will try that out I guess.

Any more help or info from you guys could help. Is there an online downloadable manual that I can begin to put this beast back together.

 

Give me a heads up I have a scanner, you may want to consider what I have just posted about when putting the motor together... It will pay off when you dont have to keep taking it apart- and from my perspective will make it MUCH more reliable.

 

I managed w/o a manual for almost a yr. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] Actually, most of the reason I bought the manual was for somekinda sentimental/collecter reason (and I was curious about a few things).

Anyway, during that yr I bored it out .080 over and all the basic head work and put a new carb and stator on it. I asked the guy at the suzuki shop for head bolt torque and I asked here what the valve specs were (like 10000000 posts ago...). I guess it depends on how much mechanic stuff you know or how well you like puzzles. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

Oh, forgot to answer the question.... I have never seen a downloadable manual for the 230.... Was looking a long time.... There's not a link to one in this thread anyway!